ooh, ooh, (raises hand) I have a little tiny contribution!

Rental roof got damaged in a storm. After a drawn out battle with insurance (they only wanted to 'patch' it) we got it replaced. All contractors agreed it should be stripped down to nothing (it was one layer), checked for any damaged wood (that could also have been exposed to water in subsequent storms) and once any new wood needed was replaced, a whole new roof would go on.

Turns out there was damaged/wet wood. Several shingles had come off altogether, many more were askew, but apparently that's all it took. (We had some wicked heavy rains, 4" + in several subsequent storms and horrific 60+ mph wind gusts, so water actually seeped/blew in and during the insurance tug-o-war it reached the point we had to replace some drywall upstairs, directly below the roof.)

I got architectural shingles. It only cost another $200 or so out of our pocket and it really is a classy look. But if you go for that, pay attention to samples they show you. One company makes one made to look like a 3D architectural but in reality it's a 3 tab with some coloring/shading put in, basically an illusion. Can't for the life of me remember which company made that shingle. Compared side by side to a 'real' architectural you'd catch it right away. Not saying it was an inferior product, just make sure if you're paying a little extra for architectural that you're actually getting that style, not a faux look.

We have to replace our roof next year (bilevel also), definitely going to price the architectural. Again, I think it looks so classy (and here in our area is what they use on new construction.) ;D

I linked to an article below. Brand I bought for rental was Tamko.

If you can't decide on a color/style, shoot me an email with a pic of your home, or post it here. I have a Certainteed software program that lets me put all kinds of goodies on houses, including a new roof! ;D

Here is a link that might be useful: Exterior Products Review: Architectural Shingles

I'd go with the more expensive architectural shingles if given a choice; they might not give you the 30 or 40 years they promise, but they'll give you at least 5 years over three-tab, and putting off that labor (the expensive part of roofing), will be worth it.

I'd also always do a tearoff.

We redid our roof last year, and we also went with architectural shingles. I agree with Moonshadow that it does look nicer. My neighborhood is about 20 years old, and as my neighbors are reroofing, we'd noticed that everyone is switching to architectural shingles. As Moon said, it's also what's being used in new construction here too (Atlanta area).

Shingle choice is easy. Choose a blended color and choose an architectural shingle. A strip shingle, or 3 tab will cost a few pennies less and look a few dollars short on appearance.

Ventilation. That's more of a critical decision. Ventilation to roofing is what primer is to painting. And y'all know how I feel about primer. :)

Ventilation is what prolongs the life of your roofing shingles and cools the attic in summer to prevent a hot ceiling and most important of all, vents out the warm humid air in winter which causes the most damage.

Ridge vent has proven time and time again to be the most effective roof ventilation available. Of course no ventilation is adequate without soffit intake. Air Vent Shingle Vent II has a very informative website. Study it before choosing an alternate vent source.

Power Roof vents are sometimes used when the ridge doesn't provide at least 10 feet of ridge ventilation. That is the minimum required for adequate ridge exhaust. A power roof vent also requires adequate intake at the soffits to provide upflow to the fan exhaust area. Without soffit venting, the Power Roof Vent will remove heated or cooled air from the living area. Not a good energy conservation affect there.

Gable End vents are a thing of the past. Most gable vents on newer homes are blanks, used for decor only. Gable end vents mostly transfer the hot air from side to side of the roof, leaving the hot and moist air at the ceiling area, causing damage in the long run. If you have open gable vents, they must be closed off from inside when installing soffit and ridge vent systems.

Turbine vents, whirly birds are for barns. :) They are very ineffective when used to vent a lived in space that produces moisture and heat.

Soffit vents are the best way to provide intake for all vents. If soffit vents are not possible or practical, then Drip Edge vent is the solution. Intake vents should provide airflow up the entire roof deck (bathe it with fresh air)and then escape at the exhaust ridge or Power Vent.
http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/products/intake-ventedDE.shtml

Static Roof vents or pots are obsolete.

