Thanks much! I'll give it a try!

Just make sure you don't overload the circuit. A 15amp circuit can safely supply 1440 watts of power. So add up the power requirements of your 10 track lights and make sure it's under that. And if it's close, make sure that there is nothing else on the circuit too.

Awesome, thank you so much, greg_2015!

Hi, greg_2015, Turns out the bulbs in our tracks add up to 1650 watts, and the switch we got has a max load of 600 watts. Do you know of any kind of commercial switch that dims output to lower levels? Know what I mean?

Well the wattage could be handled by using a 20 amp circuit instead (max is 1920 watts).

Regular toggle switches can handle that too. It's the fact that you want them on dimmers that throws a wrench into the works. I know you can get 1000 watt dimmers, but I'm not aware if there are bigger ones available.

I'd probably suggest that you look into different lighting options. Do you NEED all of those lights on one switch? Usually living areas are divided up into different areas and you'd want some areas lit and some areas not lit. How you use the space may determine a better lighting plan.

Or if you really want everything on one switch, look into using dimmable LEDs or something that draws a lot less power.

Thanks much, I think we're getting there. Much appreciate. :-)

Begin by adding your wattage load as described above then circurit breaker protect the series circurit of openings to current code. Line load switching as needed for operation of standard toggle off on, dimmer, or PLC programmable logic controller or a host of other switching options. The more efficient wattage is controlled, designed & installed the lower grid tied utility billing is required or eliminated altogether with alternative energy sources that produce grid quality electrical energy.

Your diagram

Shows 10 tracks with 3 heads on only 2 of the tracts that to me would add 6 openings towards the allowable code circurit breaker opening amount. If you continue onward with the remaining 10 tracts that would amount to 30 heads total 3 on each of the 10 different tracts. Most areas will allow 10 openings for 15 amp and 12 openings for 20 amp as long as the proper gauge wire is installed. When designing circurit breaker wattage loads consider also the heat that is being generated most people think loading it up 100% or to the just under tripping point is quite all right. There is a better way by not heating any circurit breaker up to no more than 80% of capacity leaving 20% in reserve it will operate much cooler. Then you have 3 way switching named OC & OD I am not clear what you mean by those letters? 3 way switching is no more than dumping line power on 1 end and and hot wattage load on the other end throw in a 4 way in the middle and you have 3 switching points. That is if the proper cables are installed to do so. Switching is unlimited to design, example the same light or lights can be switched from any location needed that means even wireless or web controlled.

If you are uncertain what basic LINE, LOAD, NEUTRAL, GROUND terminology is than contact a quality local craftsman to do it properly the 1st time for you. And if you insist on doing the work yourself never mix a neutral wire into switching ever by doing so the light fixture is always energise with live power even with the switch off. Electrical energy even in the 120 volt ranges can kill you and burn you while to so

My first thought is that 10 tracks with 3 bulbs each is a lot of light bulbs. Make sure they are the long lasting type, since they are usually hard to reach on a loft ceiling.

One option may be to split your lights into two banks.

Bank one would be a relatively bright set of lights that you turn on and off as you go up or down the stairs. You could put at least half the lights on that circuit, but may want more.

Bank two would be the dimmable set of lights, which you use when you want to adjust the lighting and get it down to a low level. Bank two is probably only used by someone in the loft, who may first turn off bank one to cut the overall light in half, and then adjust it to an even lower level by dimming bank two. The bank two switch would not even need to be on a 3 way that can be accessed from the bottom of the stairs, since the person using it will be in the loft.

Bruce

Most areas will allow 10 openings for 15 amp and 12 openings for 20 amp as long as the proper gauge wire is installed.

Huh?!? I'm pretty sure there isn't anything in the code that limits the number of 'openings' (which I assume you mean outlets) in a circuit. Plus, even if there was, a fixture with 10 bulbs in it would still only count as a single outlet. Or would you say that the bathroom vanity shown below would require 2 dedicated circuits to light up the mirror?!?

Maybe this is a rule of thumb that you like to follow, but it is no more than a preference and really doesn't apply in this case. You should not state it as a rule. The current draw is the important factor.

as always twist and turn greg2015 what I mean by opening is

You seem set in your ways with your remarks

Maybe this is a rule of thumb that you like to follow, but it is no more than a preference and really doesn't apply in this case. You should not state it as a rule. The current draw is the important factor.

