> All ELECTRIC dryers are 220v Not true - there are some electric dryers that will run on 110v/15A. GE makes two of them, one with the controls on the bottom (for stacking over a washer) and one with the controls on the top. Whirlpool has one too. The GEs have larger capacity and easier to clean lint filters, but the Whirlpool has a proper moisture sensor to shut it off when the clothes are dry; i think the GE just uses a thermostat which is less accurate. Still, if at all possible at a reasonable price - i.e. you don't need a new electric box to fit a 220v circuit breaker in ($$$), or live in an old apartment complex where you're not allowed to muck with the electrical service - have an electrician install a 220v/30a circuit. The resultant dryer will have access to 5500w rather than 1200w, and thus dry your clothes in considerably less time. You'll also have a much larger selection of dryers to choose from.

An update on where things ended up... The electrician advised me that I have 100amps at 600v/3 phase which translates to 300amps at 110v. So I've got lots of power. He's going to run a sub-panel from my breaker panel to my dimmers, and include 16-24 outlet plugs at 20amps/110v and a couple of 220v'ers. He advised that we don't need to turn of the master power to the master breaker, and can leave the rental units with their power on while the work takes place. He also informed me something fascinating about the dimmer packs. I had thought that if I have a 500 watt light plugged in, but I dim it to 10%, I would only be using 50 watts of power. Apparently this is not the case, and I continue to draw the full 500 watts. However only 50 watts goes to the light and the rest gets drawn by the dimmer pack. No wonder my electricity bill is so damn high. In total he's advised me it will be one full day's work. S

The 50A 2-pole breaker should be (in effect) a pair of 50A single-pole breakers tied together. The replacement single breaker should be sized according to your stove's installation guide. As I recall, NFPA 70 allows light duty (e.g., a clock) devices to operate on this circuit, but it cannot be a general purpose circuit supporting other kitchen appliances. I'm not sure if the latest code requires it to be GFCI protected, even if blocked by the stove from being used for other functions.

Assuming you are in the US or Canada, if your 220V compressor was running off a black and white wire (with a separate ground/green wire), your wiring was labelled incorrectly; the white wire was being used as a hot leg and its color should have been changed from white to red, or blue, or anything else. Not white (or green). White is always neutral, never a hot leg. So, you have 2 hot legs, a ground and no neutral wire present to power the compressor. The answer to your question is, no, you cannot legally get 120V from your current wiring setup.