Tex,

I'm sorry, but am just not spotting a real problem. Take a magnifying glass and examine closely for aphids is my only advice other than waiting for others to chime in.

JMO at the moment

In for answer i've got same issue....

I'll have to get better pics then. The new leaves are much yellower than they were a few days ago, and are wrinkled, deformed, torn etc. The smallest new leaves even look dead at the tips. So I'm leaning toward a nutrient deficiency, i sprayed them with a pyretherin pesticide when I first noticed the messed up leaves, but the way it only affects new foliage makes me think its nutrient related.

I ordered some cal-mag plus because my best guess is calcium deficiency. Anything else cause yellowing/ wrinkling/tearing/distortion of new leaves taht leaves the old leaves relatively untouched? Some of the old leaves on one plant are curling slightly too, but not chlorotic like the new leaves.

Hopefully Willard will see this post. When it comes to hydro he is the go to guy.

You grow hydro. So you keep track of pH and probably test with a DH or TDS meter too. Also temperatures. If you have this or additional info I would post so he can see it.

Yeah, I don't have a tds or ec meter, but I do pH the water. I'm using Hesi Coco for my nutes, 3ml/L pH'd to approx between 5.6-6.0 as best I can tell (use the pH drops, not a meter so I can't get it on point, but close). I measured the pH of the runoff and it is about the same, closer to about 6.0. I'm hand watering every other day til i get about 10-20% runoff which according to everything I read works great for coco (and for the most part it is, tomato & 3 of the peppers are thriving as well as all the seedlings)

From what I've read about the cation exchange capacity of coco coir, it sucks up nutrients until it is filled and then holds them until the plant needs them. According to most of what I've read, calcium is the most notable element affected by that, and it is suggested to use calcium supplements during the first week or when hydrating.

I didn't use any supplements because the Hesi coco bottle said it had calcium in it, but I think this may still be the problem. The bottle of cal-mag plus will be here on thursday. Hopefully it will help. I'm going to try soaking some fresh coir in the cal-mag + nutrient solution before transplanting another habanero I still have in a peat pot on the windowsill into it. (The plant with the yellow distorted leaves is the other hab, I bought 2 of the same plant but never transplanted 1).

Mine get yellowish and crinkled when they stay too wet. I let them dry out a little more and the new leaves start coming out normal. However, this doesn't apply at all to growing hydroponically.

Do hydro growers aerate their mixtures? It's been years since I had an ebb and flow system with rockwool cubes. Memory is a little cloudy on how things worked.

I must first ask what kind of chile this is? I have had very healthy chinenses do this, tangerine bells in particular and it's normal.

I would also read carefully what the nutrient analysis is if you think it's calcium deficiency. I use 3-part solution and don't have any problems with calcium until I get mature fruit on large-fruited chiles and then I correct with added calcium.

You must also measure nutrient concentration and what you show looks very much like too much nutrient if you can't find any bugs....bugs make the same symptoms. Measuring and controlling Ph and nutrient concentration is critical to hydro. Get a meter. Chiles are extremely sensitive to over-fertilization, either in hydro or dirt.

The chile in the first two pics is a "Habanero" (by bonnie plants) and the other one is a Red Beauty bell pepper. I have a Sunbell & a Mucho Nacho jalapeno & a supersweet 100 cherry tomato and they aren't showing the same symptoms.

I also have 10 seedlings in coco coir in the closet, and they are all doing good so far, some are about ready for hardening off :)

Interesting, I never thought it could be over-feeding, but I can try cutting back on nutes. According to the bottle (Hesi coco is a 1 part system) you should feed 3ml/L during "veg" and 5ml/L during "bloom", pH @ 5.6-6.2. I've been feeding like just a bit under that, about 2.5ml/L (i have a 5ml measuring syringe & i feed the plants 2 liters total).

Willard, the reason I think it might be calcium is because I used bricked coir (the kind that isn't pre-soaked to satisfy the cation exchange ratio). According to everything I found about coco coir most info suggests either pre-soaking with calcium supplements or using calcium supplements the first few weeks because the cation exchange capacity of coir tends to hold onto the calcium in the solution and make it unavailable to the plant until the coir is filled with it.

The whole cation exchange capacity thing is kinda confusing to me, apparently its a unique feature to coco coir.

So yeah, you think that could be it or you still vote for too much nutes? I can try feeding half-strength solution for a week or so and see how that helps, or i can keep feeding same strength and just supplement with that cal-mag that will be here tomorrow and see how that works. Which one do you suggest?

Also, I think I'm going to start pre-mixing my solution and aerating it with an aquarium airstone, you think that's a good idea? Currently I draw the water I'm going to use for the next feeding when I finish the current one and let it sit in the water bucket to give the water a chance to de-chlorinate then mix the solution immediately before use.

And I plan on getting a meter soon (i'm a broke college student lol), what kind do you suggest? And any good suggested reading?

Sorry bout all the questions, but I'm just jumping on the chance to get some answers from someone who knows what's really goin on :) I appreciate it

Justin

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Also, I think I'm going to start pre-mixing my solution and aerating it with an aquarium airstone, you think that's a good idea? Currently I draw the water I'm going to use for the next feeding when I finish the current one and let it sit in the water bucket to give the water a chance to de-chlorinate then mix the solution immediately before use.

And I plan on getting a meter soon (i'm a broke college student lol), what kind do you suggest? And any good suggested reading?
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You must aerate nutrient solution 24/7 as it both controls pathogens and brings oxygen to the roots. Air pumps are inexpensive and don't use much elec. Also, start mixing 500-1000 ppm 3% hydrogen peroxide with your water as it, too, controls pathogens.

I have yet to find a bad EC meter, but I use Sunleaves from Worm's Way.

Try the link below for the best book of which I know.

Here is a link that might be useful: Hydro Book

Tx.,,,i'm not growing hydro,but i had the EXACT same problem last year,turns out,simple over-watering.I had to air out the roots and re-pot in dry soil,the plants erupted into monsters !,one other thing,i consulted a local grower,(FT.Worth area)and he said plain ole' tap water here had all the magnesium and calcuim these babies needed...just my 2 cents worth!Good luck !