new guy, next time just use Turf Builder without weed control. Then if you need weed control, you can use something like liquid Weed-B-Gone about 2 weeks after using the fertilizer. By spot spraying only the weeds, you don't have as much herbicide around the yard. One of the issues with the broadcast herbicide and pets is the pets get it on their feet and bring it into the house. Since there are no soil microbes in the house to decompose the herbicide, it builds up on the carpet and floor. At least that describes the issue. Whether it is a cause for concern depends on which research you read. Are you watering no more than once per week and mowing at the mower's highest setting? That usually is plenty to keep weeds out of the yard.

I get frost middling-October, and we're exactly in the right window for KBG. You have a week, easily, and two if you push it. I don't advise pushing it if you don't absolutely have to, but fortunately you can seed very quickly post-Round Up. >>Fertilizer- Is your opinion that I don't need any fertilizer application at the time of seeding? Edit: My reading comprehension slipped a little there. You were just referring to organic matter application. Neither is absolutely required, but I don't object to a one-time application of starter fertilizer with the seed. You may not need it, but it isn't going to do an enormous amount of damage, either. >>As for topdressing, I've got the hint from others that a topdressing isn't completely necessary but surely I need something on top of the seed on the slope, no? While not strictly necessary (it's helpful and it's good insurance against drying out, but...), slopes may require a little something to hold things in place. Compost has good mass and doesn't move easily, so that's always a good choice on a hefty slope. Peat is very light, but for shallow slopes it'll do fine. Known erosion areas benefit from having burlap over the top. You can put the burlap down right on the seed and soil, or atop a compost or peat moss top dressing. In any case, 1/4" of coverage is the absolute maximum (burlap can go atop that as you're going to remove it anyway).

I currently use urea/potassium chloride/ triple super phosphate/ferrous sulfate which I buy in bulk and mix for price savings, but previously I used Lesco 24-0-11 from HD (it's a 50# bag for about $35 and has 3% iron) and also Scotts Green Max. They're about 50% fast release, 50% slow release which works great. The Lesco starter is top notch as well. I would recommend that you use iron for enhanced color, either as part of the fertilizer mix like the Lesco or as a supplemental application in the form of Ironite or ferrous sulfate if you can find it.

Most bermuda seed projects start far too early while the soil is too cool. Mature bermuda can take high nitrogen every month of the growing season. For this year you could use an organic fertilizer once a month (or less) instead of the high N chemical fert. That will keep it in good condition and help your soil for the rest of the year. Starting next year you can go to the frequent high N applications but at least one of those apps should be organic to keep your soil from getting "stale." Stale isn't the right word, really. When a lawn has had no organic fertilizer for years and years, it can take more and more chemical fertilizer to keep the lawn green. However, with one application of organics the soil seems to restart and the chemical fert requirements go back to normal. That's why I always suggest once a year to use an organic. You can use something like Milorganite, Espoma, or a grain type fertilizer like soybean meal, alfalfa pellets, corn meal, corn gluten meal, or whatever ground up nut, bean, or seed you can find in 50-pound bags at the feed store. The application rate is 15-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet.