I have used wireless switches for many years to do exactly what you want to do. Very few stores cary them - your best bet is buying on line. I have used both X-10 and Insteon brands - my new house is loaded with Insteon switches. You can buy them at www.smarthome.com. For your application, look at the 3-way dimmer kit which comes with two switches that are pre-programmed to work together. They make both decora paddle type and push button switches. You will need a hot & netutral wire at each switch location for these switches to work. The switches communicate wirelessly as well as over the neutral wire to provide a dual network. To work with maximum reliability, the neutrals connected to both switches should connected to the same breaker (best) or at least on the same phase - this allows the over wire signals to pass between the two switches. If you can't get an over wire path via neutral wires directly, the switches will still work through the wireless path but depending on the seperation - you might get some intermitant results.

It might be difficult to find a switch that will handle that kind of current. I have seen two-speed fans that draw more than that, but unless you find a surplus switch, I fear that you will be over budget since this seems like a miserly project. The least expensive way to do this might be to use a combo of surplus relays and a common three-way fan switch to control them. It might get a lot simpler or less expensive if you settle for two speeds.

What do things look like in the other switch box in the closet you are talking about? Harder to see is what wires enter and exit the box at the light. The simplest set-up for a home owner to deal with will have a single gang box with one non-dimming 3-way switch at each location, and just one (black/white/bare ground) cable and one (black/red/white/bare ground) cable in the box with the switch. The cable that contains the red should go from box to box and makes up the travelers. The black and red ends of this cable should land on the screws on the switch that are the same color as each other (usually not black). The other cable either comes from the panel (the feed in) or goes to the light (the feed out). Put the black from this cable under the unique colored screw (usually black and sometimes called the common or point). Splice together all of the white wires and use the bare ground to ground each other and the switch and the box if it's metal. If you have a different wire arrangement than this, (and there are several that are both different and correct), and if you have only a small amount of experience then you would probably be well served by hiring a pro. I personally can't recall ever seeing or installing a 3-way in a walk-in closet and the black conductor landed on the ground screw makes me think that you will end up hiring someone to sort this out. Good luck.

NEC 200.7(C) Circuits of 50 Volts or More. The use of insulation that is white or gray or that has three continuous white stripes for other than a grounded conductor for circuits of 50 volts or more shall be permitted only as in (1) through (3). (2) Where a cable assembly contains an insulated conductor for single-pole, 3-way or 4-way switch loops and the conductor with white or gray insulation or a marking of three continuous white stripes is used for the supply to the switch but not as a return conductor from the switch to the switched outlet. In these applications, the conductor with white or gray insulation or with three continuous white stripes SHALL BE PERMANENTLY REIDENTIFIED to indicate its use by painting or other effective means at its terminations and at each location where the conductor is visible and accessible. . http://freenec.com/T21.html