is this leak due to condensation?
Kiran K
16 days ago
last modified: 16 days ago
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klem1
16 days agoAnne Duke
15 days agoRelated Discussions
Dehumidification heat gain due to condensation
Comments (2)Thanks, I have a "killawatt" meter that measures all important electrical data: volts, amps, watts, volt-amps, power factor, kwh, and time. The point of my post was I understand the simple act of converting water vapor into liquid water releases the heat held in the vapor, i.e., the heat of condensation... a heat gain. The reverse, evaporation takes heat out of the system as it energizes the water to turn it into vapor. So, my conclusion is the dehumidifier is a better heater (not its intended use) than a resistive heating element. On the other "bad news" I believe an air conditioner that vents its heat outside still loses cooling due to the fact that the water condensed by the cooling coils liberates the heat of condensation and thereby reduces the amount of cooling delivered to the inside. The question has been on my mind for some time. I looked at an article on: http://www.udarrell.com/latent_heat_condesaton.html and was using that information to calculate the "extra" heat my dehumidifier is supplying to my basement. In the summer I don't want the heat, but I do want to get rid of the moisture. As a foot note I add the 70 pint dehumidifier was purchased a few weeks back to displace a 24 pint (or thereabouts) dehumidifier, not so much to get more capacity, but to get lower cost. The cost of water removal with the 70 pint unit is less than 1/2 the cost (electric power cost) of the small unit, i.e., the big unit is both more "powerful" and more efficient. I suppose due in part to a more efficient compressor....See MoreMarvin Clad Wood Conduct Cold, Leak Air and Condense
Comments (10)We are also having problems with one of our aluminum clad mahogany interior Marvin's. We have others in this house that we've replaced as we work around the remodel. One of them upstairs is a mulled unit just like the one that is giving us trouble. same as the original poster, the cold air isn't coming from around the sides where you would expect to find it from a poor installation. It's coming from the edges of the actual window that you lift up and down. My husband just checked the temperature and it's 40° and you can feel the air coming through. It would move curtains if we had any up. The seal is different on this one for some reason, so maybe that's the difference. It feels more rigid than the spongy seals on the other Marvin's we have in the house. Regardless, I guess we need to call someone out to take a look at it. If they call it pass through air and say that's normal, we're going to have to rethink our plan for the rest of the house. We are about to put Windows all over a porch that will be four seasoned and opened to the house. We certainly don't want to put all the money into climatizing the room just to have freezing air come in through the expensive windows. I'm not sure what the accusations are about in the comments. but I did want to let everyone know that we are having the same problem with one of our mulled windows....See MoreNew skylight no leak but dripping condensation
Comments (4)Great commentary from WoW. The condensation on the skylight is only a visible symptom of the problem, which is that you have too much moisture in the room (or at least that area of it), given the exterior temperature, which affects that interior surface temp of the skylight. There are two ways to go about this: 1) Not much thinking involved. Run the fan more, particularly before bed and after bathing and see how that helps 2) Get down to the nitty gritty science. Get RH readings in the room and in the skylight "tunnel". Get temp readings inside and out, etc. Use this: www.dpcalc.org tool to determine where you need the RH to be based on the temp to prevent condensation. Also, ensuring that there is no excessive air leakage in the skylight area as well as checking the operational efficiency of the fan, are potential steps to take if some data is not lining up, such as if no matter how much you run the fan, you can't get the RH down (would indicate that the fan is not working well)....See MoreCondensate Lines correct? Secondary leaking into tub after flush…
Comments (6)OP, one thing missing in the image I see is that the equipment assembly that includes the coil isn't sitting in a pan, as with water heaters. And probably should be, though it may not be possible to slip one in under existing equipment. The pan would itself have a separate pipe run to drain outdoors or to a different part of the house's outflow system. And, often a water leak monitor to sound an alert should water be accumulating in it. I agree that you should call a HVAC tech, the line would seem to be clogged. Where I am traps are not required. I have one at one place (equipment in an attic) and not at another with two systems (equipment not in an attic). Both new systems I had installed in the past few years. The attic equipment drains to an under sink connection with the secondary on the underside of a masonry window sill outside. The other place without traps, the condensate pipes drain alongside the foundation. For the undersink drain connection, a piece like that pictured below is part of the vertical sink drain assembly. The connection itself slopes upward and is many inches (6?) above water level of the sink trap....See MoreKendrah
15 days agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
15 days agoKiran K
15 days agomike_home
15 days agoKiran K
15 days agoklem1
15 days agomike_home
15 days agoKendrah
15 days agoKiran K
15 days agomillworkman
15 days agomike_home
15 days agoA Mat
15 days agoKiran K
15 days agolast modified: 15 days agosktn77a
14 days agoKiran K
11 days agoKendrah
6 days ago
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Kiran KOriginal Author