Hardwood in bedrooms and closets or carpeting?
11 years ago
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- 11 years ago
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What are pros and cons between hardwood and carpet flooring in bedroom
Comments (5)Carpets are warm and quiet underfoot. The noise dampening of carpet is not to be under estimated. Carpet prevents noise from moving OUT of a room and into another room as well as prevents noise ENTERING from underneath (ahem...the family room). That being said, the carpet is NOT the part that offers the noise reduction....it is the HIGH END PAD that offers the noise reduction. To get the noise reduction properties of carpet, you have to work with a more expensive carpet pad. Simply throwing down commercial grade berber over plywood (as an example) will not offer any form of acoustic properties. A hardwood floor can be used to reduce noise with SEVERAL requirements being Added to the installation. Of course, first and foremost the subfloors for those bedrooms need to be assessed to ensure a happy install. You might find that the hardwood install requires a LOT more preparation (ahem...costs and materials) than you anticipated. OK, assuming things are ready to role without much effort (rarely happens but let's just play along for a moment) the hardwood will need an acoustic underlayment (such as 6mm or 12mm cork underlayment). It is the underlayment (again...it is all about what sits UNDERNEATH the floor) that absorbs the noise, not the wood itself. The underlayment can add 1/4" (6mm) or even 1/2" (12mm) worth of floor-height raise onto a hardwood that might already be 3/4" thick. Oh dear. Check your door clearance. Most doors can handle a floor that is (roughly) 3/4" thick. That means most interior doors can handle 3/4" hardwood or a thick carpet + thick pad or even laid tile (can sit roughly 3/4") without having to remove/trim and rehang the darn things. But let's imagine this isn't going to be so easy. Let's imagine the hardwood needs a STIFFER subfloor which might mean another 1/2" of plywood. And now you want to add in 1/4" of cork for noise dampening. And then you choose a 3/4" solid hardwood. Uh Oh. You have just added 1 1/2" worth of floor height in those rooms. Hmmmmmm. Now the doors have to be trimmed and rehung. Oh wait and now the hallway floor sits REALLY low which means a BIG transition in the doorways. Whew. A beautifully thick carpet and thick pad will max out at 3/4". Doors and baseboards should be able to handle that thickness without much issue. The real trick will be the hardwood. What is the flooring OUTSIDE the bedrooms? What is currently INSIDE the bedrooms? What are your door clearances CURRENTLY sitting at? What is the subfloor thickness? How much noise enters/exits those rooms with the current set up?...See MoreCarpet vs hardwood or laminate on second floor with bedrooms
Comments (9)Have the current carpet professionally cleaned. Don't worry about the squeaky floor. It won't turn off buyers. If these homes are used as staff accommodations, the buyer will simply be looking for safe, clean, and in good repair. I would spend my money and effort on neutral paint. The luxury vinyl is a pretty good product. If you must install new flooring, this is what I would select. Just be certain to install it throughout the upstairs, not just one room. Visually, the continuity of material is pleasing to the eye. There will be no return on investment if you install any type of new flooring, unless the old flooring was in such bad condition as to be a negative....See MoreBamboo, Engineered Hardwood, or Carpet for 2nd Floor Bedrooms? Noise
Comments (8)In one word: Cork. Cork can be found in a floating floor plank. It comes in thicknesses between 10mm and 15mm (10.5mm - 12mm is common). I would figure out how HIGH the carpet stood and how much clearance the door has and work with those numbers. For instance, if your door has a snick more than 3/4" clearance, I would find a 10.5 or 11mm thick cork floating plank (7/16") and ADD 6mm cork underlayment (1/4") so that the TOTAL floor height is roughly 3/4" tall. Do that for ALL areas. I would then go ahead and add (so long as the cork allows it) a coat or two of protective finish like Loba 2K Supra AT. This coating adds SCRATCH resistance AND slip resistance (it has some of the best anti-slip ratings on the market). It ALSO adds moisture resistance...such as when a leaking pet (or human...spills happen) accidently loses control, the finish on top will prevent permanent damage to the planks. The cork will mimic the carpet absorption. Not quite perfect but very very close. You will still hear the deep thud of HARD footsteps (like thumping out of bed in a huff...whhhhhhaaaaaaat???Teenage girls NEVER do THAAAT ;-P www.icorkfloor.com Have a look. It can't hurt. If nothing else, it gives you a GREAT place to purchase 6mm or 12mm cork underlay for laminate. LVP does NOT like underpad. LVP will mimic what you hear RIGHT NOW. It doesn't like underpad. So much so that most Condo boards do NOT allow LVP in living areas because of noise complaints....See MoreTransition form dark hallway hardwood to lighter bedroom hardwood
Comments (11)OK...the solid hardwood is factory finished. That's fine. It means that you can choose a solid factory finish so that EVENTUALLY you can get all of this refinished at the same time AND STILL end up with the same floor throughout. What you do is find the SPECIES of the hardwood and the width (and the thickness)...and if you can find the same grade/cut. Sure you can run it perpendicular to the hallway...so long as you are NOT on wood joists. If you have wooden subfloors the direction of the joists will dictate the direction of install. Regardless. So long as you get the same species in solid, you can always sand/refinish everything at once = same floor throughout the home. You do not have to do it today...but it gives you the BEST option to do it later if you want...or just before you put the house up for sale....See More- 11 years ago
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