Please help me with color scheme to go with butcher block island
ssdarb
10 years ago
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raee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Butcher block insert in marble island, advice please
Comments (30)I think that Christopher Peacock kitchen does have a lipped cutting board sitting on top of the marble -- just like the oldalgebra and homepro01 have mentioned. I suspect it looks different because if you are Christopher Peacock, you get a wood artisan to create a custom piece for you and it is made to fit over the edge of the marble and back under to the cabinet so that it looks perfectly finished and it stays in place better when working at it. If you are going to pay for a CP kitchen, you certainly aren't going to photograph your kitchen with a cutting board you could buy off Amazon, and if you are CP, this is one of those things you sell your client on -- art as function. Looks great and protects the marble even if you don't cook in the kitchen....See Morebutcher block island with sink - asking for trouble??
Comments (16)I work for a large wood countertop manufacturer (company name being eliminated so this won't be an advertisement). About 40-50% of all our wood tops have sink cutouts in them. This is very common and to my knowledge, we've never had one claim/return for product failure. I hope I can address your issues you've raised and provide answers from our perspective: Your Question #1. End vs. Edge grain. We have always used end grain butcher blocks, as my understanding is they are better for your knives (don;t dull them as quickly, etc.) However, end grain is usually thicker, and I am not sure if they can accommodate a sink. Our comments on this question: End grain is indeed easier on knives (vs. end or plank). The key issue to remember is that once you select wood, your knives are already grateful...the improvement is marginal in the bigger picture. End grain can certainly accommodate a sink and that shouldn't be a concern. Your Question #2. Water and food safe finishes. The company I have been dealing with prefers to use a non-food safe finish on an edge grain counter if there is going to be a sink, since they do not recommend using other finishes if the counter is going to be exposed to water (rot, warping, etc.). Our comments on this question: The company you are dealing with seems smart in that they understand the need to provide a moisture-resistant finish. There ARE food-safe finishes (we use a food-safe tung-oil finish). This finish is our #1 selling finish and absolutely stands up to moisture. Depending on the type and amount of use on your wood top, you will need to have the finish re-applied every 3-5 years; this is best done by a professional. The key items you need to follow are: 1)ensure that a tung oil or permanent finish (e.g., polyurethane) is applied to the sink cutout section and all unexposed wood areas and 2) ensure that your installer is experienced with wood tops and knows how to produce a perfect seal to keep water out. If these two items are followed, you'll have a wood top you'll love for many years to come....See MoreThose with Craft-Art walnut butcher blocks- please help!
Comments (8)Thanks capegirl for your response. Yes, it is smooth on the side that I've shown and has a huge 1/3" wide x 15" long gap on the back side, so am assuming that is the back! It was not labelled as such. Interestingly, the back has only a couple of knots that aren't as prominent, but they aren't filled either and have good sized gaps in them. The top is smooth and actually quite beautiful. It just looks rustic to me, and all my friends think it's rustic looking too. ARGH! The final piece and I just wanted it to be like the picture on the website! And yes, so far Craft-Art has had good customer service. I'm still emailing photos, so keep your fingers crossed.........See MoreJoing butcher block counter slabs to make wide island
Comments (19)I have teak countertops in my kitchen. Done out of 8/4 planks, edge glued. I used biscuits and West System epoxy. I wiped the plank edges down with acetone just prior to assembly. The run of countertop as a whole is 30" deep by roughly 18' long, it's two separate pieces that overlap on the ends, one about 12' long, the other about 6' long. The overlap is because one countertop is a couple inches lower than the other one. I have an under mount kitchen sink, so the end grain of the planks is exposed to water at the sink. Zero damage. Been in for almost 20 years. No warping, lifting, curling, no separation at all on the glue lines. Finished with mineral oil. The oil holds up well, I try to renew the oil once or maybe twice a year, though I have gone several years without renewing it. I have another teak end-grain butcher block cutting surface as a kitchen island end cap. Roughly 4' square with one corner clipped on a 45, and 5" or so thick. The individual blocks are about 3-1/2" by 2" and assembled in a running bond pattern. Same assembly; I wiped the blocks down with acetone, then epoxied. No biscuits on that one. We do cut on it some, not a lot, but the cutting surface has held up perfectly. On the side or edge of the block, there's one break on a glue line, where the grain orientation of the two blocks don't remotely match up due to one of the blocks having wild running grain. The break isn't noticeable to the eye, but you can feel it when you run your fingertip along the edge. There's maybe a 1/32" lippage at that joint. Just enough to catch a fingernail on if you run it along the side of the slab. I've never bothered to sand it flush. Great material for a countertop. Been used and abused in a heavily used kitchen, and they still look pretty darn bueno....See Moreraee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
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10 years agokaren_belle
10 years agoraee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
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10 years ago
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