Where are you located? I'm in BC, and our electrical inspector was fine with hard wiring the dishwasher directly behind it.

In WA, our electrician explained that it is "officially" exposed under the DW since the kickplate area of the DW is removeable (for that purpose/partially that purpose). I was surprised, but didn't argue :)

Interesting. Please come back and let us know what the Electrical Wiring folks say about this, OK? Hope it works out for you. That's definitely something we need to be aware of when helping with designs.

The issue is the length allowed for appliance cords. Move the outlet into the cabinet next to the DW and it's not a problem at all, from anyone. A few areas of the country do require hardwiring the DW, but the vast majority require a secondary disconnect (other than the required dedicated breaker in the service panel) be within short range usage, thus the short cord and plug in the adjacent cabinet.

jcollins84, benjesbride - NJ

LWO - the outlet cannot go in the back of the intervening 9" cabinet because it has the Rev-a-Shelf organizer so that the back wall of the cabinet is not exposed. NEC defines "accessible" for an outlet as an outlet which can be accessed without tools or a ladder. It takes tools to get the dishwasher out because of the retaining clips, so behind the DW is not accessible. If the Rev-a Shelf can be lifted off its tracks and out (I don't have it yet so I can't check this out) I guess that could meet the definition of accessible without tools. But that sure seems dumb to me when running the wire with the plug on it through that 9" to an outlet fully visible and reachable under the sink would definitely be accessible. Wouldn't under the sink be the first place to look for a cord to unplug? But there is something about the cord being a "soft wire" that isn't supposed to be run through an additional cabinet, and also NEC says the outlet has to be in a space "adjacent to" the fixed appliance.

I like kirkhall's electrician.

funkycamper, I will report back when it's sorted. I am really going to be po'd if this becomes major or undoable because I moved that 9" cab to be between the sink and DW with the Rev-a-Shelf because it was going to be much more convenient and usable space. My plan is to put soaps, dish cloths, cleaning stuff there instead of under the sink.

Can the cutout between the sink cabinet and the rev a shelf cabinet for the water and drain hoses be made large enough that you can have the plug behind the middle cabinet but be able to reach in and unplug it from under the sink? It's a stupid workaround but it might meet the letter of the law...

What's on the other side of the DW? Nothing says that the plug has to be on the sink side.

LWO - It's a void. Instead of a blind corner cab I chose a cab with drawers along the wall there, perpendicular to the DW. But you're right - a blind cab or straight cab would have allowed for an accessible outlet and plug, just as under the sink would.

fishcow, I think I understand what you're suggesting. A big chunk - window - on the rear side of the sink cabinet to be able to see and disengage the plug from an outlet in the 9" cabinet, once the organizer is pulled out. Hmm. Maybe. The back vertical piece of the organizer would hide the outlet until the organizer is pulled out . . . Isn't having to try to find a work around creating bizarre scenarios to try to meet NEC definitions really stupid?!! If it could just go under the sink anyone could find it!

The revashelf thing will pull out without tools.

Not sure I follow all the explanations above but can the cord travel though open toekick area to the sink base if the toekick is removable? Then only goes through the floor of the sink base.

scrappy25, my understanding from 2 electricians and a question I asked a long time ago on the electrical wiring forum is that a wire on the floor where cabinets are must be in a metallic sheath (thinner though than those great thick ones for the high amp appliances), coming from a metal box and ending in a metal box. That is how wiring many times is run for an outlet on a peninsula. It has to do with the wire being protected from crushing and abrasion wear. So a cord, even a heavy one, that we normal people would think of as an appliance cord with plug, could not be run along the floor even if we would think that it was protected. I guess that is to protect some future user who may pull appliances or a cabinet or something across the cord or decide to cut a hole in the floor.

(I should say, our DW outlet was sideways, near the floor, so you *can* see it (if you are laying on the floor, peering under the DW) with the kickplate removed. It isn't behind the DW; entirely. It is "under" the DW.)

And I still like your electrician, kirkhall! Seems to be a good hack, with a gfic of course in case of leaking. Could be a bear to replug though!

