Thought I make a comment on something I found in relations to the inside bulbs staying on and possibly causing overheated compartments or even a fire on LG refrigerators. I have a Kemore refrigerator which is made by LG and I'm having problems with my freezer fan not coming on. Replaced the fan and found out that the fan was good all along and that it was a problem with the electronic control board (PCB). In the process of troubleshooting the problem I bought the wiring schematic of this particular refrigerator and came across an issue with the wiring schematic. When I physically dismantled the middle refrigerator vent and cool air track where the light bulb is mounted I found a thermal switch sensor mounted against the light bulb compartment. This thermal switch sensor is not depicted in the wiring schematic. I believe this was an after modification that was done. The thermal switch sensor should act as a safeguard against the light bulb compartment getting too hot and there by shutting off the circuit (current) to the light bulb. Evidently LG has been working at fixing the problem of the bulbs staying on while the doors of the refrigerator are closed. Now the only thing to do is find out if the refrigerator you have or are contemplating on buying has been modified with the thermal switch. Hope this helps.

Turns out the child lock indicator is broken on our machine and is now always lit up, which is what confused us until I figured it out. Now, the only way to know if the child lock is active or not is by pressing a button and see if it activates or responds with CL. If it responds with CL, then we unlock it with the 3-second press-and-hold of the two buttons that are indicated by the smiling lock icon.

I know it's been a few years since you posted this, but I was searching the web for something about the beeper on the LG dryer I have from 2007 (DLE9577SM) which I wonder is your model...could you have transposed the four number to 5977? The beeper has never worked when on the wrinkle setting, which I think is rediculous. I've never gotten a definitive answer from LG...they read from a manual and aren't much help and I can't find a local tech that really knows LG to talk to me. My little clear buttons for the beeper, and the 2 other clear buttons for more or less time have never lit up, HAVE YOURS? The beeper button on my matching washer stays lit up all the time when in use. I hope this reaches you as I'm really baffled about this dryer and I have an extended warranty if it needs repair. Thanks for your help!

"1) The caulk between the threshold and the brick has some gaps after partially drying - this one seems like an obvious problem that the installer should immediately address. See the picture below" If he followed the manufacturer's instructions, the caulk doing the work wouldn't be visible, as it would be under the threshold. If you can slide a thin blade under the threshold easily, it probably isn't there and the caulk you see is only topical. I looks a bit sloppy to me. "2) The installer added 2 pieces of wood trim on the inside - I have no idea why this was added..the only thing I can think of is that without this extra trim the strikeplate may stick out further? See pics. The problem with this wood trim is it does not match up smoothly with the vertical trim that it meets on top of the door....maybe when painted I would not notice." Are you sure you meant "vertical trim" and not "horizontal head casing"? I believe this trim is to cover where the new pre-hung jamb meets the sidelight jambs. "3) When closed, there is pressure on the door bolt/lock. In other words when I turn the handle the door pops open to relieve the pressure. If I swing the door close (not excessive force), the lock often will not catch. Is this something that should be expected to subside over time...or does it sound like the strikeplate/locking mechanism is not properly aligned? also only the very end part of the locking mechanism(bar? not sure of the formal name) actually sits in the strike plate." You want a new door to seal tightly; the gaskets will break in eventually. The deadbolt should throw completely into the pocket in the jamb. "4) There is a very narrow widening of a small piece of trim that runs parallel to the threshold on the floor. This seems very minor, but was still noticeable to me. See picture." I can't see this. "5) The screw caps from one of the sidelites were missing. The installer said they would return to install the missing caps. However, it it expected for the installer to sand down any caps that jut out or is that not typically included?" This is a tough call. You want a happy customer, but jeezeâ¦. "6) There are some other areas where there the caulk does not seem well applied. I've included an example where there is a a small missing spot right in the corner. Is this sloppy work or nothing with which to be concerned?" This guy flunks caulking. "7) Lastly in one bottom corner, where the new door frame meets the existing houseframe, there is a small amount of wood rot (softness in about a 1 inch section of the house trim/support). The installer informed us that they would replace an rot under the old door so I would expect them to replace this too." It could be consolidated with epoxy, but I can't imagine a mega-store installation including such a thing. Here is a link that might be useful: Door Installation