Don't give beans any extra nitrogen. They get all they need from the air. Too much and the leaves will yellow and the plant will suffer. I must respectfully disagree. Beans are not able to get any nitrogen from the air that they are able to use. A specific bacteria is required in the soil and it needs to be present in sufficient numbers for beans (any legume) to fix N from the air. In many cases folks can grow beans and do nothing, but in many other cases, supplemental fertilization including nitrogen will be required. The presence/abundance of this bacteria is not guaranteed. When plants start to yellow from the bottom up it's usually an indication that nutrients traveling from the roots upward is impaired. Could be over watering, under watering, odd weather or a genuine lack of adequate nutrient supply. If it were me, and it has been, I would add a rapidly available source of nutrients. My first choice in spite of being mostly organic in the garden would be Miracle Grow for 2 reasons. The first is that it is immediately available and if it's a nutrient problem it should start to correct in about a week. The second is MG has more than just nitrogen. For those wishing to stay completely organic blood meal would be a good choice. It's primarily going to provide nitrogen, but it will do it very quickly compared to other organic choices. I see no harm in trying nutrient supplementation if one's plants are deteriorating. What is there to lose by trying? Over the years I have found that legumes do OK for me without supplementation beyond compost, but they do better when I add some soybean meal every few weeks. Soybean meal primarily provides nitrogen. It takes a few weeks for it do anything though so isn't a quick fix.

Hi amanda_t, from a fellow Kentuckian. I currently practice here in Scott County and in Louisville. I've lived and gardened in Nicholasville, Versailles, Lexington, and Paris. Which best approximates where you are in KY? You mention you occupy a "large urban lot." Give us an idea of what that means (since in NYC that could be a 1000 square feet): 1/4 acre, 1 acre, 2.5 acres? Lexington has quite a few properties near the middle of town with 5 acre parcels. If you have a 100+ year old ginkgo, do everything you can to preserve/protect that youngster against all potential damage from new work you intend. That is a plant to treasure. All that said, here's what I'd offer based on your initial set of likes: Beeches: There simply is nothing to match the grace and beauty of an American Beech (Fagus grandifolia) in most seasons. While it is not my favorite large shade tree, I can see where it is one to invest in and love for life. Much of my career in Louisville revolves around managing the historic and wondrous landscapes of the old parks that are blessed with fabulous specimens and thick forests of American Beech. Don't "settle" for an import. Maples for fall color: There are many native species (Sugar and Red Maples already mentioned) and myriad introduced species (Acer griseum, Acer triflorum, Acer palmatum, Acer henryi among them) that offer stellar fall color. Decide which category (large, intermediate, or small) that you'd like to invest in. None will be immune to ice damage; that is easy to observe around Lexington and Louisville. Catalpa: I agree with you on this one - it is too seldom used for its bold branch architecture and impressive leaves/flowers. People focus too much on "litter". I defy anyone to identify a tree that doesn't drop something at sometime. Biases indeed... Crabapples with pretty flowers: There are numerous excellent selections in this category. Pretty flowers are a given. Consider only selecting the highly disease resistant forms, and then decide if you want white, pink, or reddish flowers. Forms can be interesting, from the standard big rounded trees to erect, pendulous, weeping, and dwarf. Finally, the best combine all the above choices with small persistent fruit. This provides winter-long interest until spring leaf-out and/or arrival of the hungry robins to strip them. If you are serious about this species, I can provide a separate (long) list for KY. Redbuds and Dogwood: These are never bad choices. There are numerous fine performers for KY. Trees with wide stretching branches or shapely branches: Hmmm. This is hardest to answer, since it is rather open-ended. I'll second the votes for Nyssa sylvatica and Picea orientalis. These are two that there can't be too many of. I'll offer some tree ideas that haven't been mentioned previously above. Cercidiphyllum japonicum, esp. 'Amazing Grace' Gymnocladus dioicus Carya cordiformis Ilex opaca Abies nordmanniana Quercus michauxii Ostrya virginiana Franklinia alatamaha Halesia diptera esp. 'Magniflora' Viburnum rufidulum Asimina triloba Chionanthus virginicus Cladrastis kentukea It is interesting that no one above asked you what the site was like that you garden on. Some of the suggestions are outstanding - provided the growing conditions are good for that plant. Depending where you are in KY, white oak may be a rather poor choice. It doesn't occur often in the inner Bluegrass region, preferring instead the somewhat more acid soils surrounding this area. The favored trees of the Bluegrass landscape include Quercus macrocarpa, Quercus muehlenbergii, Quercus shumardii, Gymnocladus dioicus, and Fraxinus quadrangulata. I do and would continue to plant any/all of these (and spit in the eye of EAB).

Okay, seems the Linden will work best in front of the house. As for the other two, all along the north side of the house, is a long empty stretch that since the ice storm is only occupied by a weeping willow, right in center of that long stretch. I will need to put either the maple or the ginko in front, closest to the front street, and the other behind the willow, closest to the side street. Plenty of room for both without getting to close to either street or to the willow. Which might look better nearest the front street in time?

Here is what the local extension service is advising about trees damaged by the storm. For more info on the suprise lilies just google Lycoris Squamigera. Damaged Trees Need Patience Most Trees in southwest Missouri damaged by the great ice storm of 2007 need the patience of their owners most of all according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. "With ice still on the trees it is hard to determine the full damage to the tree," said Moore. "Really, it will be hard to tell if the tree can be saved until later this year when the tree gets its leaves. That is the best time to determine whether the tree can be saved or not." Unless a damaged tree poses a safety hazard - or is completely collapsed - Moore says the best action right now is to take no action at all. For more information on dealing with damaged trees call the Greene County Extension Center at (417) 862-9284 or download the materials available at extension.missouri.edu/greene. That website includes a page called "damaged trees" with eight publications recommended by Moore. The Missouri Conservation Department also has some good materials that were first developed after the major ice storm in Kansas City several years ago.