wiring a boat dock to connect to generator

9 years ago

Hi All,
I've been browsing and reading this forum and decided to create an account and post here. Hopefully I can get the assistance I need to successfully complete my project...

I have a small boat shelter and dock area on a piece of land that has no grid power currently available. I've been running my boat lift, power tools, and battery chargers from an 8500watt generator when I need them. I would like to move away from that extremely loud rig so I can wire up a stereo, a few lights and a ceiling fan.

A few extra details:
-One day when I build and bring in grid power, I will hook this up to the grid and supply the panel from there
-I have some leftover items that I would prefer to use if they are appropriate but will use what I 'should' use to be ready in the future
-The generator I would like to move to (haven't bought yet) is either a Yamaha 2400ishc or similar (2kw range inverter generator)
-My boat lift circuit is rated for 1.8kw max and the motor surges to 1.5kw on startup
-I have not bought lights yet but would spend extra on lower power lights to allow me to utilize ~2kw inverter generator
-I have already decided on the ~2kw generator and would like to design this interim (several years) solution until I build and can bring in grid power

I currently have (but will buy whatever is appropriate):
-a spool of 10/3
-a spool of 12/2

My first draft plan (looking for help here)
-8' ground rod at the shore to a power inlet box (essentially at a stub up where I can connect to the grid in the future)
-30amp power inlet box
-run 10/3 with red capped off since I'll be connecting my 120v generator to a power panel
-6 breaker power panel with 1 or 2 15a or 20a breakers installed (1 for the lift and 1 for the radio and a few lights)

Swapping between my 8.5kw generator and a ~2kw generator is not trivial so I think if I need the 240 for anything I will simply use the outlet in the 8.5kw generator.
Looking for advice all around on this. Thank you!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (5)

Ron Natalie
9 years ago
You may wish to get a copy of the NEC and read up Article 555. Make sure your boxes, etc... are fully gasketed watertight. Make sure all exposed metal is grounded. Make sure that any cordage used is appropriately rated (including SUNLIGHT and WET LOCATIONS). Make sure you provide GFCI protection.

If you have are installing a shore power line to the boat it must be at least 30A.
lectricn00b
Original Author
9 years ago
Hi ronnatalie- I checked 555 and am not sure that I was clear what I am wiring to. I have a private boat shelter on a private lot that has a boat lift currently (that I power with a generator). NEC 555 appears to cover a much broader and more commercially oriented setup but seems rational overall.
I have a couple of questions:
-What is the recommended wire to run from a 20A GFCI breaker to an outlet in a boat shelter? Is it supposed to be something like underground feeder wire?
-Any ideas for getting that 8' ground rod into the ground when I have no water (really liked the hose connected rod approach I saw on youtube)?
-Is the code saying that I need to have those plastic covers over EACH outlet box even if it is covered if it is less than 8' from the floor level in the dock?
-same for the switches--is there a special type of one that is appropriate for this?
-When I did my hot tub (another property) I used a hot tub disconnect box near the hot tub. Is something like this suitable for the stub up on the shore where I plan to plug in my generator to power the line down the dock to the panel?

It looks like my existing wiring is of no use in this install -- figures :)

