I'm inclined to think kbg isn't for you, and the tree will be competition for any groundcover really. There doesn't appear to be raised roots, so that's in your favor. I think you'd be better off with a tall fescue. KBG just isn't a shade species. The Magnificent 3 will tolerate light or filtered shade, but not a tree like that I don't expect, and I can't really say it's an area you want to transition from kbg to fescue. Start a new post addressed to A.J. for tall fescue recommendation. He's shown us great varieties that rival kbg in appearance. Show him your picture(s) and ask what he thinks would be best for you. Other than that, the only thing I can think is to surround the tree with a shade garden. No big deal really. You'll just have less lawn area, but at least you will be able to plant the kbg you want, while the tree will be surrounded by groundcovers that are more likely to tolerate it. Some of them are attractive and colorful. Let me know what you decide. Whatever grass you plant, mow it higher in the shade - one half to an inch higher, and give it less nitrogen than you provide to the rest of the lawn. That is based on recommended rates for your grass type. You're going to want to overseed on a regular basis because like I said, the tree is going to compete for moisture and nutrients. The thing is, the tree will always win.

Sow some for me Joann!! I asked for potting soil for Xmas and didn't get it and nothing is open here for two days. All family visits were done before the Holidays since the all live distances from us and today DH and DD are busy with the Wii. They did do good on the purchase of The Well Tended Perennial Garden book by Tracy Di Sabato-Aust. Finally... after asking for it for two years!!! After my walk with the dogs I think I'll hunker down and bury my head in the book. :O) Happy Sowing!

Jo, I love that. The girls and I made one every year. Actually, we mostly made gingerbread "hovels". A pound of gingerbread and 3 pounds of frosting, which stood up just long enough for a picture and then we ate it. Shingles were always M&Ms, and those always got eaten first. Maybe Makayla and Bud will want to help me make one this year..... Good luck on the competition, I love that front porch! Annie

archie123, my drainboard is 16 inches long. The standard for Stonemasters is 18 inches but I wanted to preserve some flat countertop next under the corbel shelves and they were quite flexible. It is about 16 inches front to back but I did not specify that, I think they decide that depending on the sink measurement. Many people get the runnels which are prettier but I wanted the smooth drainboard of ease of cleaning. I thought I would mostly use the Stages sink shelf for drying things but that shelf does not slope down at all and there is always a ittle water on it unless I wipe it off , so this integral drainboard in the soapstone is my most used drying area. Also, that sink including the raised shelf has become my most often used prep area so the integral drainboard adds even more functional real estate. I use this very low profile drying rack from Ikea which easily stores in the sink out of view if needed. BTW the templater mentioned that Kohler dxf files were very accurate and they trusted them. Mags438, the sink is I think my favorite thing! You are too funny. tea4all, the corbel shelves are already holding our most used bowls and mugs. The bottom edge of my cabinets are 19 inches from the countertop with an integral 1 inch hollow area underneath for undercounter lights etc. I designed the shelves to have the bottom 7 inches below that bottom edge of the cabinets (12 inches above the countertop) and 7 inches front to back. I drew the corbels poorly but asked Dutchwood to make the top part 13 inches front to back. tapering down to the 7 inches front to back for the shelves. The shelf thickness is 3/4 inch thick, the thinnest that the cabinetmaker was comfortable with. My upper cabinets are 15 inches deep so the 7 inch corbel shelf depth still allows the undercounter lights (mounted towards the front under the cabinets) to not be blocked by the shelves. I designed the shelves i because I wanted to have easy access to my most used items yet get things off the countertop. The height was determined by the location of my preexisting outlets and switches which also happened to be the right height that my coffeemaker could fit under (just) when not in use. I do pull the coffeemaker and rice cooker out from under the cabinets when in use because of the steam that they generate. I will eventually post a picture of the corbel shelves in use. Here is a link that might be useful: Ikea Boholmen dish drainer