Did they place a water and ice shield barrier on the edge of the roof to three feet past the wall line? Your roof is not similar, only the material is. Original roof was solid from eave to ridge so any ice formed would just keep backing up the roof without penetrating. New roof is pieces which allow the ice to form and move underneath and then leak in the house.

In the Same Boat here ... 115 year old house, cedar shakes and clapboards sheathed in vinyl. We have removed some of it and found it either in great shape or discovered a few less than distressing things (some minor wet rot, a missing foot or so of clapboard on a porch pier). On our side is that the house was left just stained (unpainted) until the mid 60's, then in the mid-late 70 was sided with vinyl. and it IS cedar ... We dont know what well find elsewhere(we removed about 7% so far) but think it will be far less expensive to remove and repair than leave the vinyl and watch more wet rot happen (ok, hidden beneath the vinyl, but you know what I mean). Neighbor houses of the same vintage (also cedar and stained for the first 50 years of their lives) are in pretty good shape ... you'll never know till you take it off ... My biggest concern is that our house is a full 4 stories tall ... and I am scared to death of heights ... YIKES

Macv - You raise some interesting points. Especially the actual installation (nailing) of siding and the resultant holes. But rules are rules. I try to follow them, but mostly the manufacturer's have these rules to protect themselves, and not the acutal consumer. I like 30# felt. But apparently Tyvek breathes easier. Not real sure. I don't like installing Tyvek. But it's entire purpose is as a membrane - to allow moisture VAPOR to pass thru - while prohibiting water liquid. I tend to agree that all this stuff is probably going to be outlawed down the road. After all - we all know the companies making this stuff are totally evil, and are cauing... Thought you made some good points. Abbey - if you truly would like to have hardi siding - this is easily installed. Not sure your age, or physical condition. A 12' board, 6.25" wide is just $5. A same 8.25" wide is $6 These are for unpainted lap siding boards. You can purchase them pre-painted; they have thin pieces of plastic between them for proetection, and the paint will get damaged during installation. But they have 'touch up' kits for the install. I prefer to paint afterwards. Much easier. (Have to have the correct weather.) Prices above were from HD. You can purchase from a local lumber yard, and special order a bunch of various product. You can also special order more varied prodcut from Lowes, or Home Depot. Anyway - installing siding is not difficult if you are not afraid of heights. Probably your major cost quotations is in Labor... Have a couple of active friends? Throw a couple of pizza parties, and learn a new skill... Cement siding is hard on the health. A lot of people use a skill saw (I've used a miter saw equipped with a cement cutting blade) - but this does produce dust. You NEED to wear a dust mask when cutting. I also own a siding cutting shear - expressly designed to cut cement board without ANY dust. But that is an expensive tool - so we won't go there. For a reasonable cost you can also purchase a hand held cutting shears or scissors. You can get one of these designed to 'add on' to a normal drill... Or purchase a small portable diamond blade tile cutting saw (around $35) at HD; and make small cuts in the siding with that... You need diamond blades to cut this stuff. A Siding Gaugae (SA902) by PacTool international (1-800-297-7487) is a beautiful tool for not much, ($76 from Ace Hardware) that makes installing siding almost a 1-person job. Sets it at the right height, etc. Made expressly for Hardi board. This is a quality, precision tool. WORKS, and works well! You cannot hand nail Hardi siding. Per James Hardi you can hand nail it. Guess I'm weak or something. I definitely do not recommend 'hand nailing'. Just impossible. So you would need a nail gun. An excellent one would be: Max CN565S. This tool allows you to easily operated it as a 'single shot' rather than 'bump'. And it is much easier not to hurt yourself and more accurate placing of the fasteners - when not being used as 'bump'. Bump places a nail each time the tool strikes the siding. Since as the tool fires the nail - some recoil occurs - in bump you can easily jam the tool trying to place 3 nails at the same location... You would need a small air compressor for this tool. Readily available for less than $100; or pay a little more. You should also use stainless siding nails. This eliminates rust stains later on. And you don't have to 'blind nail'. (The siding covers up the nails during blind nailing.) This makes it easier (since you can see the fasteners) to remove siding down the road for replacement, or to get into a wall or something. The stainless won't rust and are easily painted. If you blind nail - it also looks good (some would say better); and you don't necessarily have to use stainless. But it is still good to use stainless. (Rust considerations/Stain). But it is much harder to remove siding without damaging it for later work down the road... You can use regular Tar Paper instead of Tyvek. Tyvek has supposed advantages, and has definite disadvantages. Blows like a huge sailboat in the slightest wind. Have to use thousands of staples to keep it from blowing around, unless you use the plastic button washers for the nails previous mentioned. Kind of your choice. Tar paper is tried and true. Tyvek works, and I use it; but not real sure that it has a huge advantage. It's purpose is as a functional membrane, which allows VAPOR to pass thru - but stops WATER. A Tyvek nailing gun would be: HITACHI NV50AP3. You can use stainless siding nails in this tool... Have to also purchase the plastic buttons. You have to use this gun SLOWLY. If you don't watch it - all the time - invariably a button tab won't be cut off, and when you move the gun to a different position for the next nail - a whole stream of plastic buttons comes pouring out - which you must then get back into the gun... Pain in the job. Anyway - this probably all seems like a huge amount. It really isnt! All of these tools are readily available on the internet. ToolBarn, etc. Reasonable prices. You can then sell them as almost brand new - only used on one job - on ebay or craig's; and recoup some of your investment. You would probably save a bundle, and learn a bunch, and have a couple of fellowship parties all at the same time! Maybe you and a couple of your friends would like to reside your houses. Make a round table tool investment, and help each other out... To get up High on your house, you can purchase some Siding Jacks for around $60. These are metal jacks which you attach to the side of your house, and you makes up some plank boards, and a railing; and then the jacks hoist you up the side of your house as you side. You 'pump' or jack them up. I'm not talking about the ones which cost thousands. You can get what I'm talking about from a Box store... and they work extremely well. If your at all interested in doing this job yourself - I would recommend Black&Decker "The complete guide to roofing siding & trim" $25 UPC code: 5294401703 ISBN: 978-1-58923-418-5 Among other things, it discusses siding, and pump jacks. I don't like roofing, and just recently picked it up because I'm doing some roof work. My brother is a roofer, but I'm not! I also recommend Home Depot's "Home Improvement 1-2-3" This has a lot of good general info. As a home owner, you should have it, for just general anything. I have some much older siding books, but I'm sure you can easily pick up a couple of other books on siding as well. What I'm really trying to say is: Siding a house is not that difficult. You would save a bundle, and be proud of a job well done. Quoting from the Black and Decker book: "Few other exterior improvements will give your home such a dramatic facelift as new siding. Siding allows you to change both the color and texture of outside walls... Wrapping a home with vinyl or wood is well within a seasoned do-it-yourself's capabiliites. And when you're through, both you and the neighbors can appreciate your handiwork for many decades to come. If you have a basic collection of hand and power tools, you've got most of the hardware needed for the job already..." [page 109] I can hang drywall. My lovely wife can do an AMAZING job of finishing it! When we started - we both knew NOTHING about drywall. But we read "Drywall" by Myron R. Ferguson (I have the 2nd and 3rd edition.) Extremely valuable resource if your doing drywall work... So for you siding job - if your at all up to it - don't be afraid. Get a couple of books, do some reading, and save yourself a bundle. Have a couple of parties, and sell the tools (if you want) afterwards. Sorry this is so long. I wish you the best on your project. God Bless. A couple of links for info below: http://www.stainless-fasteners.com/ http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/products_siding_hardieplankLapSiding.py http://www.jameshardie.com/ http://www2.dupont.com/Building_and_Construction/en_US/ http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weatherization/en_US/customer_care/warranty.html http://www.toolbarn.com/maxtools-cn565s.html http://www.toolbarn.com/hitachi-nv50ap3.html http://www.northwestpowertools.com/nail/coil/nv50ap3.htm http://www.northwestpowertools.com/tool_manufacturers/pacificshear/sa902.htm The next is discontinued, but gives you an idea of what I was discussing: http://www.coastaltool.com/a/port/6605.htm And as stated previous - Box stores carry sheasrs which connect to your drill... I know you never mentioned doing the job yourslf. Just an idea. Really not hard to do. Bye!