The total wattage amount is the circurit design but turn it around any way you prefer. I am not making any rules or reporting false personal preference statements. Your photo of 14 bath vanity bulbs if that is the case? 14 X (load) if each bulb were 40 watt each = 560 total watts for your fixture is how I would interpret it to be? What I would say is that one dedicated circurit for your light would be just great not 2 but twist it around some more and make your comments as you will.

I'm not trying to twist your words. I'm trying to understand what you are trying to say. It REALLY sounded like you were saying her track lights would be 30 'openings' and only 10 are allowed.

Shows 10 tracks with 3 heads on only 2 of the tracts that to me would add 6 openings towards the allowable code circurit breaker opening amount.

It seems pretty clear that you are describing the 2 tracks that she fully drew as being 6 'openings'. Therefore if each track has 3 lights, you would interpret that as 30 'openings'.

Now you are saying 10 tracks is 10 'openings' and you were saying that all along?

Most areas will allow 10 openings for 15 amp and 12 openings for 20 amp.

This is a general guideline for the number of receptacles that you'd want on a general purpose circuit. Maybe some local jurisdictions even make this a rule, but it's receptacles (ie. the things you plug devices into).

It's not outlets (a general term which includes receptacles, lights, etc) and it's definitely not 10 light bulbs.

So bringing up this 'rule' when we are talking about lights just adds confusion to the conversation.

As I said, I'm not trying to twist your words. I'm trying to clarify what you are saying and separating the code requirements from your personal preferences. When you are trying to help people, you have to be as clear as possible. It's fine to state personal preferences, but you should make it clear that it isn't a requirement.

There might be some who would consider to throw it all on one circurit breaker and one set of 3 way switches? If each head had 1 60 watt light bulb that would be 1,800 watts if each of the 30 heads had that style of bulb. A 120 volt 15 amp circurit breaker can produce 1,800 watts if it is loaded up to 100% of capacity before overload and tripping occurred hopefully. (voltage X amperage = wattage)

Trying to determine room for future advancement yes may be above current codes and standards but it leaves a cushion and offers a more efficient operating system. As you know electrical codes are only the bare minimum required and you can never go below those standards of quality, craftsmanship and materials. But you can always go above code with quality craftsmanship and materials.

Have a good day Greg

Hey y'all, what we're doing is installing the 10 track lights in a huge room above a barn. It's going to be an activity room, basically, that can hold groups of people up to 40 or so.

8 of the tracks have 4 lights on them, the remaining 2 tracks have 3 lights.

Our lightbulbs are 55 watts, so I calculated that we're dealing with a total of 2090 watts.

We're going to use 2 switches at each of the 2 doors, which allows someone to turn on all the lights no matter which door they come in. One switch will control alternating tracks and will be on a dimmer. The other switch will control the remaining tracks and will not be on a dimmer. If both switches are on the room will be brightest. If we use only the dimmer switch, we can have a low light area if we choose. Make sense?

Hopefully I've cleared up anything confusing. Everyone here was awesome! Thanks again!

Also, the diagram wasn't clear enough, but it doesn't say OC and OD, it's got a circle to mark each location for each of the switches we plan to use. Diagram says 3-way, but we're planning to have each entry way with 2 switches, one for each bank of tracks. :-)

D B, that last post of yours was clear and concise and explained things clearly and didn't have any false or irrelevant information. Thank you. I know you probably think that I'm always 'attacking' you, but it's just that a lot of your posts seem to have misleading, incorrect, or irrelevant information. Maybe you type too fast and post without reading over what you wrote.

maggie,

The only issue that I see with your current plan with alternating lights being controlled by two different switches, is that if one set is on and the other is off, then it would be hard to tell which switch you'd have to flip to turn the other set on. Half the time, you'd accidentally turn all the lights off before flipping both switches to turn both sets on.

I feel like I'm having a hard time explaining what I mean.

If they were regular toggle switches, then you'd know that up is on and down is off. So if you wanted to turn the second set of lights on, you'd look at the switches and see which one is off and flip it on.

With 3-way switches, there is no way to determine if the switch is on or off. You'd look at the two switches and there would be no indication which one is already on and which one you need to flip to turn the second bank on.

As I typed that, I wonder if there is a three way switch that has an indicator light to show whether the lights are on or off.