Homebound_ in regards to the non-descript flame characteristics of the TS-4000. If we examine the flame in a common propane torch we see a very descript teardrop shape inner flame, surrounded by a pale outer flame. If you will look down the bore of your TS-4000 burner tip you will see a flat disk that has 6 slots and each segment is then twisted slightly forming a pitch similar to propellar blades. Not only does that diverter increase the swirling effect it also divides the flame into 6 separate but equal flames. Now try this experiment. Pull the trigger and light the flame, then very slowly release the trigger a bit and you will see the flame drop down a bit. With the trigger only slightly depressed you will actually see the 6 points of flame are very distinct but when the trigger is held fully open all six points blend together in what appears as a flat top on the inner flame. In regards to wiping the joint with the flux brush. Many plumbers do that to insure their is a clean line of solder all the way around the joint however I have two reservations against that practice. 1. Wiping a hot joint with the flux brush results in burning the bristles in the brush. When the brush is then placed back in the flux it tends to contaminate the flux with carbon and burnt bristles. 2. Plumbing Flux is acid based and should be wiped off the joint while it is still warm. I prefer to wipe the joints with a clean damp cotton cloth. Coolvt asked about refilling the small cylanders from a larger tank. The reason you cannot find an adapter hose to do so is easy to explain, it simply would not work. Propane is a liquid which boils to a gas before leaving the tank. In order to refill the tank you would need a compressor system similar to a refrigeration compressor to compress the gas to the condensing pressure in order to refill a tank. (While the actual pressures are different the handling characteristics are the same as handling a refrigerant and in fact, propane is listed as a refrigerant.) By example at 30degF the temperature of vaporization of Propane is 30degF while at 70degF it is 128psi and at 110degF it is 197psi. While it is not really prevalent on the small tanks used for hand torches if you have a propane grille you will often see a frost line forming on the outside of the tank after the burner has been burning a while. That frost line on the exterior of the tank is a visible indicator of how much liquid propane is left in the tank. Diyourselfer stated that they now have the TS-8000 out so maybe he should buy that one. I really can't comment on the TS-8000 simply because my old TS-4000's refuse to die...LOL. I bought my first TS-4000 in 1985. About 6 years later I was connecting water lines to a condensate return tank in a boiler room and accidently dropped the torch in the tank. When i fished it out and shock it off the ignighter was not working. I managed to manually light the flame and continue my project. The next day while at the supply house I grabbed a new TS-4000 to replace the original one then a few days later i was in an ACE Hardware store and discovered that they carry a full line of replacement parts. I grabbed a new ignighter assembly and the original was back in business. In fact, that 1985 model is still in the top of my tool box and working fine. Last year someone gave me a new TS-4000 for Christmas and it sat on the floor beside my desk for months, occassionally being used as a cigarette lighter...LOL. One day the pilot went out on the water heater so I went to gtab my torch by the desk to light the pilot and the torch was gone. I asked my wife if she knew where it went and she replied,"Yes, I have it in the kitchen and I am keeping it there!" I said, what do you need a propane torch in the kitchen for" and was i amazed at her reply, She says, "I use it when i am making pies. I saw a chef on a TV cooking show use one to brown the peaks on the lemon marangue pie topping so I tried it and it works great. If you need a cigarette lighter I will buy you one, but I am keeping the torch!"

cpartist: I misunderstood about the MW and the corner cabinets. I do wish to go with an upper garage door enclosed microwave so I can swap it out – and realize I completely left it out of the Side View above. I'm not a fan of corner cabinets. I would rather have the storage in drawers on either side and have a blind corner if it meant that other cabinets on my run would be small like the 12" wide cabinet next to the pantry. To me a 12" cabinet is useless except to collect junk. I misunderstood this statement and understood it to mean lower: Whereas perhaps you were referring to upper: Not that it matters. I just misunderstood. Make the coffee bar narrower in depth…. mantlemount… Coffee maker can’t sit directly underneath TV no matter how high TV sits above, even if fully enclosed in a garage as steam escaping from blooming the grinds during brewing would eventually damage the TV. Also, if we make it narrow no room for mini fridge. The mini fridge needs space so as not to overheat. That Mantlemount is awesome, but w/o going into elaborate details, we are incorporating the TV into the cabinet in such a way it won’t work. DH will look at this and may change his mind tho’! As we go through this, we learn so many new ideas and it’s such a fantastic process! Doing a 30" upper with 18" above that is going to make the upper look top heavy and push down on the 30" cabinets. I would do a 36" high upper, a 12" high above that and then have your 6" crown. This was why I wanted to post the Side Views and I so appreciate your input. I wasn’t sure about heights of stacked upper cabs. Since your comment, in looking at various photos, seems the taller cabs below, with shorter above, as you just said, makes for cleaner lines, less heavy: vs. Therefore, I’ll change the stacked cab’s to the 36” and 12” as you suggested to see what it looks like. I feel we’ll both prefer it. I was allowing 5” for crown molding (included in that is a 1” filler to sit underneath to even out non-plumb ceiling heights). I am thinking the crown molding shouldn’t be over 4” in our kitchen as it might look overwhelming in respect to the rest of the house… I do want 18”, not 15” clearance between countertop and upper cabinets. 48" is the width of two cabinets together underneath. Yes, it was the arrow. Thanks for clearing this up, I was concerned we were missing some pertinent measurements a cabinet maker would need to know. I’ve made some mistakes I think in the Side View… #1: the 2” piece of stock (for side of fridge facing the Great Room) is fine, just showing it here. #2: the 2” piece of stock on the other side of the fridge shows it stopping at 2nd stack of upper cabs, which wasn’t intended and the measurements include it going all the way to the crown moulding. However… #3: needs to be the microwave garage, in which case, it needs to be wider. Question: So, and I don’t wish to appear stupid, but there may be rules I’m unaware of: if the stock on the oven side of the fridge (#2) only went on the side of the fridge that is exposed, I could add another 2” to the 24” wide upper cabs, 2” to the lower drawer bases, giving more room for the MW garage (and by garage, I mean garage door). See image below. Are there any rules/reasons Re: stock pieces on this side of fridge that would make this impossible to do? Question: Also, when I did the side view yesterday I didn’t add it all up… I’m coming in at (including leaving 2” stocks as original) 172” across for uppers, 171” across for lowers. Have I missed something from buehl’s layout? Lastly, I understand we are asking a zillion questions and very heavily relying on the 2 of you right now. If at any time this becomes too laborious, time-consuming, or tedious, please let me know.

Without pics it is impossible to really help. I have lived in London with the tiny kitchens and no storage so think storage before placing fr/ fr underneath counters where cabinets are now.I think an apat. size fridge is all you need . You can post pics like a comment.A smaller sink for sure.

I'm not sure I would add anything that takes up a footprint just because... because. You do need that area for walking around and all. Keeping that footprint clear can allow you a spot to land things on occasion if needed- extra boxes, bags from shopping, someone dropping off a something, ect. Personally I would be more likely to use those walls for hanging storage of things like pans, strainers, lids, ect. Or use one of the walls as a murphy if I felt I needed the extra horozontal space sometimes- have art on the bottom of it for when it's tucked up.