Here's what I've discovered after some further investigating. If I switch the power to the furnace off then back on I hear a few clicks then it runs perfectly and shuts off at the proper setting but doesn't come back on unless I repeat the above procedure.Even stranger, the humidifier was running when the furnace was off.What do you think?

I would advise thoroughly investigating a new boiler system and keeping the radiators as a lot can be done with modern hydronic systems. They are very efficient, up to about 96%; they can be wall mounted and are very compact taking up no floor space at all. They can also incorporate an instantaneous domestic hot water capability so you would not require a reservoir tank or separate device. Also they are quiet and induce no drafts. High efficiency condensing gas boilers can be side vented meaning that the present condition of the chimney may not be a factor at all. Having NG means that you can have a gas stove, dryer, fireplace and outdoor BBQ. A gas stove and fireplace would mean that you would have access to heat and cooking during a power failure. Keep in mind that a hydronic system, particularly one with cast iron radiators, is fully compatible with a geothermal heat pump that can provide heating, domestic hot water and central cooling without ever having to install duct work. Keeping the hydronic system will also maintain the original look and feel of the home as well as its heritage value as time goes by. Any renovation or new addition could also include radiant in-floor heating with the hydronic boiler system. This is particularly nice in kitchens and bathrooms. These are highly prized features when it's time to sell. Even with, or dare I say especially with the 'old' cast iron radiators, a modern hydronic system in the 21st century is NOT your parent's heating system at all! SR

I totally disagree about having to drain the pipes. Open all the sink cabinet doors and use space heaters. Find out if the weather is going to be clear as well as cold. If the sun is shining, your home will gain heat during the day through the windows. You also already have a warm thermal mass if the house was warm when the furnace quit and you have a basement. Your basement may not feel warm to you, but it is a far distance from freezing. It will help keep the pipes from freezing during these four days. If the weather is going to be cloudy or windy, the single digits are going to last well into the daytime, or the pipes are close to walls that are not well-insulated, then provide space heating nearby or get heat wrap for the pipes. You could also go to Lowe's or HD and get the foam insulation tubes that are split and fit right over the pipes. Unless your furnace was a hot water system that also provided your hot water, you also have the heat of the water heater to keep at east the hot lines and the fixtures and drains warm. We all should probably insulate those hot pipes, anyhow. Kerosene heaters give me the willies, I hear too much about people being asphyxiated by not venting them properly. I think electric is safer. Either way, someone has to stay home if you are running space heaters.

There is often debate over whether it's necessary to filter a pond, and always a few people who claim they have great luck with letting the pond "go natural" with no human interference. A man-made pond, though, is not a natural environment, and will only benefit from some form of filtration or at least aeration. Filtering keeps the water cleansed of organic wastes that can cause cloudy, smelly, murky, or even toxic water. It simplifies maintenance, conserves water by cleansing and recycling it, and can help create "gin-clear" water that allows optimal viewing of the pond and its inhabitants. If you plan on creating a water garden and keeping only plants in the pond, you should be able to get away with little or no filtration, depending upon the type and number of plants you grow. A small pump used with a spitter, fountain, waterfall, or similar feature, should create enough movement to keep the water from stagnating, and diligence in keeping dead plant life from accumulating in the water will help maintain water clarity. However, most people find that, once they've created the pond, they want to add fish, and this is when filtration becomes vital. The more fish you have, the more filtration is necessary to keep the water and the fish healthy. Fish produce ammonia from both their gills and kidneys. Ammonia is also produced from other organic matter decaying in the pond. Whatever the source, ammonia is toxic to fish and must be removed from the water. Frequent water changes and ammonia binding water conditioners will help temporarily, but the addition of a biological filter is the best and easiest way to deal with this toxin. Briefly, a biofilter works by creating a suitable living environment for certain types of bacteria which do the cleaning for you. As pond water is slowly pumped though the biofilter, Nitrosomonas bacteria consume the ammonia, turning it into nitrites (which are also harmful to fish.) Nitrobacter bacteria then oxidizes the nitrites into nitrates, which become food for the plants in your pond. Although these "good bacteria" are present on every surface in your pond, they are not usually there in large enough numbers to reliably cleanse the water of these compounds that are so deadly to fish, and so biofiltration is strongly recommended when there are fish in the pond. Mechanical filtration (that which removes solid waste) is always beneficial, but simply keeping the water clear of solids does not guarantee fish-safe water. Ammonia and nitrites can not be seen except through the use of water test kits. Ideally, water will first pass through some type of mechanical filter that removes solids prior to entering the biofilter, where the toxic compounds are oxidized to nitrates and sent back to the pond where the nitrates will be absorbed by the plants therefore keeping the pond healthy for both your fish and plants. These beneficial bacteria cease to function at temperatures below fifty degrees, so running the biofilter all winter is futile if you're in a cold winter area. The fish will not be eating and producing their usual amount of waste during the winter, so the biofilter will not be needed anyway. Once the autumn temperatures are below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, clean and store the biofilter until spring returns. If you're lucky enough to live in a warm climate, it should be kept running year round. Start the filter up again in the spring as the temperatures get into the upper 40s to low 50s. The nitrogen cycle takes about four to six weeks to establish once the bacteria begin colonizing in the warmer temperatures, so be diligent about testing your water for ammonia and nitrites if the fish are eating. It would take far too many pages to describe here all the types of filters available. Research and ask questions of more experienced ponders, and join several of the informative forums on the Internet. Do not always believe a manufacturer's advertisements, and if tempted to buy something being touted by a salesperson, research it before making an investment. There are many plans for do-it-yourself filters that are simple to make, produce excellent results, and are much less expensive than most of the commercial filters available. And remember - you can never have too large a biofilter! Ronaye, Steve and David