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Electrical Wiring

Help-Wiring 3 way dimmer switch

15 years ago

Trying to add a 3 way dimmer switch in the basement. Tapping off the switch at the top of the basement stairs. There are 3 other wires coming into the box in addition to the 14-3 wire I am installing. One goes to the lights in the basement, another goes to the garage receptacles. these two have black wires inserted into the push holes in the back of the switch. I took the black hot wire from the 2 way switch and hooked it to the black screw on the 3 way switch. Then I took the red and black wires and hooked them to the other 2 terminals. Lastly, I put the white wire from the 14-3 with the other whites bundled together. I On the new dimmer switch, I tried every configuration possible to get this to work, without success. Any help is greatly appreciated. This is insane.

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Comments (5)

normel
15 years ago
Are the light you are trying to control now controlled by a single pole switch? Are you replacing that single pole with a 3 way and adding a 3way at another location?

If yes to both, then connect the incoming hot to the common (black) screw of the new 3way at the existing box, connect the black of the 14/3 to the black going to the light, and connect the red and white of the 14/3 to the other two screws of the 3way switch. Leave the whites already there alone.

At the new location, connect the black to the common (black) screw and the red and white to the other two screws.
rono7
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks. Yes, I am replacing a single pole switch with a 3 way and adding a 3 way. When you say connect the black of the 14/3 to the black to the light, do you mean wire nut them together? I believe I have tried this configuration already resulting with the dimmer switch having power but I can't get it to turn on/off and dim.
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No, what you did is fine. You can put the dimmer at either the load side or the power side of the three way circuit
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From the 2nd switch you only need two conductors, a hot and a neutral, going to the light. The hot will come from the "common" terminal on the switch. No reason to replace the cable, just leave the 3rd wire disconnected. Whomever wired it to begin with probably either had extra 14/3 around, or wanted flexibility, for example to power a fan and a light separately.
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Your diagram Shows 10 tracks with 3 heads on only 2 of the tracts that to me would add 6 openings towards the allowable code circurit breaker opening amount. If you continue onward with the remaining 10 tracts that would amount to 30 heads total 3 on each of the 10 different tracts. Most areas will allow 10 openings for 15 amp and 12 openings for 20 amp as long as the proper gauge wire is installed. When designing circurit breaker wattage loads consider also the heat that is being generated most people think loading it up 100% or to the just under tripping point is quite all right. There is a better way by not heating any circurit breaker up to no more than 80% of capacity leaving 20% in reserve it will operate much cooler. Then you have 3 way switching named OC & OD I am not clear what you mean by those letters? 3 way switching is no more than dumping line power on 1 end and and hot wattage load on the other end throw in a 4 way in the middle and you have 3 switching points. That is if the proper cables are installed to do so. Switching is unlimited to design, example the same light or lights can be switched from any location needed that means even wireless or web controlled. If you are uncertain what basic LINE, LOAD, NEUTRAL, GROUND terminology is than contact a quality local craftsman to do it properly the 1st time for you. And if you insist on doing the work yourself never mix a neutral wire into switching ever by doing so the light fixture is always energise with live power even with the switch off. Electrical energy even in the 120 volt ranges can kill you and burn you while to so
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shadetree_bob
15 years ago
I don't know how much experience you have wiring things so this may be way out of line, but I found an article about how to wire 3-way dimmers. It may help if you read it and you may get some new ideas about what is going on. The link below will take you to it.

http://www.rd.com/17791/article17791.html
normel
15 years ago
Thanks. Yes, I am replacing a single pole switch with a 3 way and adding a 3 way. When you say connect the black of the 14/3 to the black to the light, do you mean wire nut them together? I believe I have tried this configuration already resulting with the dimmer switch having power but I can't get it to turn on/off and dim.

yes wirenut them together and connect all others as described. It might help if you do this first with two standard 3way switches, then when all works, replace one with the dimmer... this will eliminate any problems with the dimmer itself.
joed
15 years ago
Leave all the wires in the box alone. You only need to work with the two wires currently connected to the switch.
Connect one of the wires to the black of your new cable. Connect the other to the common of the new three way.
Connect the red and white of the new cable to the traveler connections at both new switch and dimmer.
Connect the black at the new dimmer to the common of the dimmer.
Connect all grounds together.

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