If you have a TSC, they should be able to get Goat panels. They are similar to the Cattle and Hog panels, except the squares are even over the whole panel. I think the squares are an even 3inches, so lambs can't reach thru and get heads stuck. Small squares are good so horse can't reach thru, or even get a good grip with teeth to bang wire around. Panels cost more, have more wire in them, but do a MUCH better job than bigger uneven holes of cattle and hog panels. Do grind off the sharp edges at ends where heavy wires are cut, so no one gets cut on them. Another idea is metal bars. We had bar stock laying around. Husband drilled the lower board of window, made round holes, but not all the way thru board. Then he did the same above only making holes cut thru board. He cut the bar steel, dropped bar lenths thru top hole, anchored bottom in lower window holes. Presto, barred front windows. Space them closely together, no more than 3inches apart. Shouldn't be able to get a hoof thru. Hoof will compress going in, then pop back wide if spaces are any larger. Your horse won't be pulling that hoof back out!! I would advise at least 3/4" steel. He used a round cutter, like they use for making door knob holes in doors. Just a much smaller size for the board holes to achor bars. Lightweight conduit does not make good bars, always bent or pulled out. Use conduit for covering wires to give you good lights in the stalls. If you check around locally, often you can find the frames to stall fronts, dividers. Buy and haul home in the horse trailer or flat trailer. Movable or temporary stalls may be a good option. You buy the frames, then you put the boards in yourself, hang the doors. With temporary stalls like these, you can take them when you leave barn. Or sell them. Rubber mats on floors make cleaning much easier, saving time and bedding. Easily removable when you leave. We use vice grips or C-clamps on the side to move them around. Good, heavy mats just are too much weight for finger tip handling!! Heavy mats stay in place better. TSC usually has the best prices, no shipping. Also on sale fairly often!! Pressure treated lumber stands up to moisture of urine, water spilled, well. Another option is sawmill lumber, white oak. Leave it rough, less likely to chew. It can be VERY heavy if green, like the pressure treated stuff. Do use galvanized nails, oak tannin rusts the heads off plain steel. Plain pine boards make good snacks!! Don't last long at all. Chain link fence stretches when pushed or rubbed, poor choice for horses, even free.

It's hard to say if their repairs were correct because I don't know what the real problem was. Let's say it's a wet room. There is a continuous waterproof membrane on the subfloor, both in the shower and outside the shower. Then a mud bed. Then tile. That's a case where the thinset and mud bed under the shower tile can wet, and the moisture in the shower mud bed can "plume out" under the shower partition wall and wet the mud and eventually the grout and tile on the bathroom floor. A "possible solution" without demoing the shower wall would be to remove a several inches of tile on the bathroom floor side of the saddle along the entire length of the glass partition wall. Dig out the mud to expose the membrane. I'd even undermine the saddle along its full length by digging back the mud about 1/2" back along the length of the saddle. I'd want the exposed membrane to be clean. If the vertical wall of mud under the saddle was coarse and rough, I'd then patch that vertical wall of mud under the saddle to make it smooth. I'd want the underside of the marble saddle to be clean. I'd then use a waterproofing membrane to tie the exposed floor membrane to the underside of the saddle. I don't know what type of membrane you have, but it would have to be compatible with the floor membrane. If you can use a paint-on membrane like Hydroban or RedGard, paint it on the floor membrane, on the smoothed vertical wall of mud under the saddle, and onto the bottom of the saddle. That will connect your floor membrane to the bottom of the saddle. Any moisture in the shower floor mud will now be contained within the shower footprint. Now pack new mud in the excavated area outside the shower and re-tile. It's not a perfect solution, it might not even be the right solution because that may not be how your shower is built. But it's an idea of how I would consider making repairs were I the one doing so. The problem I have with them patching the area around the door is: If it was not the door leaking and it is a capillary thing going on down below, depending on how they detailed the added membrane when they made the repair by the door, they might have simply masked the presence of the moisture down below. ie, the moisture is still there. And more moisture is being added every time you shower. But by adding waterproofing on top of the wet area, they might just be sealing moisture into the bed. So the marble by the door may appear drier because it's above the new waterproofing, but the mud below the new waterproofing is still wet. If the area in front of the door where they made the repairs dries and the area to the left of the door where they made no repairs remains wet, that's an indication that what they did was a band-aid cover-up and not a true repair. Again, there could be several possible causes and several possible repairs because there are several ways to build a shower. I'm guessing and supposing. I'll be gone for a few days, good luck with it all!

Thanks! The bathroom was just finished in April. Here's a link to my reveal on the bathrooms forum. I didn't list all of the details of fixtures and such but I guess I should have. Maybe I'll update it. The shower is in an alcove. My contractor made a custom pan so we could make it as large as possible. I think it is vinyl. I gained a few inches that way since I didn't have to use a standard size. The shower fixture is a Hansgrohe raindance shower pipe. I purchased on Amazon. My shower door was custom from a local shower door company. The floor tile is a 1"x2" Calacatta Gold marble herringbone from a local tile store. The subway and trim pieces are American Olean starting line white from Lowes. This was the only white subway I found that was a warm white instead of a bright white. I thought the color worked better with my floor. The grout is antique white on the floor and white on the walls. I haven't had a problem keeping it clean, but it is still fairly new. Here is a link that might be useful: Bath Reveal

Thanks much and beautiful showers! I am confused about the thermostatic valve. Is this something that I can buy separate and have it installed in the wall so that anytime I change out the shower handle/trim/valve it will automatically be there and still be accessible if it breaks and I need to change it? I hate to have more moving parts and things to break inside the walls. LIke this (although it looks like part of this would stick out of the wall?-another hole?: https://www.amazon.com/Rozin-Thermostatic-Mixing-Temperature-Control/dp/B01FAGWKTC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542006430&sr=8-3&keywords=thermostatic+control+valve#customerReviews  Or does do certain valves come with it like this?: https://www.amazon.com/Hansgrohe-04231000-Thermostatic-Control-Diverter/dp/B07FDFK5SM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542006430&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=thermostatic+control+valve&psc=1 I was wondering, also, it sets the temp but the initial issue of being cold while the water warms up since it has to run through the pipes would still be there, right? Problem is, I have chosen champagne bronze and if I need to get the thermostatic control valve built in I think that will be hard. I'm already having a hard time finding a handheld and shower head built into the same. I might have to get a separate handheld to divert water or I'm back to the initial question of do I just push the shower head over to shoot towards the wall before I turn on the H20 or go back to the idea of moving the control valve? Here's one of the options I was looking at for a showerhead before this discuss that I might need to adjust: https://www.amazon.com/58471-CZ-PK-H2Okinetic-4-Setting-Handshower-Showerhead/dp/B009MLXJN8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542006748&sr=8-2&keywords=shower+head+combo+with+handheld+champagne+bronze