Ahh, that's a major difference in how we do laundry. Most (everyone) people I know save up their laundry and do it all on one day, known as "Laundry day!" The machines otherwise just sit idle. If you're doing 1 load every day, you could just put it in and go about your business until it's done and you wouldn't really notice the cycle length. Just a different approach to a common problem. Here you pretty much have to dry everything in the dryer because of the temperature outside. Our houses are built so tight that any excess humidity either has to by mechanically removed or it breeds mold. Triple pane windows, 6-12" thick walls with fibreglass or foam insulation, 12-24" of insulation in the attic, etc. We have a dehumidifier for the summer months. Many newer houses here have air-to-air heat exchangers to provide fresh air year round without exhausting large amounts of heat. The most popular brand of HRV (hear recover ventilator) was actually founded in my city many years ago. Perhaps Miele directs more R&D Euros into the washers than the matching dryers? I understand that many Euro households don't even have a dryer. You would never see that here. Canadian laundry requires a washer and a dryer, period. Most of our quality problems surround the dryer. Nine months in and we're already on our second one and it's not going to last. Lip2000, I don't have a problem with the price of a Miele as long as they last. I'm sick of the "disposable" appliance culture here in North America. If our washer and dryer actually made it to 20 years like Miele suggests they should, they would be far cheaper than 10 2-year Kenmores. My problem is that they don't inspire confidence when parts fall out. All in all, Miele has failed us on every measurable: Performance Build quality Service

Just an update: It's here, sitting proudly just off my living room, which is not where I had hoped for it to go. Try as I did, it is just too deep (front to back) to fit in my bathroom where my old washer is. So it will go near my galley kitchen. There's still alot of work to do to get it up and running. I need to add a 120-240V/15A circuit breaker (or a fuse or easy-install kit for the existing 240V outlet) and run new wiring. A means of attaching it to the kitchen sink to drink from and drain to. A Y-adapter to feed cold water to both the cold and hot inlets. (I've relegated most of my installation issues to this thread). My dryer - an old, small GE ventless unit - is starting to become unreliable too. If I find a decent used condensation dryer at a good price I may get that too. But here I see I run into a problem - evidently Miele hasn't made 6kg ventless condenser dryers. They have lots of 5kg condensation dryers, but I don't think they can be stacked atop a 6kg washer like the W1926. Correct? I'm in the dark about whether some sort of stacking kit is needed to stack a Miele dryer atop a Miele washer, and whether only certain combinations of W & D can be stacked. It appears it is although I can't find any references to specific model numbers and the stacked machines shown in their manuals don't seem to list any particular additional hardware, Anyone here familiar with this? And is stacking a non-Miele condensation dryer on a Miele washer verboten? Is there some sort of homemade mount you can build that will keep the dryer from sliding off? If I had a closet, I'd just build a shelf a few inches above the washer and be set. I could reverse the old layout - washer near kitchen, dryer in bathroom. Then I could use any brand. I have a 120V/15A dryer now but can go to a 240V condensation dryer that should increase my options considerably. Miele and Bosch seem to sell for much more secondhand than Asko or other brands. I'm also seriously confused about the plugs, outlet, and wiring required by the W1926. It's rated at 120-240V/15A, yet is fitted with a Hubbell NEMA 14-20P plug, the type normally found on a grounded 125V/250V 20A (not 15A) device. The electrical cord is a Carol 12/4 Type SJ (UL) (also listed as CSA Type SJ FT-2), with a sticker noting that the black and red wires are the L1 and L2 hots respectively, with a white neutral and green ground. Why not 14-gauge cable ending in a usual 240V/15A plug as Bosch uses? Further confusing things, the Miele owner's manual seems to indicate the plug is a NEMA 14-30P, the big ones normally found on 240V/30A dryer plugs. Could this not be the original cable or plug? The new double-pole circuit breaker should clearly be 15A but should 14-3 w/ground or 12-3 w/ground NM-B (Romex) cable be run? (I lean towards the latter since that's what the washer cord uses). I may have been better off with one of the 5kg Miele washers - it would have fit in my bathroom and I could stack a Miele condensation dryer over it eventually and save space. They are essentially alike only 4 inches shallower front to back, and with (even) higher spin speeds. But I hope to someday have a larger home and then I can take the W1926 with me and use any ol' normal vented dryer, and I'll be glad I have the extra space. The Miele really is nicely designed - very straightforward controls that tell you what they're doing - no "workout wear" or "kid's clothes" settings that leave you wondering what it's really doing. And of course, actual temperature markings, a rarity in U.S.-market washers. Can you imagine an oven that didn't show temperatures, just "cold", "warm", and "hot"?

I can't help you with those Miele model numbers. I want to point of that the LG you ordered does not have an internal heater. I would rethink that if I were you. This from LGs website: "... the LG WM2140CW Washer does not have an internal heating element within the washer, and is limited to the hot water delivered to it from the home's water heater. This limits the highest temperature achievable by the washer, and thus washers without internal heaters cannot offer Sanitary cycles of Extra Hot water temperatures. If you need to wash baby's diapers or do laundry loads of heavily soiled clothes (i.e. construction worker's clothes), then a model with an internal water heater may suit your needs better. If so, the WM2350HWC may be worth a look." Having said that, my parents have the WM2140 set and really like it. I warned them too about the heater but they didn't "heed" my warning :) I've had both a machine without and now a machine with (Miele W4842). I do think the heater is helpful for hotter washes and sanitizing the machine. I will point out though that my Miele keeps consistent temps in all programs except Normal. The LG will only engage the heater for certain settings like sanitary or extra hot. I believe there is significant heat loss from the water travelling to the machine and then the cold interior and clothes cooling it even further. Maybe the second hand Mieles would be a good choice?

I have the W1986 which is 6K, slightly larger than the 1113, older than it, but newer than the 1918. I adjust the detergent to the amount of soil and clothes being washed. If the soil is light(not really visible) I will use 1 teaspoon. If the soil is light but the load is large I will use 2 teaspoons. As the soil gets heavier I increase the amount slightly but only go over 2 tablespoons for one load which is heavily soiled white with ground in dirt(white socks and underwear). My water hardness is currently 16 grains per gallon. For heavy soiled items I do a prewash with a bit of detergent. The prewash starts with cold water which is gradually heated to warm. You use the heavy soil button to get a prewash. For very heavy soiled items you can use the extended option. This will increase the time for all parts of the cycle. I would try these ideas before increasing the amount of detergent. The higher the temperature used the more active the detergent becomes. I think the 1113 can heat to 190F or 205F so you may want to use less detergent when using these temperatures. You will find the temperatures listed on the quick start program guide. Also if you are using PERSIL for whites, it already contains oxygen bleach so adding oxiclean is a no no and will cause excess foaming and poor rinsing. Vinegar I would only use 1 tablespoon or less. FS I use less than the lowest amount the manufacturers recommend.