Thanks for the help.
Related Discussions
Diagnosing Engine starting problems
Q
Comments (26)
You guys have been VERY helpful - wish i could buy you all a beer... Turns out the engine is a Tecumseh and NOT a Briggs & Stratton ... No where on the engine did it say Tecumseh - I finally found a sticker on the side of the engine with some numbers which turned out to be sears parts numbers and then finally I traced a part number to 36680 (a tecumseh Starter motor part number) Anyhow - i found a couple of aftermarket starters for the about $49-59 dollars a real Tec. Starter (#36680) is about $125 bucks (definitely not going to happen). I question the value of this tractor no cutting deck, rough shape, etc. --- I would not pay $50 dollars for the tractor - So Im not sure I would spend the $50-60 to actually repair it... As suggested - I will continue to search for a bargain starter - I know if I wait long enough Ill get it for a good price... BUT to confuse things further - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Today I ran into someone who put out an older Snapper lawn mower with a 8hp Briggs and a 30ish inch cutting deck onto their front lawn (for free!) Its rough - but its free... (wow - that 8HP B+S engine is a lot bigger than the 8hp tecemseh engine) Its a pull start unit (no electric starting), owner tells me it will fire up with starting fluid but wont run, it did run last spring... So Im thinking Ill "grab her snapper" - toss the sears tractor (but keep the tecumseh motor just in case). And work the Briggs motor/carb into something usable.... QUESTIONS: -- - - - - -- - - - - - - 1. Do any of you happen to know if theres enough meat on the back of that funky looking Snapper tractor to mount my crumy little ball hitch to drag around my trailers? The Snapper Im talking about looks roughly like this one http://www.snapper.com/rear_engine_riders.html except older i did not think to look for that when i was looking the snapper over... 2. Do any of you know if the engine mounting bolt patterns for a 8HP Tecumseh and a 8HP B&S engine are the same??? Granted the snapper has the mowing deck (but I got a scotts 2046 for mowing). The sears is a good slow mule for my intentions of moving trailers, moving stone and logs around the property Plus im gonna have to take the pully into consideration (that sounds messy)... im guessing crank diameters dont match... 3. Do you think the Snapper has a torque-y transmission transaxle (whatever it has under there) to do roughly what Im doing with my Sears? The Snapper Im talking about looks roughly like this one http://www.snapper.com/rear_engine_riders.html Im thinking the Snapper might be a good choice Your thoughts please Mucho Thanks - Dave
...See More
Generator grounding on a boat slip -- help !
Q
Comments (7)
In the US, even if it is a "permanent" portable genset, but is hooked up via the recetpacle on the control panel, NO ground rod is required. The neutral and ground of the genny circuits remain bonded to the genset frame. A permanent genset hard wired to your home must be connected to the grounding electrode system of the house.
...See More
Type of wire to run as a ground
Q
Comments (16)
"The NEUTRAL bar is only legal in certain specific instances. Otherwise, even though it is ultimately grounded, it is not legal to provide equipment grounding connections." To use your own words, you are "wrong". Unless there is a separate ground bar in the panel that is properly connected to the neutral bar with a proper sized bonding jumper, it is the ONLY place in the panel to land a egc. THE ONLY PLACE. Do you get it now? The entire reason to bond the neutral to the ground rod and water line (within 10' from wher it enters the building) is to provide a path for fault current back to the neutral (xo in a transformer, or the "bullseye" as some refer to it) So you are saying that in the situation of the OP, equipment grounding conductors ARE NOT to be ran to the neutral bar in the panel? That's quite amusing to me. If one was to run a new 12-2 nm cable for a new circuit would you then just NOT land the egc of that nm cable in the panel on the neutral bar which is bonded to the ground rod and water line? What then would you do with it? Think about it. Of course you would land it on the neutral bar in the panel. That is where it goes, of course if there was a ground bar secured to the panel tub and bonded to the neutral bar then all grounds should be on the ground bar and all neutrals on the neutral bar and there shall be only one point of connection between them in the panel, by a properly sized bonding jumper. But thanks for once again trying to make be look bad for some reason, just to make yourself feel smarter I guess. "Your subsequent response was incorrect and unsafe." Sorry, you're wrong again. My ingormation is just different than yours, and in compliance with the NEC. Man you are quite the "high and mighty" type aren't you? I'm done with this thread because I actually have more important things to tend to than trying to calm an electrical egomaniac. Go ahead and cut others down to your hearts content but I'll not give you the satisfaction of wasting any more of my time. Good luck to the OP.
...See More
Generator Wiring
Q
Comments (12)
Sorry David I have to disagree on some points. It is possible to get a large volume of hydrogen with a fairly low amount of amperage but it takes a large plate surface area and they have to be very close together. The problem is with run of the mill materials like stainless... the impurities in the water and metal will eventually foul and short the plates. If you think it is impossible to produce enough hydrogen efficiently enough to compete with the oil usage you are mistaken. The government likes hydrogen as long as it is derived from petroleum products. I have a degree in automotive mechanics and electronic systems and monitored things when I 'tinkered'. Exhaust gas temp.. wideband oxygen sensing along with monitoring the regular computer sensors. I do agree that is not practical to build a hydrogen generator OR buy one off Craigslist or Ebay and think that you will double your mileage or even gain 10% for long term. The materials are not readily available for the average person to obtain to build such a unit for a decent price. I am not any sort of tree hugging greenbody but I do like to have a efficient home so I keep more of my money in my wallet than send it in the mail. I do like testing and trying things or trying to make something better faster or more efficient. If no one did what this gentleman is trying to do or other things people say are impossible we would not have inventors or new breakthroughs and would rely solely on China and other countries. WE need a breakthrough to get away from so much oil usage and that is a fact... dynamic fuels in Canada already has a system for big trucks that works and is installed on some trucks running in the US and it works good. The person who started this topic might be on wrong track but if he does his testing he will figure that out and go from there. If I am part of the holy-grail of the 'over-unity' crowd, at least I am not sitting around waiting for China or some other country to spoon feed me the next technological breakthrough. As far as my testing... I did not error in my measurements... the car got very good GAS mileage along with the water consumption which was slight. Building the plates does not fit into my schedule to make it worthwhile. It can be done... and I hope it is some greasy handed american dropout who builds a system that gets us away from so much oil usage that still allows us to have noisy exhaust and something other to listen to than the hum of an electric motor.
...See More
Ron Natalie
9 years ago
You need to use 12g wire most likely but in a cable or conduit that is approved for wet locations as well as sunlight.

