You also get the wisdom of the ages and people who might not have the same experiences. The advice I gave is based on years (and years) of reading and moderating forums for amateurs and professionals. Applying fertilizer on Memorial Day might be too late in your area due to the onset of summer heat, but as a starting point, it is a very easy date to remember. Whether you get disease or not depends also on grass variety, air circulation, dew, humidity, soil type, and other factors. I'm not sure why Georgia would be much different from other places where the taller grasses are the healthier ones. At the same time that the wisdom of the ages sounds like a good idea, you also get the senility of the aged. Tupersan is relatively new to my repertoire of garden products. I became 100% organic before I heard of it and seem to have a block about that product. In general I don't put any faith in preemergent herbicides but people I respect tell me they work. I do recall from my relatively recent reading that Tupersan works as tiemco says. Professional grass growers (livestock producers) fertilize with 1/4 of their annual nitrogen in the spring, and they always apply it after the initial flush of green growth has ended. They apply 3/4 of the annual nitrogen in the fall. They do it this way to minimize their mowing workload and to spread the productive growth along throughout the entire growing season. The wisdom of the ages here at GardenWeb also agrees with tiemco that combination fertilizer/weed killer products are not going to do what you expect them to do and it is better to use different products for the different requirements. Yes Mother Nature has Her own ideas about watering, but for what you do, you do not have to encourage weeds. Far too many people set their sprinkler to operate for 10 minutes every day. That schedule is going to germinate every seed in the garden. You have control over your own watering. Allowing the soil surface to dry out as much as you can will develop deep, drought resistant roots as well as minimize weed seed germination.

I'll take a stab at it and hopefully the experts will come help as well. Overall the plan sounds pretty good to me. Much better than just laying down some weed and feed and hoping for magic :) My first suggestion would be to figure out what type of grass you have. Either through the internet or by digging up a clump and taking it to a local nursery (finding a good, local nursery is worth its weight in gold 10 times over!). In fact you could pull every type of weed and I'm sure your nursery could identify and suggests a solution for you! Then I would get a soil sample. You can opt for the extensive ones through your county or just buy a cheap one on amazon. This will give you a general ideal of where your at as far as soil conditions go. While your grabbing your soil sample look at your thatch build up and soil density. Always good to see if your yard just needs to be thatched and aerated so the grass can actually receive nutrients to grow! Good luck!

Synthetics are things like Scott's or Vigoro (although both companies also make organic fertilizers). They're usually white or white with bright green bits, and generally get applied in the 3 to 6 pound per thousand square feet range. These fertilizers are (usually) salt based (although urea can also be used, which isn't a salt). Urea itself is a crossover. It's an organic molecule, but in use the amounts that go down and the general strength is more in the synthetic range. Blood meal would also fall into this range. Neither urea nor blood meal enhance the soil as classical organics would. Organics are Milorganite, grains, feather meal, and so on. Colors vary, and the amounts applied generally range from 10 to 20 pounds per thousand square feet. Which one to use is always an interesting argument. Properly applied, there's nothing wrong with a synthetic, but it's wise to keep a closer eye on your soil chemistry when feeding synthetically. They'll tend to deplete your soil a little more than organics will, leading to a see-saw effect. Organics are a lot more wide open, although soil testing is also a good idea. Although I gave optimal dates for correct feeding, there's really no wrong time to apply organics (except maybe on frozen ground). If you want to feed now, organic is your only option--it's too early for synthetics and they'd be an additional stress on the lawn. Overseeding is done when daytime temperatures are just dropping off their summer highs, to about three weeks later. For you, that's in a week or so, all the way through very early September.

You most likely have a mix of fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, possibly rye, and some weeds. I would water that with an oscillator sprinkler that has an adjustable spread on it. Set it up to be in the center of the lawn and sweep from phone box by the road to the other end. It will take hours and hours to get deep watering done, but deep is deep. My oscillator takes 8 hours to put out an inch. You may only have to water once every 2-3 weeks when you do it that deep. When you renovate, do you want to kill everything that's there? That's about the only way to make a pure KBG lawn. Here's the general nature of how that goes. Change to daily watering for only 5 minutes, but 3x per day. The idea is to germinate all the weed seeds. Do that for a week and spray with Round Up, Grass-b-Gon, or whatever plant killer you are allowed to use. Then continue watering 3x per day for another week to get the slow sprouting weeds. Spray again to get that stuff. Let that all die for a week, rake up the dead stuff, level the surface the way you want it, scatter seed, roll the seed down (or for 1,000 square feet just walk on it to press the seed down onto the soil). Then continue watering 3x per day same as before to sprout the grass seed. KBG seed takes about 3 weeks to get 80% germination. With the prep and Round UP, you should not get any weeds in this lawn. Do this as early as you can in the fall so you have time to redo any spots that came out thin. KBG will spread to fill, but not much the first year. When it gets up to 5 inches tall, mow it down to 4 inches or whatever the mower's highest setting is. With all that in mind, are you up to that much of a project? Raking it up is the only hard part. If you are not allowed to use herbicides, you might need to have a landscaper come in with a tractor and a box blade to scrape the surface off. That will leave the perfect surface for new seed.