Jani18, the Fantech ones I bought (one installed in our guest bath, one in the box awaiting installation in our master bath in about two weeks) are the ones with the halogen light. Fantech makes one with a compact fluorescent light which isn't big like the Panasonic, but I actually prefer the warmer (yellower) color of a regular light to the cooler (bluer) color of a fluorescent for the shower. And I like being able to dim the halogen light, which you can't do with the fluorescent, even though most times we'll probably just leave in on high. (I have rope light above and below our vanity and cabinets to use as a "night light", but if you don't otherwise have a built-in nightlight, then turning on the Fantech halogen light at a low setting on a dimmer would work well.) I'm quite happy with the model with the halogen light. Which model of Fantech fan? That depends on how large your bathroom is. Their smallest fan, the one I have, moves 110 cubic feet or air per minute (CFM) and is good for bathrooms up to roughly 100 square feet. Our guest bath is 7'x7', so the small fan is sufficient. The master bath we're redoing now is larger, but it's divided into two separate rooms for the shower & toilet and the sink & dressing table; we decided we only needed ventilation for the shower/toilet room, so the small fan is again the proper size for us. I therefore got the Fantech PB110H, which includes the fan, grille housing, and grille with halogen light. If your bathroom is bigger, Fantch offers a larger 190 CFM model, and 270 CFM model with two grilles, and even a 370 CFM model. The Fantech web page shows the options and model numbers, and explains how to calculate how big a fan you need. Fantech sells a timer switch, but I couldn't find out much information about it; it may be custom made for them. I decided to use Lutron, because it did exactly what I wanted and I could match it to the other light switches in the rooms. I'm using the one mentioned higher up in this thread, the Lutron MA-L3T251, which contains a light dimmer in the top half and a fan timer in the bottom half of a single size switch. I'm a big fan of Lutron's Maestro dimmers, which we have in a bunch of places in our house. They turn lights on and off with a gentle fade on and fade off over about a second, and once you set the lighting level you prefer, the light comes on to that level whenever you tap it. For the fan, you can preset it for just on/off, or 60, 45, 30 or 15 minute countdown. We have it on 60 minutes. Enter the bathroom, tap the button, take your shower and do your bathroom business, and it shuts off the fan an hour after you started. The fan is so quiet that unless you listen closely for it, you don't know its on; without a timer, I'm sure we'd be accidentally leaving it on all day with some regularity! The Lutron switch comes in a bunch of colors, with matching Claro wallplates; you won't find most of the colors in a box store or even most lighting stores, but lighting stores or online retailers can order any of the colors Lutron offers. We went to a lighting store which had sample chips of all the Lutron colors, so we could see which looked best with our tile. Hope that helps! -- Eric

power -- switch -- wire to light power -- switch -- wire to other switch This is what he said he had doesn't mater what he said about the rest any electrician that knows what he is doing can easily make the 3-way work with these wires. Obviously your not an electrician joefixit. He does have the light and power in one box but there is also power in the other box. The only reason you need to use a 3 wire is to send the neutral to the other switch so it can send it to the light. Well he has a neutral at the switch with the light according to what he said above. So if you tie the neutral through to the light cap off the hot on that side and don't use it you now have the neutral you need at the light. Land the black wire coming from the light to the black screw on the switch that is the common for that switch. Now according to what he said there is a wire running between the switches, so there should be a black and white in that wire, those are the travelers you now have your neutral, travelers, and common over at the switch going to the light. On the other side you have the power and the wire to the other switch so now you cap off the neutral cause you don't need it now cause there is one already going to the light after you do what I said earlier, the black hot wire is your common and it goes to the black common screw on the switch now there will be two wires left, according to what he said they are going in between the two switches so the black and white that are left are your two travelers. If your so sure this is wrong tell me how, because there is now way possible to make this not work unless the wire he said that were there arnt actually there I'm just going off the info given

My first thought is the switch is on a switch loop which you did not hook up. If the fan is worked from a pull chain and the light from a switch then you have to have two connections to the power line at the fan. One that goes directly to the fan and the second down to the switch and back again.

Thanks for the comments everyone. Yes, I did try to turn on and off the breaker at the power panel but that didn't work either. I ended up calling a professional and the problem had nothing to do with the disconnect switch. The transformer inside the AC unit was broken (super old and rusty) and needed to be replaced. The circuit board that controls the fan blower was also fried. The technician ended up also changing the contactor since it looked in bad shape (though it was still functioning). Not sure if me messing around with the disconnect caused the issue or if the timing was just a coincidence. But one thing that seems quite sure is that the defective transformer ended up also frying the circuit board...