I think I would pick COQUETTE DES BLANCHES because it has not gone one day this season without blooms - most days it is loaded with them. Even blooms steadily in 100 degree heat. It is the most delicate pink, with a green button-eye, varies from perfect quartered and swirled cups to camelllia shaped blooms. The fragrance could be stronger, but is lovely in quality, and the spent blooms have a strong, spicy fragrance that makes deadheading a joy. Also - good vigor, pea-green foliage outlined in red, and clean, clean, clean all season. Wish I could post a pic, but am still tech challenged. If we don't count minis, I'll pick one of those too. The old mini BABY DARLING from Ralph Moore has many of the same qualities to recommend it. Reliable, healthy, blooms without pause. Delicate apricot blooms of a camellia or water lily shape, and a strong and piercing lilac fragrance. On bad days I have considered redoing my garden with only these two roses en masse (oh, and maybe HOT COCOA...).

It's OK if the cement boards don't perfectly butt up together. We filled the gap with thinset and used alkali resistant fibreglass tape (same idea as drywall tape, but specifically designed to be used with cement board, of course, more expensive). You smooth it out with a float just like you do drywall. Then, the waterproofing membrane/liquid is applied on top of that. The reason it's really important that everything be flat and smooth with large tiles, is that if they are off a wee bit, you will get lippage, ie an edge sticking out over the other. We did end up with that in a couple of spots, not a huge huge deal, but we wouldn't have been happy if every tile was like that. With 4 X 4 tile you can accommodate slight variations by applying more or less thin set and keep checking with a board or level that everything is nice and smooth and flat. We have a very healthy respect now for good tilers. Of course we made it more difficult for ourselves by choosing to tile with 12 X 24 tiles, and by putting in a shower niche. We also have a 3-4" jut out of one wall which required mitre cuts for two lengths of 8 ft walls. AND DH decided to mitre all the cuts for the niche, which also had a second glass shelf in there. All in all, lots and lots of intricate, difficult cuts. We made some mistakes in grouting too, ie not all grout joints are exactly the same depth. There is a lot to do to do a good tiling job. Yes, it is less expensive than cultured marble walls when you do it yourself (but with the added cost of all the equipment we needed to buy to do a good job not really sure, LOL), but it definitely was much easier and faster paying them to install the CM walls in our previous BR. I spent a lot of time on this forum, the John Bridge forum, and watching lots of Youtube videos. Ironically, it was my DH doing the tiling, not me, so my advice was not always followed to the letter and we had a few 'disagreements', let's say. I hope one day this frikken BR reno will be finally finished, and I will be able to enjoy using this shower...

I am just borrowing terms from them Please don't; it confuses things when you use nonstandard terms. What you mean by breaker handles tied That means the handles are mechanically joined, so they can't operate separately. If one trips, the other opens. If one is shut off, the other is too. Thus, they work like a double-pole breaker, which may also be used. I have kept his weird labelling scheme for now. What you did was OK except that the ground should be connected to the box (if it's metallic). You also could have fitted a properly sized double pole breaker to the panel, and connected the hots to it. You'd also have needed to pigtail the neutrals so removing one of the recepts wouldn't break it. Am I going to find other surprises in my wiring Probably. Almost every house I've ever lived in has had some (usually unpleasant) wiring surprises. Sometimes it's pros, but I suspect that more often it's DIYs. DIY wiring has been around for a long time, and too many DIYers don't learn code or proper techniques before plowing ahead.

It could be as simple as the opener circuits are longer and further off the ground surface, allowing for higher coupling in to the lines, or the GFCI device itself being more exposed. The electric field drives the strike from cloud to earth, but the large currents involved once current flows in the strike generate vary large magnetic fields. These fields induce currents in any conductor they intersect with. It does not matter if you have a static magnetic field and a moving conductor, or a varying magnetic field an a fixed conductor. A voltage is induced in the conductor based on the magnetic field strength, rate of change, and orientation of the conductor relative to the field. If the GFCI device itself is in the magnetic field it can have transients induced in its own circuitry, independent of anything in any wires hooked to it. The magnetic field could even couple into the magnetic pickup in the GFCI and cause the electronics to be saturated briefly and not operate correctly. Since GFCIs trip at around 0.005 amps (5 milliamps) of current difference sensed using a magnetic pickup (a toroid) between the hot and neutral they are very sensitive.