Big hammer (or the rod slamming tool).

You need to use the appropriate waterproof boxes. If you're likely to leave things plugged in, you need the in-use cover.

Despite how much you don't think you have to comply with 555, you do.

They make waterproof enclosures that work an internal (traditional) snap switch.

Again, you must use wet rated boxes for everything.
lectricn00b
Original Author
9 years ago
Got it. I'm on board with 555, not just because it's the code but because it's hard to argue against it -- it makes good sense and I want my work safe.

So now for the part about hooking up the generator:
What'd I'd like to do is at the stub up near where the dock meets the shore, I'd like to put in the power transfer box. Someday, when I build a house I will replace it with power from the grid; today I would like to just put in a box to power from a quiet generator.
-If I put in a 30A power transfer and run 10gauge to the breaker box (that I have yet to buy or install) is it appropriate to use only 3 of the wires (white black ground) and cap off one for eventual use with grid power?
-The reason I want to do it that way is so that I can run the wire once and use it later when I get more power. Alternatively, I can put the gennie on the land and just run an extension cord but then there's a cord running down the dock.
-What is your recommendation on power transfer?
-What is your recommendation on the size of the breaker panel (I am planning on 100W of lighting, a stereo of say 200W, a ceiling fan ~150W, and my boat lift 1.5kw to start and not sure the operating load--will need to use my killawatt)?
-My thoughts were to buy one that would house 4 breakers: 1 for electrical outlets, 1 for lighting and fan, 1 for boat lift, and 1 unused.

I'm not looking forward to beating the grounding rod into the ground though.
Thank you!
ionized_gw
9 years ago
Pay attention to the power factor of any non-incandescent lights. Poor power factor "energy saving" lamps are all over the residential market. You don't pay for the extra power that they use, compared to good power factor stuff when using grid power, but your genset will notice. Commercial fluorescent and LED lamps have a good power factor. (1 is a perfect power factor. 0.9 and up are good whereas 0.5 is crappy.)

Got rocky ground?

wiring a boat dock to connect to generator

Comments (5)

Ron Natalie

lectricn00b
Original Author

Related Discussions

Ron Natalie

lectricn00b
Original Author

ionized_gw

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

wiring a boat dock to connect to generator

Comments (5)

Ron Natalie

lectricn00bOriginal Author

Related Discussions

Ron Natalie

lectricn00bOriginal Author

ionized_gw

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

lectricn00b
Original Author

lectricn00b
Original Author