Fescue sod rescue in hot weather
fly4cap
7 years ago
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hawksster .
7 years agoUser
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
Tired of fescue in NC, need suggestions
Comments (22)Ok... DON'T TILL! You will sprout every flavor of weed and barnyard grass known to man.... Your "Yard" will be a 4 foot tall HAY FIELD full of crabgrass, Johnson grass, Barnyard grass, weeds, seedling trees, and every other type of weed seed that has landed in your yard in the last 5,000 years..... And.. It will be a lumpy mess.... Ok... So... You killed it... I would have advised waiting till late May/early June to do that.. but it's done... Sod it! May as well do it right now to take advantage of the remaining summer/fall before frost hits and it goes dormant.... Just for 1 data point... My builder set out TIF 419 sod in NOVEMBER last year... It never even greened up till Spring this year.... But.. Green up it did and it grew out just fine.... and this was 1 cold winter. On Manure.... Summertime cow manure isn't a good thing unless you want a yard full of old fashioned Common Bermuda and Crabgrass and weeds.... Down here in the south in the Summertime -- they feed cows Bermuda hay and Red Crabgrass hay because of problems with Fescue Toxicosis.... so you get tons of Bermuda and Crabgrass seed in that hay.... Unfortunately, it's not a new and improved "Yard" Bermuda.. but the old fashioned "Common" unimproved cow pasture Bermuda.... Pretty stalky and doesn't really fill in to make a dense, lush turf.... It's good if you want to run some cows, though... Thanks John...See MoreBermuda Sod
Comments (8)1. I am thinking about Tifsport as a hybrid choice. Is this a good choice for a homeowner? I see that it is popular as an athletic field choice. How about an improved common from seed? 2. I have a rotary mower..riding lawnmower. How do I cut this stuff? I have a larger yard, so a walk behind reel mower seems impractical. Tifsport is an excellent hybrid. It is a semi-dwarf Bermuda, is very aggressive that repairs itself from damage very quickly like you see on sports field. In addition it is the most cold tolerant of all the Bermuda. That brings us your lawn mower challenge. TifSport is has been bred to grow very low, well below 1-inch, and form a very tight dense turf. A riding rotary or any rotary lawn mower is not capable of cutting below 1-1/2 inches or so. If you are going to use TifSport you will need a reel mower, and you will need to mow just about every day when it gets hot. 4. Will I continue to fight the common bermuda? Or will the sod eventually choke it out?? If you lay sod you will have a pretty high percentage of pure stock. With seed there will be more contamination. But it is no big deal and will not be noticeable for several years. However all Bermuda lawns become contaminated with wild or common Bermuda. Wind, rain and birds will carry it in. This is why you see a lot of golf courses resod the course every 10 to 15 years. But for a home owner it is not of much concern. And...can I put sod down over my existing lawn? Simply kill off the fescue, cut it down, punch the soil and lay the sod? Not a very good plan. Minimum is spray the existing lawn, wait a week, scalp it as low as you can go, remove all debris, and sugar coat with a top-dressing. As for using a seeded common types, there are some excellent varieties to choose from. But you have a problem, it is too late to seed right now in your area as you only have a few short weeks of hot weather left. If you go with seed it will have to wait until next May or June...See MoreCritique my organic rescue plan please
Comments (3)A quick and cursory web search for "soil testing in South Africa" produced a large list, many of which may not be what you want. A quick and cursory search for "Agricultural schools in South Africa" produced this "Formal agricultural training is available at five different levels, i.e. at primary schools, secondary schools, colleges of agriculture, technikons and universities." as well as a fairly long list of such schools. Some places to start to find out about the soil pH and nutrient levels. These simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. may also help....See MoreBare earth due to construction: to sod or not to sod
Comments (71)>>Topsoil depth guesstimate is about 6" nearest foundation and drops gradually over next 10 feet-this area will be for bedding plants. Topsoil depth guesstimate for lawn starting 10' out from foundation: 4" That's extremely deep and would invalidate the Logan test. Four inches covers most of the feeder root depth for grasses. So although the tests here are good for the rest of the lawn, the top soil area is an unknown. Wait and see if it ends up that deep, it does seem like an awful lot of top soil. The results of the test: Total Exchange Capacity 8.15: Consistent with the soil test. While optimal is 10 to 15, this is not a problem in the slightest. Soil ph 7.5: It's good we recommended no lime as it would be exactly the wrong response in this soil. Your pH is already thrown somewhat high, although this is no barrier to a gorgeous lawn. But let's not throw it out of whack any further than it already is. % Organic Matter 4.13: In the Good range, but with the lower EC and high pH, I'd recommend adding OM slowly over the next few years. That will tend to raise the EC somewhat and make the pH matter less. ANIONS Sulfur: p.p.m 14: Perfect. Phosphorus lbs/acre 133: A little low. I recommended starter fertilizer below. CATIONS Calcium 2528 (desired 2216) Magnesium 242 (desired 234) Potassium 272 (desired 254) Sodium 72 (pounds per acre) >>I don't report on these directly, I use them as a basis for adjusting soils. Base Saturation % Calcium 77.55 (60 to 70%): In perfect range, although on the high side of it. Excess Ca isn't a problem. Magnesium 12.37 (10-20%): In perfect range. Potassium 4.28 (2 to 5%): In perfect range (which is rare for K). Sodium 1.91 (.5-3%): High. This, in combination with your otherwise perfect cations above, is sending the pH too high. At this time, I'm not going to change it. Let's see if it leaches out. Other Bases 3.90 (variable): Everything else. This is pretty normal. Exchangable Hydrogen 0.00 (10 to 15%)**: Zero because of your high pH. Trace Elements Boron p.p.m. 0.23: Low. Boron's critical for photosynthesis and meristem development and differentiation. Recommendations below. Iron p.p.m. 167.0: Technically OK, but this won't produce good color in the lawn. Use Milorganite as desired to raise this and raise the OM at the same time. Manganese p.p.m. 16.0 Copper p.p.m. 3.97 Zinc p.p.m. 3.4 Aluminum p.p.m 678.0 These four are fine (Al isn't used, it's actually toxic, but not available until pH drops into the low-5 range). Zn is technically out of whack when compared to the others, but I'm not inclined to fiddle with it. Recommendations: May 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. June 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. June 15: Apply 3 tablespoons per thousand square feet of 20 Mule Team borax (use Milorganite as a carrier to even the distribution and get this tiny amount down). September 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. September 15: Apply 3 tablespoons per thousand square feet of 20 Mule Team borax....See Moreowlnsr
7 years agofly4cap
7 years agoTS Garp
7 years agoTS Garp
7 years agofly4cap
7 years agojoe renalds
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoUser
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agojoe renalds
7 years ago
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