Martie,
I love Chamaecyparis thyoides 'Rubicon' it plays and important year round role in my garden and believe it would be worthy of such an important location in your garden. I have linked you to my garden journal's list of conifers in one garden. Look down the list to find Atlantic White Cedar, move all the way to the right and double click on *view* I have photo's of this shrub in both summer and winter. For a larger view click on photo. Let me know what you think. kt

Here is a link that might be useful: Journal/Conifers/Front Entry Garden

kt: Your link is bringing me to Dave's homepage. Googled your suggestion and like it so far. Can you post the link again?

Thanks! Martie

Martie I checked the link after posted and it works for me must be a member thing. I can do one of two things post two photo's here or email you the photos if you send me your address as I can not attach photos in gw mail. kt

If I understand it correctly, this corner is on a right side of the house and facing the street.
If so, that probably would call for something substantial and evergreen. There are many Chamaecyparis obtusa (Crippsii or Confucius are my favorite) interesting cultivars that will look good there.

If winter appearance would be of less of your concern, I'd recommend to create purple/burgundy-yellow composition.
For example, Diabolo (or Summer Wine) ninebark surrounded by yellow spireas, or Royal purple smokebush with group of yellow Ch. picifera at its legs.
BTW, that PJM of yours will look great if underplanted with any of the dwarf yellow piciferas. Western exposure will keep them yellow and they'll hide bare legs of PJM that eventually will be an issue, unless you planning to prune it constantly.

A bolder off the corner, visually anchoring the planting would also work nicely. It would catch the eye, but define the corner, too.

A decision has been made and Thank You for all of your help. Camellia japonica "April Tryst" will be picked up at Logees. I think it'll be great behind the existing DA "Shropshire Lad" and the limey tint to the Kalmia will be punched a bit by the dark and glossy evergreen foliage.

I have a 6' tall and wide pile of grass clippings all nice and cooked, and since we don't use lime it won't take away the acidity.

The PJM's were sheered at about 4' when we moved in. There was exactly 3" deep of foliage on each plant, then sticks, but no disease or bugs and I was curious about color.

They ended up being just seven of about 40 shrubs that we yanked. Hacked them down to about 8" and let'em go. They are a crucial pink and the "April Tryst" will start the rosy red theme on that corner.

"Blaze" will start to bloom shortly after the PJM's (verified last season), so it'll be a nice progression. Then will be combined with the DA "SL" and Kalmia (a sport varietal given to me by a good friend).

I'm taking your advice to the garden, George, and am looking for the underplanting you suggested. It'll be just right with the coleus that thrive in between the Kalmia and PJM's.

BTW: Does anyone know the linked nursery? Nothing on Garden Watchdog.

Doesn't hurt that this treasure AT is everygreen to hide the fixtures.

Thanks, again, everyone!!

Here is a link that might be useful: Camellia japonica

Hi Martie -

Good idea to go with an evergreen! I agree that that's what's needed in this corner because of the utilities.

I *love* camellias, but I've had trouble keeping them alive. My sister (on Long Island) has dozens of them and says they're really easy ... but only in deep shade. I wonder if this one will do well in this much sun? Hers are all on the north side of her house, or under and between tall conifers. Maybe because the soil in this corner is damp you'll have more success than I've had.

April Tryst looks like a great plant... I guess I'd better bring my credit card to Logees after all.

Martie, I have an objection to your choice of Camellia, if you don't mind.
In z6 (and especially in a colder end of it) you should be looking for the fall/winter blooming cultivar, not the spring one.
When you select winter hardy, but spring blooming cultivar you still will be facing 'buds survival over the winter' issue, while with fall blooming cultivars you'll eliminate at least this part of the camellia survival equation.
In any event, I don't see how camellia could prosper (or even survive) in a such exposed corner. Could be wrong, but if it would be me, I wouldn't even attempt.
If I'd want to experiment, hardy crape myrtle (Zuni?) would be a better choice, IMO.

George: Your objection is gratefully received. I thought about the exposure on that corner, as well, and also thought about the buds issue. "April Tryst" has been proven reliably bud hardy to -10degF.

The sun could be an issue, DTD, but my feeling is that if a Kalmia and seed-sown coleus has survived with that western exposure, AT might, too. Hard to see in the pics but definitely there is also a Sambucus 'Black Lace.' Again, I take my cue from what has already done well.

I love the crape myrtle 'Zuni' and actually had one about 15 years ago before they seriously came to market. I had problems with die-back on a solid Z6 microclimate and want something that will stand on its own through the winter.

Here's a possible solution to concerns: Plant some kind of truly ornamental conifer that grows to about 15' on the right side of the corner, and place the Camellia right behind where the bog rosemary currently resides. That is definitely being moved, anyway. In about 5 years things might be a bit crowded, but at that point I'd plan on replacing a boutique conifer, anyway for overgrowth/pruning issues.

At any rate, I think it is worth a shot because if it works, it'll be amazing. If it doesn't, George, you and I have a date to go shopping :-)

Martie