Honeywell makes a remote control for a ceiling fan which has variable speed for the fan and dimming for the lights as well. In addition, it has a setting that will turn the lights off on a delay (so you have light while you leave the room) and another feature to randomize the lighting of the ceiling light so that anyone casing you hour home might be misled into thinking someone is home. The models that I've looked at are the honeywell 40013 (backlit touch screen remote) and 40012 (physical buttons) and the prices range from 29.95+ on the 40012 and 39.98 on the 40013 (@ Lowes, which is lower than at the Honeywellstore.com site). Here is a link that might be useful: Honeywell Ceiling Fan Remote with Lighting Dimmer

Apologies for the length of this post, but I hope those with the patience to get through it find it useful. To each his own on color temperature (CT). I grew up with incandescent lights, and learned to dislike cool white (4100K) fluorescents in kitchens, schools, offices, and stores. So, I find anything from 4000 deg K up too garish and cold in most cases. What a lot of folks don't realize about incandescents is that with all other things being roughly equal, the higher the wattage, the higher the CT. I think that's why a room lit brightly with 2700K compact fluorescents or LEDs somehow doesn't seem quite right to me. Conversely, a dimly lit room at 4000K or 5000K CT looks to me like a drizzly, depressing, grey cloudy day. I find that I prefer around 2700K for normally lit rooms, and around 3000-3500K for brightly lit rooms. Many stores don't stock 3500K, so 3000K is generally close enough. I can tolerate 4000K if the room is really bright, but would rather have less. When you get to 5000K and up -- that's parking lot lighting, IMO. Ugh. Not in the house. However, I have a 5000K fluorescent over the washer and dryer. It makes sorting black and dark blue socks easier. :) Again, CT is a matter of taste. You may find you like 5000K or even 6500K. The other factor to consider is color rendering index (CRI). CRI is, roughly speaking, a measure of how evenly the light is distributed across the color spectrum in its color temperature. A light can have an averaged-out CT of, say, 2700K, but be "peaky," with some parts of the spectrum too high, and some parts too low. This causes certain colors to look odd, even though white items may look right. Low CRI is the reason that cheap fluorescents and LEDs sometimes make furnishings and clothes look discolored. Without getting too technical with a formal definition of CRI, let's just say that a CRI of 100 is perfect. A halogen incandescent lamp is effectively 100 CRI. On the other end of things we find those pinkish high pressure sodium (HPS) streetlights that make everything look grey, with a CRI of around 20. I think CRI is one reason that almost everyone hated the ghastly old cool white fluorescents -- their CRI was often pretty low, typically 60-65. The warm white fluorescents of the 1950s through 1970s were actually worse, around 50-55 CRI. The old fluorescent grow lights were a special case because they were designed with deliberate peaks at light frequencies that plants thrive on. They actually had a negative CRI. Except for really cheap replacement linear T12 fluorescents, those low CRI lights are pretty much history. Today most good fluorescents (compact and linear) and LED retrofits are over 80 CRI. Some get into the 90s. Again, this is personal, but I find that once CRI gets into the upper 80s and low 90s, it's as good as it needs to be, and 80-85 is entirely acceptable. As they say, YMMV.

So I just had the exact same situation. the smaller downrod hanging off center would cause a wobble issue. I reused the old half ball thing at the top of the fan that slides into the support bracket And at the bottom where it connects to the fan I shimmed the Downrod to the center of the fan and tightened the set Screws. I just used a couple of small screws that i got off the old fan and cut the heads off the screws and wedge on the side opposit the set screws that righted up against the Dow rod. It worked beautifully and didn’t even need balancing once it was hung. Saved time and money

Does your new fan have a remote control? You might be able to just wire the two wires on the fan to your one switch, and control the fan and light separately with the pull chains on the fan. I have the reverse problem - I bought a new "high efficiency, DC motor" fan, with remote control. I have two circuits to the fan box, but can't separate the wires in the fan to use the circuits independently. Older style fans, with pull chains can be wired separately, but not the new ones.