Have you called to talk directly to the inspectors? My county ones were very helpful in the design phase when I was trying to figure out my dishwasher plumbing connections since I have a corner cabinet with a Lemans pullout between my sink and dishwasher. They said I could run the plumbing through the toekick space as long as the toekick was removable. The electrical was not an issue for my dishwasher since mine was hard wired. However I did call the electrical inspectors about electrical outlets on my screened porch and they had some good suggestions about that in the design phase. Sorry if I missed that you have already done so.

scrappy, I wanted to wait on talking to the inspector until I understood better what the options (if any) would be. I don't know your experience, but mine, though limited, has been that some inspectors are helpful, some not, and none should ever be "pressed" to answer in advance of having the work ready for inspection. I think "pressing" means asking for an answer when the inspector doesn't know either.

The one I spoke with was in between. He read the NEC code section 422 something to me that deals with dishwashers. I had read that when googling and reading forums (I did not tell him) but I knew that did not address my situation. He (the code) said that the DW could plug in with a plug wire that was not less than 3' nor more than 4' running to a switch under the sink. (The switch would be the required disconnect in an accessible location.) Fine, that's the way most are done because most DW are right next to the sink. But then I tried to delicately "press" about the intervening 9" cabinet, because code requires the switch to be in an "adjacent" space. I asked if the wire could run through the 9" cabinet to under the sink, just as the DW discharge would be doing. He sounded defensive and said he would have to look up the code definition of "adjacent". I already knew the code does not define "adjacent". Then he said just hard wire it and put a lock out thingy (that wasn't his word) on the fuse in the main.

I decided I'd better stop there, thanked him for his help.

So, what I have learned (for my jurisdiction) if the DW is not going to be directly next to the sink:

1) Check first whether your DW will give a choice of plug in or direct wire. (He did say he goes by whatever the manu booklet says). From my researching I believe that going to plug in is already trending and may become standard by the manufacturers. It may become an NEC requirement based on pending NEC revisions for 2017. However, there may need to be additional clarification/resolution on "accessibility". The "accessible with no tools" seems to be an issue for a DW that has retaining screws. The "adjacent" requirement not only needs to be defined but also the running of a "soft wire" through cabinets needs to be clarified. It may be that a DW plug wire running through cabinets does not fall under the prohibition of having soft wires in a wall, which everyone already knows is a no-no. And if it is OK to run the wire through one cabinet wall (which presumably it is since putting the outlet under the sink requires the wire to go through a cabinet wall anyway), why is running it through more than one cabinet wall a problem? (My 9" cabinet would be within the 3'-4' but more intervening cabs could be a problem.)

2) Electrical wiring forums (I googled many) show that there is uncertainty as to both current and pending code for DW wiring when the DW is not directly adjacent to the sink cabinet as well as what "accessible" means for a plug in appliance that is not immediately removable without tools (toaster oven on counter top versus DW with retaining screws).

3) The most practical solutions, with explanations justifying the possible contradictions, on forums is to run the plug to a GFIC outlet under the sink. The less appreciated method is the old fashioned direct wire with the thingy on the circuit breaker in the main box. No one seems enamored with that which may be a reason for the code to be under revision. However, right now at least, that old way would still meet code (in my jurisdiction).

4) I suspect that if I applied for the permit and had the plug run through the 9" cabinet to a GFCI outlet under the sink that it would pass inspection because doing it that way makes sense of the code. Apparently when the code does not define a particular word, then dictionary definitions can be used to supply the meaning. "Adjacent" means "near"; directly adjacent means "right next to". No one would ever have to say "directly adjacent to" if "adjacent to" already means "directly".

5) I may wait a few months to apply for a permit with he hope that the inspector forgets that someone called and pressed him on "adjacent". I think what I am going to do is have the plug run through the 9" cabinet to a GFCI under the sink and also have the holes in the sides of the cabinets have the wire protected with cable management grommets (to prevent any abrasion).

I strongly suspect from what I've been reading that through a few cabinet is what is typically done and if this inspector sees it that way he won't think anything about the meaning of "adjacent". As a HO, I want my plug to be in the most likely place - under the sink. If it doesn't pass I'll have it rewired and a thingy place on the circuit breaker.