Halogen get hot so avoid those.

LED is OK. Some ceiling fans (with remote control) may operate the bulbs on what's essentially a dimmer circuit (even if they only turn fully on or off) so dimmable LEDs (not all are dimmable) may be needed.

Q #1) My bulbs are LED and Halogen. Can I still use one of these?

A: Yes

Q #2) I thought they were 100w & 75w but I think they're actually 14w & 53w, made to be comparable to 100w/75w in the old style bulbs... Is this correct?

A: Yes. And, since actual wattage is the only number you need to pay attention to (so that you don’t exceed it), the 14w and 53w bulbs will put you safely under the 60w max.

FYI: I, too, like a lot of light and did exactly what you’re doing, replacing the 60w bulbs in my hallway ceiling light fixtures with 75 watt equivalent halogen bulbs with greater light output (higher lumens). In fact, I think I used those same bulbs you have pictured—the 53w.

Edited to add that your parents should be thanking you for replacing the CFLs; they are AWFUL!!

Try the led bulbs first. Halogens don't last as long and use more electricity. There are led versions that work with dimmers. 14w will save you a lot on electricity. 1600 lumen bulbs are out there. You could replace all your bulbs will leds and save even more. Leds last for many years.

If the bulbs are going to be enclosed (like in a bowl that has a lid on it), the LED's may fail early.

If a fixture says rated for maximum wattage bulb of 75 watts can you use an LED bulb that says equivalent to 100W but the actual bulb wattage says 15W? Do you go by the actual watts of the bulb or the equivalent wattage?

See what I wrote above, vinmarks.

Thanks sammy I just want to make sure I m understanding correctly. I have 2 pendant lights over my island. The bulbs that are in there now are 60W equivalent, 3000K and 750 lumens. If we want more light do I go for higher wattage, higher lumens or both? I know the 3000K is the color. Does going up to 4000K give brighter light or just bluer light?

The "equivalent" value is a purely marketing gimmick because people are used to just thinking about incandescents where the higher the wattage means more light.

But when you are talking about comparing different methods of lighting (incandescent, fluorescent, LED, etc) then the wattage comparison that people have gotten used to using as a guide for light output is meaningless. So they came up with the 'equivalent' nonsense.

(Note, that while it's nonsense, but can still be helpful as long as you understand what it actually means)

The real value for light output is lumens. I don't think I've ever seen an incandescent light packaging that told you that value, but they probably should.

Once people get used to comparing the 'lumens' values, then the 'equivalent' value will probably go away.

Thanks for all the information.I feel I've got a grasp of things now. I was going by the equivalent wattage for some of the light bulbs in my fixtures. If my fixture said 75 watt max I went and used a 75 equivalent wattage bulb. Now I know better. My kitchen island lights are not providing enough light so I'm going to buy higher lumen bulbs to see if that helps. We are sticking with 3000K for now because that color seems good but may branch out and try 4000K to see what difference it makes. I had to read up on shape and base type as well. I kept seeing A19 and A21 and then E26. Got that figured out too. Who would think it's such a production to get light bulbs.

Just to say ... I've changed all bulbs in my house to 5,000K (daylight) LED except except a broom closet and couple table lamps.

Majority are Walmart Great Value brand, a few are GE or Cree, and all the floods for ceiling can fixtures are Utilitech. I tried Cree floods, they didn't last but a few weeks, had three replaced via warranty then gave up on them.

Varying wattage/equivalency depending on how much light I want at the location. For example, the fixtures in my showers are rated for 60-watt incandescent, I changed them to 100-watt equivalent LED (14-watts), much better light in there. A few instances are overly-bright, such as a ceiling fan in a BR with four 60-watt equiv (rated 800 lumens each. 40-watt equiv would be sufficient.

I was heading toward cataract surgery at the time and the world had gone dim. The difference in light color was a little jarring at first (I did not change everything at once, project done over months) but I grew accustomed to it quickly and everywhere I go now that has soft white looks odd, LOL.

dadoes I think we will slowly change some lights out now that I understand the LED stuff. I don't know about 5000K. It may be too blue for me. We are in a log cabin and I don't know if bluer light would look right. My under cabinet lights have 3 settings. 2700K, 3000K and 4000K. We like the 3000K best. 4000K was too blue and 2700K was too yellow. It may also depend on what the light is being used for.

Thank you all for your contributions… LOL at the person who said my parents should be thanking me for getting rid of their CFL’s... ha ha! Thats actually very relevant to me because my dad can get a bit crazy about energy bill, yells at us for having too many lights on, etc. I can’t wait to show him this!! If anyone else has anything to contribute to that, please do!

Apologies for the length of this post, but I hope those with the patience to get through it find it useful.

To each his own on color temperature (CT). I grew up with incandescent lights, and learned to dislike cool white (4100K) fluorescents in kitchens, schools, offices, and stores. So, I find anything from 4000 deg K up too garish and cold in most cases.

What a lot of folks don't realize about incandescents is that with all other things being roughly equal, the higher the wattage, the higher the CT. I think that's why a room lit brightly with 2700K compact fluorescents or LEDs somehow doesn't seem quite right to me. Conversely, a dimly lit room at 4000K or 5000K CT looks to me like a drizzly, depressing, grey cloudy day.

I find that I prefer around 2700K for normally lit rooms, and around 3000-3500K for brightly lit rooms. Many stores don't stock 3500K, so 3000K is generally close enough. I can tolerate 4000K if the room is really bright, but would rather have less.

When you get to 5000K and up -- that's parking lot lighting, IMO. Ugh. Not in the house. However, I have a 5000K fluorescent over the washer and dryer. It makes sorting black and dark blue socks easier. :)

Again, CT is a matter of taste. You may find you like 5000K or even 6500K.

The other factor to consider is color rendering index (CRI). CRI is, roughly speaking, a measure of how evenly the light is distributed across the color spectrum in its color temperature.

A light can have an averaged-out CT of, say, 2700K, but be "peaky," with some parts of the spectrum too high, and some parts too low. This causes certain colors to look odd, even though white items may look right. Low CRI is the reason that cheap fluorescents and LEDs sometimes make furnishings and clothes look discolored.

Without getting too technical with a formal definition of CRI, let's just say that a CRI of 100 is perfect.

A halogen incandescent lamp is effectively 100 CRI. On the other end of things we find those pinkish high pressure sodium (HPS) streetlights that make everything look grey, with a CRI of around 20.

I think CRI is one reason that almost everyone hated the ghastly old cool white
fluorescents -- their CRI was often pretty low, typically 60-65. The warm
white fluorescents of the 1950s through 1970s were actually worse, around 50-55 CRI.

The old fluorescent grow lights were a special case because they were
designed with deliberate peaks at light frequencies that plants thrive on.
They actually had a negative CRI.

Except for really cheap replacement linear T12 fluorescents, those low CRI lights are pretty much history. Today most good fluorescents (compact and linear) and LED retrofits are over 80 CRI. Some get into the 90s.

Again, this is personal, but I find that once CRI gets into the upper 80s and low 90s, it's as good as it needs to be, and 80-85 is entirely acceptable. As they say, YMMV.