1) I am using one cool "kitchen/bath" bulb and one "daylight" bulb to hit both ends of the light spectrum. Both were cheap and seem to work fine. 2) I am for weed barriers, even if they're temporary like cardboard or layers of newspaper (I used landscape fabric for a bad weed problem). And I've never heard of any veggie with 10 foot root systems, maybe 10 inches. Roots will eventually grow through paper or cardboard. 3) Bottom watering is fine. They will wick up what they need without towels. I am doing that with my soil blocks which are similar to peat pucks. Good luck and definitely ger those seedlings under lights 12-14 hours a day (2 inches from the tops of the plants) ASAP. Enjoy the process! Here is a link that might be useful: Sinfonian's garden adventure

What's the state of your heating plant these days? I remember your posts from last fall about wanting to have some kind of temporary and intermittent heating for when you were visting over the winter. I ask because if you have damp moldiness, I doubt if you can deal with it effectively without a healthy dose of well-heated house air. You might find that if you can heat the house to normal temps, even when you're not there, that alone may be sufficiently curative all by itself. Beyond that, the remedy for all sorts of moldiness consists of changing the environment to inhibit the growth of mold. You can remove its surface manifestations but don't imagine you can sterilize away or even sanitize into oblivion. At best you can force it into abeyance.Mold needs moisture laden air (which is where temps come into play, see below); stillness in the air, darkness and food. Food is somewhat specifc to the species of molds, but many have wide palates. Basically food is any organic substance: paper, wood, (both cellulose), dirt, both outright earthy-type soil and the ickier dirt of general grunge, fly specks, greasy-dust, fats from soap and body soil. And they need certain temps to flurish. But they can survive in a resting or dormant form decades outside of these temp parameters, hence you can not really expect them to go away, just to go quiet, awaiting better days. Now about the affect of temps and moisture laden air. For a given amount of available moisture, cooler temps will result in condensation of water droplets on surfaces; warmer air will hold hold more moisture in the air. In general heated houses are also dryer because of the ensuing exchanges of warm air out into the atmosphere through leaks and door openings and closings. Plus heaters which burn air also move it through and out. Your first task is to get the house heated and dried out. If you aren't heating with a heating plant, then you must wait for nature to provide this after Spring has arrived (probably in mid to late May in western PA.) When that happens get the whole house opened during all warm days, but closed again at night. Remove the lino and use paper towels to mop up the visible manifestations of mold. You can treat the area with bleach if you want. But simple hot water washing, and ordinary clean-up will also be fine. Then get the air in the house heated with both interior and basement areas dried out. This will remove molds' essential conditions of life and suppress them - for now, at least. If you have breathing or health issues, you might wear a respirator and a discardable Tyvek suit when tackling the first rounds of clean up. Continued, heated occupation of the structure and fairly intensive standards of household cleaning over a period of years will be effective in winning the mold-wars. Give some early thought to makking sure your basement is as dry as it can be. Also don't panic, almost all old houses have some mold issues - and most old house owners co-exist with them without excessive problems. L.

I am not an attorney, but have argued number of cases in the courts. The rules of the contract are simple - offer, accept-ion, consideration. Same rules apply to amending the contract. Make sure that your contract was not amended. Check contract for provisions about amending the contract, if an amendment have to be in writing... agreed upon both parties. Make sure that at NO POINT you agreed to amend or pay the amount of $268k. I do not like you implying that the issue is with the lack of money in the loan draw, or bank not willing to pay additional money. No the one and only issue you should be raising - that you paid as agreed upon in the contract. If indeed your contract was for $255k +change order and you paid $255k + your change order = your side of the contract should be satisfied. "he does have a clause that states we must have a C/O and signed certificate of completion and all bills paid prior to occupancy." The builder was paid as agreed in the contract. I assume your builder will claim [mendaciously] that you agreed to amend the contract to pay/compensate him for the overages. If you did not agree to amend the contract[agreed to pay] I would send your builder a Notice of Breach of Contract additionally stating withholding certificate of occupancy or refusing to sign certificate of completion to obtain the amount not agreed upon in the contract is in Bad Faith. Esp knowing that you and your family has no place to live - reasonable fact finder may view this as extortion. (You want him to hit a tort of Bad Faith). (Additionally you may state the items that were not completed according to the contract - however that could cause the delay as he could intentionally refused to complete them). I do not know if you should breach a contract and occupy the property. It sounds that there are some issues with the basement, etc and this also could terminate your warranty. However I would apply for C/O immediately. It is your right and it does not affect the contract. I would mail Notice of Breach of Contract - as it alone could terminate your obligations under the contract.==== Do NOT breach a contract just yet, seek attorney feedback. Do not listen to individuals saying builder has no recourse. In the court biggest liar wins, shysters never punished. Brian S Dump LibertyMutual - dirty liars and cheats protected by presumably corrupt judges.

Is this being used in the US? I know that combo wash/dry units have been used in Europe for years, but wasn't aware that LG also made one for the US. My only concern with something like this is if one part of it were to break (either the washer part or the dry part) and it was past warranty, it might be more expensive to repair...or to replace it. A separate washer and dryer may have more longevity with lower repair costs down the road. Would you be able to post some pictures of it? How long does it take to do a full wash and dry?