Kitchen design dilemma

14 years ago

Hello, This is my very first posting on Kitchen Forum and I need design help from all you experts!

My new kitchen is 20'x12'3'. Well, that was before the new foundation was poured at the back of the existing house(where the most of kitchen is) and I found out the new foundation is 6' wider. I decided to utilize that 6'(now the kitchen dimension is 20' x 12'9') so 17' of 20' long run of kitchen is 6' wider. The problem is where that 6' wider portion ends. It is a bit tricky. Since I have a custom cabinet maker for cabinets, I could build cabinets around that edge.

But what do I do with area(between upper and lower cabinet) that cannot be conceal with cabinets? I've decided to keep the distance between the island and long kitchen run with range at 3'9' and widen the passage way from 3'9' to 4'3'.

What do you think? Any suggestion is appreciated!

Here is a link that might be useful:

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Comments (9)

austingardener
Original Author
14 years ago
Here is the kitchen elevation.
It is a little difficult to see but you can see the red line where the edge will be sticking out as 6" square.
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cawaps
14 years ago
That is kinda awkward. I had to really stu dy to figure out what you were talking about, but I think I get it now.

You have a very symmetric setup around the range, and if you want to keep it that symmetric, then you have to deal directly with the post--cover it with backsplash material, whatever.

Other options are to widen the hutch (I think that's a hutch to the right of the jog) to the left so that the edge of the hutch aligns with the jog. You'd have to eliminate the upper cab that wraps around the corner, and the base cab would then have to be pretty narrow.

You could also put an "apppliance garage" in between the upper and the base cabinet. It might not be useful for appliaces (losing the 6x6 space), but you could conceal shelves for spices, etc. It wouldn't actually have to be the same depth as an upper cabinet, just a bit deeper than the 6", just enough to conceal the corner.
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@mama goose_gw zn6OH Thank you for your thoughtful feedback. I was definitely considering the dishwasher swap, with dishes in drawers instead of upper cabinets. There's two reasons I'm hesitant. 1) I have never been a big fan of dishes in drawers. Getting dishes is a frequent activity, so having to bend down each time seems like it could get painful on the back. I could be totally wrong on this. 2) Our typical routine for weeknight dinner involves brining clean plates to the stove for loading and then taking to the island to eat. Setting the table for more "formal" dinners usually involves using the "good" dishes, which are stored elsewhere anyways. (The plan doesn't show it, but there are uppers on either side of stove and dishes are planned to be on the left.) Trash drawers are going to go under both main and prep sink. There is definitely room to make the island wider than the standard 4 feet and hence move it a little closer to stove. My concern there is that it would require a seam in the counter material (quartzite). Maybe a skilled installer could make that almost disappear. I'm just wondering how much that would bother me. I should have provided more context on the bank of floor-to-ceiling cabinets. The design is below. The middle section is indented with a counter ledge and has the microwave and coffee/breakfast stations behind the appliance garages. This is why the fridge can move to one of the two ends, but not the middle. If I'm adding the island prep sink, then I'm actually happy with the fridge at the end because it means I can just pivot to pull things from fridge and put on island. I had originally wanted to keep the island completely appliance free, but now realize the prep sink there is a must given the rest of the configuration.
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A few key measurements are missing -- all doors/doorways/windows/walls should have measurement labels (with trim included in the door/doorway/window measurements). Post an updated version with all the measurements -and- a sketch of the entire floor the Kitchen is on. Here's an excerpt from the "New to Kitchens? Read Me First!" thread: Please post a fully-measured layout of the space under consideration and a sketch of the entire floor. By "fully-measured", we mean a layout with the widths of each wall/window/door/doorway and the distances between each wall/window/door/doorway labeled. See a sample below. If something cannot be moved or changed, label it precisely on your layout (see post in sample) and tell us why it cannot be moved/changed -- we may have some ideas for you. The sketch of the entire floor lets us see how the Kitchen relates to the rest of the home. It doesn't have to be to-scale, but it should accurately show how the rooms relate to each other and should include all interior & exterior doors. In addition, it will help us see how traffic flows in, around, and through the Kitchen. Label the front entry and family entry. The family entry is usually a garage or side entry, but it might not be. It's helpful to know which door you use to bring in groceries. Regardless of how you draw it up (by hand, computer, etc.), please be sure all measurements are labeled. Other questions... Tell us about you and your family and how you plan to use your Kitchen. All-adults? Empty Nesters? Children (now or in the future)? Aging in place? What appliances (& their sizes) do you plan to have? Where are you flexible? Can walls/windows/doors/doorways change (move, change size, add, delete)? Do you have a basement under the Kitchen or are you on a slab?
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remodelfla
14 years ago
I'm not sure I understand. Is the 6" jog all the way up from the base cabs to the upper cabs or is it just the upper cabs? If base cabs... couldn't you just make your run 30" deep narrowing to 24" deep at the jog? It would appear to be the same depth but the actual interior depth would be less.
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bmorepanic
14 years ago
I'd be tempted to cut the two small uppers - at the ref and at the bump. Might run a small ladder of open shelves(just enough for nice casseroles or standing serving platters) beside the bump with a wine tower - or might just leave those spaces empty. It would look great empty and tiled either to mid-window or all the way.
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palimpsest
14 years ago
I like what bmore said about taking out the two skinny uppers.

You could widen the glass cabinet to cover the bump, which wouldn't be exactly symmetrical, but the elevation isn't going to be quite as symmetrical as it looks on paper in real life anyway.

Or you could build a small fake bump to the right of the fridge to mirror the other one and treat them as if they are both structural and intentional.
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desertsteph
14 years ago
nope. can't tell by those drawings.

try a basic drawing of it. there's just too much in those drawings.
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austingardener
Original Author
14 years ago
Thank you for the feedbacks. I will try to upload more clearer drawings shortly. Basically 6" jog runs from ceiling to the floor. Do you think 1'6" upper cabinet is too narrow? My concern is that if I get rid of those two cabinets altogether, I barely have any upper cabinet. My kitchen is a good size so I might be ok without upper cabinets, but I am not sure...

A friend of mine suggested making the upper cabinets to come all the way down to the counter on both sides. Then, I would be losing counter spaces. What do you think?
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austingardener
Original Author
14 years ago
Hope this one shows better. I am still learning to post pictures and all. All very new to me:) thanks!
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desertsteph
14 years ago
in the upper right area? to the right of the window?

I'd run the front of the cabs even to view. they wouldn't be as deep inside. the counter wouldn't be as deep either.

I don't think that'll look weird at all. easier to reach that side with the peninsula there.

if you don't have a peninsula there, ignore what I posted. lol!
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Kitchen design dilemma

Comments (9)

austingardener
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cawaps

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Kitchen design dilemma

Comments (9)

austingardenerOriginal Author

cawaps

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bmorepanic

palimpsest

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austingardenerOriginal Author

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austingardener
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