anyone else have stilt grass in the lawn?
birdgardner
19 years ago
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birdgardner
19 years agoRelated Discussions
Anyone else planted 'Fleur de Lawn' before?
Comments (4)Oregon, I'm sure your daughter wishes to pass on some insight into what she is studying and lets you in on a type of grass that isn't grass but is very low maintenance type of groundcover. But before you take her thoughts on the matter to heart too soon, do some research of your own; find out about the make-up of this special lawn. Containing clover, dwarf perennial ryegrass and other perennials of short size....namely English Daisy, and achillea, it does suggest your lawn problems are over. But do consider what exactly each of the additions does for your ground. Clover's been around for hundreds of years...and it can make for a great lawn area if you need something that will overcome obstacles that ordinary grass cant. But clover aint grass, it will not grow properly in any shaded areas. So that lets out growing under trees or in the shade of shrubs. It fills in areas very quickly and takes over grass. It needs never to be fertilized, it takes the free nitrogen out of the air. Do consider carefully before you leap from something that is what everybody else is using, to something that might not live up to your's or your daughter's expectations....See MoreCutting sod, stilt grass, and other questions
Comments (1)Core aeration is a temporary solution that might help for a short time. The long term solution to soil compaction is adding adequate amounts of organic matter to the soil. Most turf grasses do need sun for growth but there are some that can grow in shady provided the soil they are trying to grow in is a good healthy soil. A good reliable soil test is needed to determine if the soils pH and major nutrients are in balance so the grasses have a chance to grow. Japanese Stilt Grass appears to grow nest in soils that are acidic (more acidic then desirable grasses like), moist, and shady. Changing 2 or more of those conditions may be all that is needed to eliminate this invasive plant. Moving sod means stripping it with enough of the root system attached so the sod can survive in a new place. That can mean a minimum of 4 inch to maybe 6 inch depth of cut. Check with your local office of the University of Maryland Cooperative Extension Service about soil testing for soil pH and major nutrients and maybe these simple soil tests might be of some use as well. 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Here is a link that might be useful: UMD CES...See MoreJapanese stilt grass battle
Comments (3)I would talk with the people at your local Rutgers Cooperative Extension office about control of this invasive grass species and plan on a 5 year program to get it under control. Tilling may bring some seeds to the surface but it may also bury others. Since this grass is quite common along roads and other places that have relatively poor soil this may be an indication of how it grows so well and out competes native species, so a good look at the soil may well be warranted now. http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/projects/vegetative-management/publications/state-parks-invasive-species-management-quicksheets/4.-japanese-stiltgrass-microstegium-vimineum A good reliable soil test from Rutgers CES for soil pH and major nutrients before tilling that soil would be a good idea, and a look at the soil with these simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. may also help. kimmq is kimmsr...See MoreJapanese Stilt Grass
Comments (1)It would be best to get rid of it before seeding, otherwise you might be wasting your time. As you water the seed and apply starter fertilizer, the stiltgrass will happily take advantage of that as well and grow competing with the seedlings. If you have large infestation areas, glyphosate might be the best solution, it will kill the grass too and you can re-seed. If you have a lot of grass that you want to save, Acclaim herbicide will take out stiltgrass selectively. Edit: there's pictures now. There's not much fescue to save, I'd hit it with glyphosate. Get on a good pre-emergent program for next year to prevent it from happening again....See Morenjtea
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