We have just installed a 2 man Jetta tub and wanted grab bars for it. Since we used oil rubbed bronze faucets, I had problems finding what I wanted. A local plumbing store was going to order them for me when I found them at Lowe's. I had asked repeatedly and was told they didn't have them in ORB. Well, this is called Venetian Bronze or something like that. It is close enough. It is a Moen product and is ADA approved with a 500 pound pull capacity. They only had the 16 inch one, but I was going to check into a longer one. Thanks for the link above it has them there! We just got this bathroom finished a couple of days ago. Now, granted this tub is not a handicap type one, but we wanted the bars for practical use now and need in the future. The small one is placed vertical on a stud at the edge of the tub. I already know that I want and need one lower. They gutted my other bath this week and the tub/shower is being replaced with a shower that will be handicap accessible--but we are adding glass doors that can be removed later if needed. This shower will have the grab bars and I think we are going to add one beside the toilet in there. Both new toilets are the ADA higher ones and I love the one that is new to master bath. The master bath is large enough to get a wheelchair around in, but the hall bath was very inaccessible. We found this out during the past few years as our parents health failed and we had them here for extended times. We decided to do this bath remodel Christmas when my Dad's health failed to the point that he could not remain at the assisted living. We were going to move him in with us and remodel the bath. However, we lost him in late January. We looked at the overall picture and realized that although we have now lost all four parents, we will have a need for this at some point. So, we went ahead with the plans--just took a little more time doing it. We also have taken out the small hall bath door and they are installing a much wider pocket door so that a wheelchair can go through it. Although I do have solid wood vanities in both baths, we decided to leave them. They will be able to be replaced with a pedestal or something more handicap assessible if needed. I am adding a link to pics of the new master bath. You can see the bar on the right side of the front of tub. Again, it is not a tub that you would think of in this way, but wanted to share the grab bar there. We will add another one. The shower will be much more practical and I will post pics when they finish it. http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z203/printersdevil72/Master%20Bath%20Pics/

Thank you everyone. I'll make a general reply to everyone. The damaged areas have all been drywalled, taped, textured and primed, but I'm still struggling with paint colors in that area so we've been painting bedrooms instead. (whole house reno.). Basically, all the drywall was done and over. Some of the damaged areas were on walls with a flat texture (i.e. no texture) and some on walls with a sprayed orange peel. I wouldn't feel comfortable patching either kinds of texture myself. If you patch an orange peel area, how do you get the texture back on the flat patch you just did? Our painting company is called Breezy DH, Inc. We're DIYing where we can, and wall and ceiling paint is certainly doable. No painters fixing holes. :( We did decide to have our trim and doors professionally caulked, sanded, and sprayed as it would take DH many months to do that painstaking, detailed work with his schedule. I am the GC so it does fall to me to take care of this. I finally heard back from the flooring company. My rep will be stopping by in the morning to take a look at the walls. He did give me some slight bs about damage below the trim, but agreed that there shouldn't be damage above. Accidents happen, but I know they were moving very fast and didn't seem that careful when I watched them several times during the first two days. I will not have the floor installers do the repairs. Didn't fall off the turnip truck yesterday. :)

Thanks! I put conduit (both flexible and rigid) inside the walls. Horizontal runs are through knock outs inside the blocks but I tried to keep this to a minimum. Plumbing is also inside (PEX and PVC for waste water) the walls. The main reason for the interior block walls was that I wanted a solid feel. The doors are fairly large (8ft tall, 3.5ft wide) and solid core so I was concerned that metal studs may not be massive enough. I used metal studs for a wall concealing a tank for a wall hung toilet but everything else is concrete blocks.

Thanks - unfortunately they are unresponsive and the company no longer exists shortly after finishing the job (we had so much work done to an older house it took me a while to realize the little things that were done poorly - I've learned that lesson of how to choose folks to work on your home the hard way. I realize this seems like a glaring mistake but it was a gap that didn't bother me too much at first, but got worse when we recently had to shim up the counter which was also poorly installed. Thanks for the paintable caulk suggestion - maybe I should try a caulk backing strip (or whatever those are called) and drywall putty if needed for the gouged looking part, then caulk and paint?