I used sillites and checked with my municipality's electrical inspector beforehand to make sure my applications followed code. One I set into the end of a stud wall behind my fridge to avoid placing it smack dab in the middle of my peninsula's end panel, ugly for the whole world to see. (It still needed a longer screw to pull it tightly in when I took this pic.) I used another at the back of my island to satisfy code for outlets on both sides of my island's prep sink. The footprint is much smaller than a duplex outlet, and works well for when code dictates an outlet but you don't want to use a large, duplex outlet for aesthetic reasons. Code can be so frustrating sometimes!

Thank youall for your helpful suggestions. I think there is concensus that permission is needed from the AHJ for applying one of the exceptions, even if there is disagreement about which exception and why. I think the multiple answers given support my sense that the NEC is incomplete in this area (not that it is ambiguous). As a generator of requirements documents myself, I am aware of how difficult it is to make them address every case. So far, I have supplemented the 2008 Code with Mullin's just printed 16th edition as a guide. It does not address this issue, or define 'wall space.' The Stallcup page bus_driver referenced above did not address the long window issue either. I haven't found any Code committee minutes that are applicable. I would consider purchasing any other published guide (preferably updated to the 2008 Code) that brickeyee or others of you recommend. kas

I appreciate all your responses. It would be completely wonderful if there had been a KD I'd been working with since the beginning of the build. However, we purchased the house in process (90% complete) from the owner. Then we found a new builder to finish up because the old builder didn't have the greatest reputation for client/sub-contractor relations. All we had was a set of blue prints and a house. No input really from anyone. No extra materials. Nothing. The cabinets are beautiful. The original owner is a cabinet maker. There was power at the island, but inside a cabinet. For code, we had to put outlets on the outside. No one asked me where I wanted them, the electrician just cut a hole and stuck it in there. Then later, the electrician learned from the inspector we needed TWO! Again, without asking me, and after a huge "talk" with the builder's supervisor about not cutting into ANYTHING without asking me where, etc. The electrician made yet another terrible cut for the second outlet. So, the outlets are in place, and it looks like we will have to have two new panels made and have the outlets appropriately placed later. I'm fine with there being outlets, I just want them to look the best they can. I don't really love the Mockett solution simply because I don't want to cut anymore holes in my granite. I guess I'll just have to find the least obtrusive outlets I can and plates that blend with the wood and forget about it. Texasredhead talked me out of plugmold! (For good reasons, btw.) And about the screen name... because of the late arrival on the project, I had tons of decisions to make in a short time. Decorative lighting, plumbing fixtures, flooring, backsplash tile, glass, paint colors, railing, granite, appliances, etc. It's been extremely difficult for me. Believe me, you don't want to go shoe shopping with me. I have to try on every pair in the entire mall that I like, and then I decide! So, making these selections was quite painful. I felt like I needed to see everything before I could make a decision! So, between being unable to make a decision and being a true perfectionist, I'm driving just about everyone crazy, including myself! Things are coming along, though and I have very few decisions left. Now it's all up to the subs to get the work completed!

scrappy, I wanted to wait on talking to the inspector until I understood better what the options (if any) would be. I don't know your experience, but mine, though limited, has been that some inspectors are helpful, some not, and none should ever be "pressed" to answer in advance of having the work ready for inspection. I think "pressing" means asking for an answer when the inspector doesn't know either. The one I spoke with was in between. He read the NEC code section 422 something to me that deals with dishwashers. I had read that when googling and reading forums (I did not tell him) but I knew that did not address my situation. He (the code) said that the DW could plug in with a plug wire that was not less than 3' nor more than 4' running to a switch under the sink. (The switch would be the required disconnect in an accessible location.) Fine, that's the way most are done because most DW are right next to the sink. But then I tried to delicately "press" about the intervening 9" cabinet, because code requires the switch to be in an "adjacent" space. I asked if the wire could run through the 9" cabinet to under the sink, just as the DW discharge would be doing. He sounded defensive and said he would have to look up the code definition of "adjacent". I already knew the code does not define "adjacent". Then he said just hard wire it and put a lock out thingy (that wasn't his word) on the fuse in the main. I decided I'd better stop there, thanked him for his help. So, what I have learned (for my jurisdiction) if the DW is not going to be directly next to the sink: 1) Check first whether your DW will give a choice of plug in or direct wire. (He did say he goes by whatever the manu booklet says). From my researching I believe that going to plug in is already trending and may become standard by the manufacturers. It may become an NEC requirement based on pending NEC revisions for 2017. However, there may need to be additional clarification/resolution on "accessibility". The "accessible with no tools" seems to be an issue for a DW that has retaining screws. The "adjacent" requirement not only needs to be defined but also the running of a "soft wire" through cabinets needs to be clarified. It may be that a DW plug wire running through cabinets does not fall under the prohibition of having soft wires in a wall, which everyone already knows is a no-no. And if it is OK to run the wire through one cabinet wall (which presumably it is since putting the outlet under the sink requires the wire to go through a cabinet wall anyway), why is running it through more than one cabinet wall a problem? (My 9" cabinet would be within the 3'-4' but more intervening cabs could be a problem.) 2) Electrical wiring forums (I googled many) show that there is uncertainty as to both current and pending code for DW wiring when the DW is not directly adjacent to the sink cabinet as well as what "accessible" means for a plug in appliance that is not immediately removable without tools (toaster oven on counter top versus DW with retaining screws). 3) The most practical solutions, with explanations justifying the possible contradictions, on forums is to run the plug to a GFIC outlet under the sink. The less appreciated method is the old fashioned direct wire with the thingy on the circuit breaker in the main box. No one seems enamored with that which may be a reason for the code to be under revision. However, right now at least, that old way would still meet code (in my jurisdiction). 4) I suspect that if I applied for the permit and had the plug run through the 9" cabinet to a GFCI outlet under the sink that it would pass inspection because doing it that way makes sense of the code. Apparently when the code does not define a particular word, then dictionary definitions can be used to supply the meaning. "Adjacent" means "near"; directly adjacent means "right next to". No one would ever have to say "directly adjacent to" if "adjacent to" already means "directly". 5) I may wait a few months to apply for a permit with he hope that the inspector forgets that someone called and pressed him on "adjacent". I think what I am going to do is have the plug run through the 9" cabinet to a GFCI under the sink and also have the holes in the sides of the cabinets have the wire protected with cable management grommets (to prevent any abrasion). I strongly suspect from what I've been reading that through a few cabinet is what is typically done and if this inspector sees it that way he won't think anything about the meaning of "adjacent". As a HO, I want my plug to be in the most likely place - under the sink. If it doesn't pass I'll have it rewired and a thingy place on the circuit breaker.