Electric ranges normally need a 50a outlet, which is why the adapter is configured as such. 30a is for electric dryers. Failing an adapter with appropriate fuse for the amperage draw of a 120v gas range, you'll need to hire an electrician to reconfigure the circuit with proper breaker size or DIY it if you're able.

When you say "converting my electric range to gas" Do you really mean you currently have an electric range and now you are buying a Gas range? ( God I hope that's what you mean)

There are no "converters" that I know about but you could have an electrician convert your wall socket and also change the breaker size to the correct rating for your new range

I am buying a new gas range, replacing the electric - sorry if this wasn't clear. And you are right - the socket is a 50A type for the electric range. Guess I could run a new 120V outlet - easier than converting the 220V socket & panel I would think.

Is the adapter I linked to valid? It's a 50A socket (though a different one that I have) that claims to just grab a hot and neutral for the 120V.

Thanks Jakvis, appreciated. The does seem like the best (and safest) solution.

The 50A 2-pole breaker should be (in effect) a pair of 50A single-pole breakers tied together. The replacement single breaker should be sized according to your stove's installation guide. As I recall, NFPA 70 allows light duty (e.g., a clock) devices to operate on this circuit, but it cannot be a general purpose circuit supporting other kitchen appliances. I'm not sure if the latest code requires it to be GFCI protected, even if blocked by the stove from being used for other functions.

"As I recall, NFPA 70 allows light duty (e.g., a clock) devices to operate on this circuit, but it cannot be a general purpose circuit supporting other kitchen appliances."

You have that a bit jumbled.

Conceded. Not having a gas range, I didn't pay much attention to differences in its code requirements.

We do need to know, however, whether this gas range uses a receptacle, or has to be hard wired, as do many modern ranges and cooktops.

Just because a range does not come with a cord, does not mean it has to be hard wired. The appliance needs a disconnect, which can be a cord. Otherwise, the choice is left to the designer of the electrical system, with certain stipulations.

This range has a standard 3-prong plug & cord. Good info here and all the more reason to convert the dedicated 220V line rather than tapping into some other 110V circuit. And given it's a 'true' convection (meaning there's a heater involved with the fan) need to handle the potential power req'ts.