You are welcome to put the vinyl over top the marble. Be aware that you will NOT be able to do the preparation needed for the vinyl to be properly installed. The preparation means you have to a SMOOTH and FLAT subfloor (grout lines would, ideally, be level with the tile) and any humps/bumps ground down/flattened and any hollows filled with concrete. Ahhhhhhh. Now you see where this is getting tricky. To "cover" the marble (to "save it") you may have to destroy it to make the vinyl install "proper". If you do NOT do the proper preparation, you will get a vinyl floor that will telegraph ALL THE GROUT LINES through to the surface. You will end up with a "checker board" pattern of grout lines showing through the surface of your newly laid vinyl. Here is my suggestion: Water-Proof LAMINATE! Yep. Something like Aquagard (at several dollars more per square foot) will do it. Why? Aquaguard is RIGID. And it allows UNDERLAYMENT which can help with any minor imperfections. Yes...technically laminate wants a properly prepared subfloor - but it is more forgiving visually. You might get a snick of movement over hollows but I would take a tiny bit of movement over a grid pattern etched into vinyl any day. As for the baseboards....remove them and install something that fits your aesthetics. The one's visible are nothing special. Some of them don't even match the tile they are attached to. Not worth saving in my opinion. Have a look at water proof laminate. It offers the same wearability without the issues with excess heat/direct sunlight and without the issues of a super flat subfloor.