We bought a scratch and dent Jacuzzi whirlpool tub, but need to cover the one crack. The tub is rectangle with no skirt, and has a lip all around. The crack and small hole are on the outside of the lip at the foot of the tub, near the corner that projects out into an open space in the room. Buying another tub is not an option at this point. The tub is squeezed into a tight corner, so we can't have the surround stick out on the cracked side more than an inch or two (less is better). This is because of the toilet's location, which had to be changed after we'd already bought the tub. We had planned to build a short wall with shelves next to the tub on that end, but there's no longer room for that design. Any creative solutions to cover the crack on that end, and make a surround that doesn't stick out much? Know where I can find pictures of surrounds in tight corners? Thanks!

I'm curious as well..we want jacuzzi or whirlpool tub in and want to place shower beside it...but now are curious if we can because of any required clearances...is there info anywhere that discusses the basic area needed in a bath remodel to allow for a typical install, whether it be a corner tub or a regular tub? This would in turn tell us about the tub deck we should allow. Thanks...and thanks for this thread!

"I could also just get a pull-down faucet for the sink and aim it at the tub to fill it." You could - but you won't like it. The most one of those will fill is 2.2 gallons a minute - some less that that. Divide your tub's capacity by that and you're looking at 20 minutes to fill +/- Not good. beekeeper - I have one of these and have placed more than half a dozen in projects over the past few years. What you get for your money is a machined brass body that mounts in the ceiling or wall and a plated trim piece. The body is a substantial piece of hardware and chrome,brass, nickel plating costs $$$ too. Whether that's all worth 500 + bucks, is up to you. Like davidro says, it doesn't matter what the delivery system is, this is just an opening for hot water to come out of, albeit one with a bit of engineering. GD & Spanish - the splashing is very much dependent on the mounting height of the unit AND the tub selected AND the location of the water column inside the tub. Mine hardly splashes at all. The ones I have seen that splash only do so for a minute or so until their is enough of a pool in the tub to counteract it. Flat bottom tubs with tall ceilings are going to splash more than one from 7' into a sloped contact point in the tub. Besides , we're talking water in a bathroom, generally tiled so what's the big deal ??? It's not like the amount of splash is the same as taking a shower and leaving the door open. 2. While you are correct in that "the water cools off much more than it would from just a regular tub filler", it's not as if it cools off enough for anyone without a thermometer to tell a difference, and a very sensitive one at that! Sure the air cools the water more from a stream falling from 8 feet than one falling from two feet. But bath water that is 100 + degrees is not going to cool down to 90 deg. in the xtra 1-2 seconds it takes it to fall from the ceiling- get real. Additionally , that filler produces a very dense column of water (laminar) that has little to no air in it, so one might argue it will be hotter and less prone to heat loss than a "regular" filler that introduces room temp air into it's stream - thus cooling it off on it's way to the tub. So don't worry Spanish -your tub will still be plenty hot with that filler if you choose it. IT'S A NON -ISSUE people. I've already alluded to the real issue for lower tub temps - FILL TIME. That's directly related to the delivery system ( valve). If your valve and accompanying filler will only deliver 5 gallons a minute it's going to take a while to fill an 80 gallon tub, and there will be some heat loss. Select a valve that delivers 20 gallons a minute and you can be soaking quicker that most people can undress. Here is a link that might be useful: laminar valve body - see page 2

I'm not certain of your nomenclature, so I'll try to clarify first? I think when you're writing "lip" you're referring to the tub deck and not the rim of the tub. If by "lip" you indeed mean tub deck...the flat surface surrounding the tub that the tub rim will sit upon...and you're mounting the faucet on the tub deck? You'll need to reconcile the "reach" of the faucet with the width of the rim of the tub so that water easily clears the rim of the tub and flows into the tub. Remember that the escutcheons that sleeve over the hot and cold risers will require the riser holes to be a certain distance from the rim of the tub so the escutcheons can sit flat on the surface of the tub deck. Plus you'll need to reconcile the "depth" of the faucet, including the hand held head when the hand held is hung on the cradle...so that the hand held head doesn't knock the wall when you hang it up. I'd recommend you get the spec sheets for the tub and faucet you are using. With those in hand, you can make sure that the reach of the faucet is great enough so that water clears the tub rim for where you want to locate the faucet. The spec sheet for the faucet should include a depth measurement of the faucet itself, so that you can make the deck wide enough so the you have clearance for the faucet, as well as making it easy to remove and replace the hand held from the faucet cradle without knocking the hand held against the wall behind the faucet.