On the Bluestar, the ignitors act both to start the fire and to sense that the flame is still present. Since your problems are all on the right hand side, here is what I would check: Remove the right side grates and bowls, front and rear. This will reveal the front and rear burner burner assemblies. Now, dim the lights in the kitchen and try to light the right REAR burner. You should see sparking at all the burners except for the right rear, the one that won't light. But do you see anything sparking down underneath along the wire feeding the rear burner? With all valves off, reposition the wire, making sure the bullet connector is pressed tightly together. Inspect the ignitor itself. Is it cracked? If it is, the ignitor spark will emerge too low on the burner body to ignite the flame. When one burner alone won't light, suspect the ignitor (fouled by spills or boilovers or cracked) or the orange wire feeding it. You can easily determine if the ignitor is faulty by swapping it out with one of the known good ignitors. The ignitors are held in place by a small Phillips head machine screw on the underside of the burner. The leads just unplug from the feeds by a simple pull-apart bullet connector. Swap the ignitors front and rear. If the front is the one that won't light now, then the the problem is the ignitor. If the front works still and the rear still doesn't, the problem is in the wire leading from the ignition module to the burner or further upstream in the module itself (very unlikely). As far as the range continuing to click even after the front right burner is ignited, check the position of the ignitor to insure that the electrode of the ignitor is sitting in or very close to the flame. With everything cool, loosen the screw holding the ignitor in position slightly and then bias the ignitor so that the electrode is as close to being in the flame as possible. You can also, (very G-E-N-T-L-Y) take a pair of needle nose pliers and bend the electrode in and down a little bit so that it is closer to the flame. If the electrode is bathed in flame the clicking should stop once the burner ignites. If it doesn't the problem will have to be traced back towards the ignition module, likely by a service call. But chances are just positioning the ignitor probe a litte bit closer to the flame will fix that. And if you keep having problems with a single ignitor call Bluestar and have them send you a replacement and a spare.

Yes to another valve - at the equipment pad. You will have to set the valves up in a way to ensure you don't run the pump dry. For my pool (no spa) I have a 3-way that connects the skimmer and the suction cleaner line. This then connects to a 3-way with the main drain and goes off to the pump. If the system closed off the skimmer, but no cleaner was in the pool, then water would still be drawn from the main drain. If you have one skimmer it could be set up like the waterfall schematic on page 8 of the Jandy created file at: http://www.jandy.com/html/productsupport/launchManual.php?url=neverlube.pdf Of course with no water feature, those parts can be left off. And for the Intellitouch to control it, you would need a valve actuator between the vac line and the skimmer line.

I understand how people can be about holding tight to their original idea and looking for approval more than input. I assure you that is not the case in my circumstance. I am not fully educated in the electrical code. Therefore, I need good advice. I have spent time researching and reading up so that I don't ask stupid questions as much as possible. I want to wire everything exactly to code and even update where necessary to meet the requirements. I also want to understand the basic principles or reasoning behind some of the rules. This is why I asked about the OTR microwave versus a counter top microwave. I just wanted to understand. Excuse me for jumping to conclusions when I read "because I said so, that's why." Perhaps I did not make my question clear enough and for that I apologize. As far as the instant hot, I am not trying to argue as I don't have the experience and knowledge to do so. I am only trying to understand and share what I have found that lead me to my original conclusions. The biggest problem for me is that this is an older home with nearly every item in the kitchen wired to the same circuit and shared with other items. I am trying to sort out all this mess and "fix" all the problems I can find in the house with regards to electrical during this kitchen remodel. It is very time consuming and difficult. I only have so many spots on my panel and accessing the panel to change or modify it is extremely difficult and tricky. My situation is not ideal. Short of tearing down all the walls and running all new wire to a new panel, I may not be able to fix everything. As you can imagine this can be frustrating. We are already into the remodel, having purchased the appliances. However, paying to have all the electrical done is out of the budget at this time. I just don't know what the code dictates as far as forcing you to update old wires and circuits that have been in the home for years and years simply because you want to add an instant hot, OTR microwave and new appliances. I think though that this forum has been incredibly helpful and I will pursue getting double breakers and wiring everything on separate circuits as advised here.

If there is enough space in the existing junction box (very likely), you can use it for a junction that has wiring going two ways out: one wire continuing on to the kitchen receptacles and one hard-wire to the range hood. However, the junction box must remain accessible (not hidden behind a cabinet), and the number of wires entering, exiting, and spliced in the box cannot exceed the "box fill" capacity. Most standard size boxes would be big enough to serve a junction for this circuit. I don't think there is a code requirement for a dedicated line to a range hood, although most folks do use a dedicated breaker if you have a combination hood/microwave because many of the new microwaves are much higher power. Bruce