You also get the wisdom of the ages and people who might not have the same experiences. The advice I gave is based on years (and years) of reading and moderating forums for amateurs and professionals. Applying fertilizer on Memorial Day might be too late in your area due to the onset of summer heat, but as a starting point, it is a very easy date to remember. Whether you get disease or not depends also on grass variety, air circulation, dew, humidity, soil type, and other factors. I'm not sure why Georgia would be much different from other places where the taller grasses are the healthier ones. At the same time that the wisdom of the ages sounds like a good idea, you also get the senility of the aged. Tupersan is relatively new to my repertoire of garden products. I became 100% organic before I heard of it and seem to have a block about that product. In general I don't put any faith in preemergent herbicides but people I respect tell me they work. I do recall from my relatively recent reading that Tupersan works as tiemco says. Professional grass growers (livestock producers) fertilize with 1/4 of their annual nitrogen in the spring, and they always apply it after the initial flush of green growth has ended. They apply 3/4 of the annual nitrogen in the fall. They do it this way to minimize their mowing workload and to spread the productive growth along throughout the entire growing season. The wisdom of the ages here at GardenWeb also agrees with tiemco that combination fertilizer/weed killer products are not going to do what you expect them to do and it is better to use different products for the different requirements. Yes Mother Nature has Her own ideas about watering, but for what you do, you do not have to encourage weeds. Far too many people set their sprinkler to operate for 10 minutes every day. That schedule is going to germinate every seed in the garden. You have control over your own watering. Allowing the soil surface to dry out as much as you can will develop deep, drought resistant roots as well as minimize weed seed germination.

Baby Bermuda in Atlanta? Baby Bermuda is an exclusive product of Easton Sod farms located in OK. It is also a hybrid and there is no seed. How did you get it? Anyway crabgrass is easy to control with post-emergence products. But as stated you have to wait until the lawn is mature and has been mowed a few times. Otherwise you risk injuring the grass. FWIW you could paint it on, but if you are going to that much trouble, why not just pull it out to begin with and cast that demon back to he!! Nut Sedge is another issue and very difficult to control. Most of the post - emergence controls just makes it mad and the nut underneath the ground sends up three replacements for every one you spray. There are a couple of product out there like Manage and Sedge Hammer that are effective but very expensive.

Well three things are going on from your description. 1. You pulled the trigger way to early. Soil temps need to be above 65 degrees for Bermuda to germinate from seed. That means high 80's to low 90 degree days and night lows in the mid 60's. 2. If you used a Slit Seeder, you planted the Bermuda seed way way too deep. For Bermuda yu just loosen the top 1/4 of soil, Broadcast the seed, then roll it down to make contact with the soil. General rule with any seed is to plant no deeper than 4 times the diameter of the seed. Bermuda seed is the size of a small grain of sand. 3. Lastly the least of your concerns is Bermuda slow to germinate, 7 to 10 days if conditions are right. So for now be patient, see what happens, and when it warms up enough if nothing happens try again with knowledge gained from your mistakes. When and if you try again, loosen up the top 1/4 inch of soil, mix in some 10-10-10 just before seeding, seed, and then roll down. Have a nice day. This post was edited by texas-weed on Wed, May 22, 13 at 17:46

Seed heads are why people sometimes have to mow their bermuda 2x-3x per week. Your lawn is very normal. Your version of the correct mowing height is at the far upper end of being practical. That height is used because most rotary mowers can't go any lower, but if you had a reel type mower, 1/2 to 3/4 inch would be better. When bermuda is kept very low it takes on a different growth habit and becomes more dense. If you ever visit a golf course, look at the greens and how the grass stems grow sideways with the blades coming off the stem. Most residential bermuda lawns have vertical stems.