This is a common 'trick' for large loads like motors. By bringing out more of the motor windings from the stator the device can be used at more than one operating voltage. It increases the complexity of the windings though since they must be divided into appropriate sections and then the terminals made available. The same thing s done with motors designed for 120/240 V operation (not "high voltage" at all). It has littler to do with branch circuit wiring topology. You will notice we do not have 120 V bulbs and 60 V bulbs. This is what would be required to have some portion of alighting circuit in series and some portion in parallel. I personally do not do production wiring and use crimps for much at all. You will learn to dislike them when you start doing remodeling work and are no longer doing all 'new work'. I do charge extra when I am forced to deal with remodeling that has crimp connections. Simply cutting them off is often not an option since the remaining conductor length often then violates the minimum length required from the face of the junction box. I am sure it speeds up the 'production' installers though. Right now I have a house with a built in on one side of a wall, and a tile backsplash on the other in a kitchen. I need a couple new circuits for under-cabinet lighting. It looks like I will have to go through the back of the kitchen cabinets and fish upwards to the new junction boxes in the back of the upper cabinets. At least there are no crimps present in the boxes already containing some lighting switches.

I took our 3 yr old Kenmore dehumidifier apart to clean it up. It was very clean inside except one area where two ground wires are screwed onto a steel plate which in turn was tacked onto the evaporator which appears to be aluminum fins with copper gas tubes running through them. I'm thinking of removing the two grounds from the corroded plate and using a wire nut or Marr connector to join them together. Then add a third wire, probably #14 copper, from the wire nut to the copper tubes. I'm not sure how to connect this third wire onto the copper tubes though. Any suggestions?

We looked at wiremold and called the company. They say that their raceways are "listed" only if you splice THHN wires to the Romex before the wires enter the raceway. I did look at flexible conduit but it really looks awful. I talked with the contractor this morning. He is satisfied with my solution - using either the 2 strand or 3 strand, but we both prefer the 3 strand for better grounding. So I think we're on our way. Thanks for your comments.

You can't just twist the wires together and wrap the connections in electrical tape. At minimum, you need to use wirenuts or some other applicable device to hold the connection together. The new cable I have already purchased is twisted cloth covered cable - it's vintage inspired, therefore there is no ground wire You bought the wrong cable. Return it and get something with a ground wire too.