I like your choices, too. I would continue searching for the right light neutral color, myself. I'm also not sold on blue in there... It does take time to get the right color! My usual procedure: 1) bring home about 10 different swatches from the store. Hold them up in the room in various places, sometimes right on the wall, sometimes holding it out at arms length so it's "bigger" in your field of vision. Narrow your swatches down to say 5 or 6 that look OK. 2) Look at them at different times of day, different weather, different locations in the room. Next to whatever different materials they will abut IRL. 3) Narrow it down to a handful. Buy testers of those colors or whatever the smallest amount you can buy is. Paint ~2'x2' blocks on various walls (or paint pieces of poster board that you can move around) and again, look at them in different light situations.

Well, look at it this way, elenkao, every time you step up to that floor, you can think "boy, is this nice, walking on a nice level floor for a change". I don't know how bad out of level it was, but the way you describe it, I would guess a couple of inches, which is alot in a small room like that. There is only so many ways to level a floor, and most of them are impractical or impossible from a structural and cost viewpoint. Tile HAS to have a surface that is very close to level, plus it has to be very stiff. Taking up the subfloor and ripping down the joists to level would have been a very big job, and it may have weakened the framing too much for the tile. It certainly would have been nice if he described in a little more detail just what he was doing. I also understand your anxiety from a safety viewpoint - single steps (especially very short ones) are some of the most dangerous because people don't notice them. For that reason, you probably want to make it as highlighted or well detailed as possible to give fair warning to all. I guess the question to ask yourself is would you have kept the old floor (and maybe put down vinyl flooring and tried to re-hide the shimming) if you knew about the step? Or do you enjoy the new tiles, level fixtures, etc., and level walking enough to learn to live with the step? Personally, I think I'd take the step, but then slanting floors kind of bug me.

The floor and baseboards are wonderful! It's amazing how varied natural stone is, and it's a look many celebrate. I think once you bring this together you will too. I agree with Les that your frustration with the bath is causing you to panic a bit. If you're happy with your bedroom colors, I certainly wouldn't change it to match the new bathroom. You've received good feedback on the bathroom forum and I almost posted my suggestions there last night but life interrupted. As you now know, the undertone of both wallpapers and their busy movement don't play nicely with the stone. While I love wallpaper and mix it with stone in our home, in your case I'd let the stone be the star and find a soothing neutral paint to pull the disparate colors together. Rather than going down the endless paint sample route which can be arduous, you could find a piece of fabric, paper or dish, etc that works well with the stone and then have the paint store computer match it. (That's actually how I chose our kitchen cabinet color when our cabinetmaker did not have a good white despite a dozen selections. I brought him a bowl and he had it matched perfectly.) You may want to have the vents painted to match the walls. Greywings' suggestions for a glam ceiling could help lower the ceiling a bit if that's still your concern, but I'd probably stick with a pale gold or silver. Not that I wouldn't do a deep tone in a smaller space, but my fear is that a dark silver would make the room cold and a dark gold would be out of place with your other metals unless you unify them as I'll suggest later. You could also paint the ceiling the same as the walls or vary a shade or two lighter or darker. If you stick with white ceilings, maybe choose a white like BM Atrium White which has a touch of pink or Pittsburgh Paints' Atrium White which is a bit warmer. I'd not chose a stark or blue white. One good thing about the clear glass shower doors is that it will help make the dark shower walls less contrasty. I know its clear, but it's surprising how much effect the glass will have. Hopefully you ordered the chrome hinges and handle as I think you may want to stick with the look of your new tub faucets. Based on my monitor and my preferences, I'd paint the cabinets a creamier, warmer white to tone down their starkness against the tile and to blend better with your new countertops, but IRL the existing color may be fine. You'll have a better idea once you decide on the wall color. I'd either frame the mirror in beveled mirror strips or select an art frame to soften that expanse. You can check ebay and on-line stores if your local selection is limited for some different vanity lights, either more in keeping with the shape of the chandelier or more simple and less obtrusive. Perhaps I'd silver leaf the chandie and add shades and/or crystals since it will no longer compete with the wallpaper. If so, then I'd keep any metal on the vanity lights silver. Since you went with chrome fixtures, continue with chrome for the lav faucets. I tend to think of the cabinets knobs as jewelry and usually change them last. But I absolutely would not change the countertops in this case until the major other components, i.e., the paint on the walls, ceiling and the cabinets, were in place. I'd need to really see how the light, both artificial and natural, plays in the room and sometimes it just takes a while to really sense what will work best, so don't be in a hurry to change the tops. I'd also have made a decision on framing the mirrors. Though you'd want to actually have the frames installed after the counters are changed, it would be helpful to have a sample ready to place against the various top ideas, particularly if you don't go with the beveled mirror frames. I think the crema marfil, Botticino Classico or some other light neutral might be lovely, but again you have to remember the undertones and pick your specific slab carefully. The polished version of your floor would look splendid also if you can locate a slab without a lot of fill. I would definitely not bring in more of the tropic brown which will look too heavy, too speckled and is the wrong tone against the marble. The good news is that you can take your time and bring home lots of stone samples to see which would work best before committing. Think of this as a mere hiccup, take your time and you will turn this into a beautiful space.

I got the cabinets through Home Depot (20% off) they are not higher end but they have held up extremely well and we’ve been happy with them. I don’t remember the brand, but the color is cognac on maple. They’re standard kitchen cabinets. We got 2 regular drawer banks, 1 extra wide drawer bank, 2 sink cabinets and the closet you can see in the picture for about 1800 w/the discount. We bumped the shower wall 6 inches into the bedroom to make the shower bigger, pulled the cabinets out from the wall a couple of inches to provide more counter top. And curved the edge the counter for interest. Just for fun, this is what we had to start with. The tub was rusted and there were two doors, 1 from the hall & 1 from the master bedroom, we closed up the hall door. I think we got our moneys worth. LOL As for the labor, I found my Contractor through a plumber I had hired to put in a kitchen faucet. I asked if he had someone good he could refer and he referred Matt to me. Matt had his own company but just him and his guys. All of his work was by word of mouth, he didn’t advertise or push for business, he didn’t need to. I think I got fair pricing from him because he didn’t have the overhead a lot of the larger companies might have. He wasn’t the least expensive and he wasn’t the most expensive. Finding someone who was willing to work on our schedule and not having to have it done ASAP is what really helped me to be able to keep our costs at a minium for both labor and materials.