Jeff, the level is up to you. You can level the area by increasing the amount of mortar or maintain the slope. After you have laid the thin flagstone on the concrete base, and it has dried, you will grout between the stones. Be sure to use some admix (like elmers glue) in your mortar mix so you get a good bond to the old concrete pavement. On the grassy area: You are going to remove the grass down maybe 3" and add crushed stone or granite gravel, lower than the old sidewalk and depending on the thickness of your flagstone. Now tamp it down (again leveled or slopped)and sprinkle some dry portland cement on the top. In this area you want to use a thicker flagstone and you are only going to use enough sand to level the stone. When all the stone is down mist everything so that the portland grabs onto the flagstone and the gravel. Now you are ready to grout between the stones and it will look like one continuous patio. The only place that you will need edging is where the stone is not held in by something e.g. the edge where the steps are. I've actually used the thin edging for pavers that you get at the big box stores. My step comment had to do with the blue line and the lag bolt trim pcs but if you mortar the flagstone you won't need anything special there. Bailey

The chile in the first two pics is a "Habanero" (by bonnie plants) and the other one is a Red Beauty bell pepper. I have a Sunbell & a Mucho Nacho jalapeno & a supersweet 100 cherry tomato and they aren't showing the same symptoms. I also have 10 seedlings in coco coir in the closet, and they are all doing good so far, some are about ready for hardening off :) Interesting, I never thought it could be over-feeding, but I can try cutting back on nutes. According to the bottle (Hesi coco is a 1 part system) you should feed 3ml/L during "veg" and 5ml/L during "bloom", pH @ 5.6-6.2. I've been feeding like just a bit under that, about 2.5ml/L (i have a 5ml measuring syringe & i feed the plants 2 liters total). Willard, the reason I think it might be calcium is because I used bricked coir (the kind that isn't pre-soaked to satisfy the cation exchange ratio). According to everything I found about coco coir most info suggests either pre-soaking with calcium supplements or using calcium supplements the first few weeks because the cation exchange capacity of coir tends to hold onto the calcium in the solution and make it unavailable to the plant until the coir is filled with it. The whole cation exchange capacity thing is kinda confusing to me, apparently its a unique feature to coco coir. So yeah, you think that could be it or you still vote for too much nutes? I can try feeding half-strength solution for a week or so and see how that helps, or i can keep feeding same strength and just supplement with that cal-mag that will be here tomorrow and see how that works. Which one do you suggest? Also, I think I'm going to start pre-mixing my solution and aerating it with an aquarium airstone, you think that's a good idea? Currently I draw the water I'm going to use for the next feeding when I finish the current one and let it sit in the water bucket to give the water a chance to de-chlorinate then mix the solution immediately before use. And I plan on getting a meter soon (i'm a broke college student lol), what kind do you suggest? And any good suggested reading? Sorry bout all the questions, but I'm just jumping on the chance to get some answers from someone who knows what's really goin on :) I appreciate it Justin

Tammy, You won't get it the way you want it to look the first year. After this year, you will see how things grow, how they look together, how the spacing works, and make changes. In year two, it will be much better. But then, you have to think about rotating the third year! It never ends, but ENJOY it. But definitely plan on pulling out the peas in May and replacing with either cukes or pole beans. It works out perfectly. And find shady places if you want the chance to have salad greens almost all summer. I tuck mine under the tomatoes and underneath my A-frames on which my cukes and beans are planted. That gets me through until fall planting. Carrots also like it under the tomatoes and I like the way the lacy foliage hides the bare tomato stalks close to the ground. You'll find ways to tuck plants into your spaces to make more room and get the look you want. Marcy

I'm not familiar with how grasscloth would hold up in a non-climate-controlled room. Others may have better recommendations. With your counters/cabinets and with what you describe (liking reclaimed wood but not primary colors) then maybe steer toward metal, wood, grays and blacks. The chairs you have could be painted black. Perhaps find an industrial table with a metal top or wood that you can age yourself. I recommend a chair height dining room table rather than a bar table, as it can serve more comfortably for both office work and parties. If you are inclined there are many ways to "age" new wood. There's a steel wool and vinegar method you can find on the Internet that my brother-in-law uses. Real aged barn wood is expensive and in high demand. He travels to rural locations for it but has to sometimes mix in new wood with his projects and the steel wool method works well in blending new fillers with the authentically aged wood. Others will chime in with great ideas and inspiration photos for you too I'm sure.