Tear off or re-roof. If you can afford a tear-off, it's the way to go. Uncovering the deck for inspection and replacement of bad sheets is always a good thing. Use OSB (Oriented Strand Board)when replacing roof decking. It's stronger than plywood. When uncovered, you'll be able to install Ice and Water Shield to the eave edges, valleys, chimney protrusions, vent pipe protrusions, etc. Ice & Water Shield also prevents leaks caused by ice and water backup. Back up will be minimal with a properly vented roof, however it does happen in the winters up north, even when vented properly.

If I can help you more, please ask.

Michael

Here is a link that might be useful: Shingle Vent II

Moonshadow,

Those strips with raised granules may have been the Certainteed Classic Horizon or Owens Corning Prominence.

Michael

Wow!
You guys RULE!
Michael, Moon, Nicole, Jason....
I feel lots smarter already!!!

Just got the mail today...the Insurance co. ALREADY HAD a check in our mailbox! I'm not sure if that's bad or good, since we didn't discuss anything...but that's what they're doing for all insureds I guess! I've seen lots of adjusters in town the last couple weeks!

The check was for $7,600. For a 2,500sf bi-level w/ 3-car gar., is that a decent amount?? I think the long-run of the house is ~50' max. Our lot is 75' wide.

Thanks again!

Faron

Michael: Classic Horizon rings a bell ;)

I can only offer my own experience with out rental situation. Insurance companies use cost calculating software and take into account whether you have replacement cost or ACV. Of 4 contractors I asked for estimates, 3 of them produced printed out estimates that read much like the insurance estimate, broken down. (Cost to tear off, cost to haul away, cost of Ice/Water shield, additional charge for steep pitch, lineal feet of damaged gutter, etc.) They were clearly using 'insurance friendly' software. (One guy just scribbled something on a preprinted form.)

Backtracking a bit, like you we received a check after the first adjuster was out. But in the interim I had already obtained one estimate and that estimate was not even close to insurance company as far as what needed to be done. Red flag goes up.

So I started getting more estimates. I'd suggest you get at least two estimates on your own from "good" roofers. If they vary greatly from insurance payment, get a couple more. If the price stays higher than what your ins paid, you've got a bit better ammo for negotiation. In our case even after 3 estimates ins was still bickering, so I called a contractor that in our area is the insurance company's 'preferred provider contractor'. That contractor agreed with all others: patching wouldn't cut it, we needed a whole new roof. (By now you can see little water spots on one area of upstairs drywall and one area of attic, something the first adjuster did not see because he came out right away and there had been no further rain at that point.) So only after we got the estimate from the insurance company's 'preferred contractor' did they relent. A 2nd adjuster was sent out, noted leaks, added on more $ and it covered enough to pay for a whole new roof.

I didn't cash check #1 that just showed up in the mail because to some that can be construed as a sign of acceptance and I didn't want insurance misconstruing anything. All depends on who you talk to. (Our agent later agreed it was probably best that I had not cashed it, perhaps an indicator of how our particular ins company would have viewed cashing it? )

Rental roof is apples compared to oranges. (Built in 30's, less sq footage but it has a very steep pitch and many more peaks/valleys and areas requiring Ice & Water shield that Michael mentions.) It was done for $6k. Your house sounds similar to ours (the one we live in, not the rental ;) Except our 3 car is detached, sq footage comes out to be about the same. We don't have any official estimates yet for our own roof (it's aging, not damaged) but when I asked him a while back DH 'guestimated' it would be around $8 - $10k range. ~gulp~.

Faron,

That sounds fair. Remember, a roof isn't based on the square footage of living area, just the deck. Since your house is two floors high, I'm guessing it's about 20 squares of roofing, more if it has a steep pitch. Ridge caps are extra when using architectural shingles.

Also, if the pitch is a 4/12 low slope, you will not appreciate the architectural shingle as much as you would if the slope is steep. Especially on a bi-level which tends to have a high roof line. Keep that view in mind.

The going rate in Ohio, performed by a professional roofer with all the credentials is about $350 per square for a complete tear off, haul away, shingles and the trimmings, except, replacement decking is always outside the contract and extra when required.

The dollars you received are pro-rated, taking into consideration the life expectancy of the roof and the life already used up.

Michael