Peatpod is right - it was the sealed plastic container. They need air and you sealed them up. Most bulbs can be safely stored in peatmoss or vermiculite - I've used both, and many can even be stored in the open air, but they should be stored in paper bags or cardboard boxes (a plastic box with no lid will do, but isn't great). I will also use perforated plastic veggie bags for some that are prone to drying out. At least you won't make the same mistake again :-). I did the same thing many years ago and the smell was enough to make sure I never will screw up in that way again! BP

I just noticed I was replying to a very, very old post, but figured I'd leave it in case anyone is still reading. I had a bad experience with this zinsser oil based interior/exterior cover stain as well. I did not tint but it is tintable. I used it right after buying from depot and having it shaken for 5 min at the counter. I applied on an outside beam that was partially prepped with a wood hardener after removing dry rot, but the majority was just the previous paint that was in good shape. 2 days after painting, it's still slightly tacky. I called zinsser support and they said the only thing they could think of is if I had been applied on too hot of a day, saying it needs to be under 80F. It was topped out at just under 70 the day I painted, but the sun here does get hot in the South Bay below San Francisco, so maybe the surface was hotter?? I'll check today compared to air temp. If temperature wasn't the cause, then my experience seems similar to yours. In my case it would be a huge job to remove the product from the large outdoor beam so I'm looking for other solutions. I still need to add an epoxy pc woodie filler where I had removed and cleaned out dry rot before applying the cover stain (just used to make sure the pc woodie epoxy would stick and add an extra layer of protection against the weather to the entire beam...which I now wish I had skipped!) My current plan is to wait it out a week or 2 and hopefully dries (next week is supposed to be low 70's but the rest of this week is 80's. In the upper 80's the 2nd layer is even forming a few bubbles, so I've just been popping those to make sure it dries out beneath. It's only slightly tacky, but looking for no tackiness before I take the next step. If anyone has any tips or any idea if waiting longer will help, let me know please. Thanks! And for the next time, a better product to use than this zinsser oil based primer which was highly recommended by depot.

Dear Faron: My husband read my post and made some corrections. I'll answer you and make the corrections below in UPPER CASE. I'M NOT YELLING, THOUGH :) 1) You applied a tinted latex primer over contractors work. Correct? YES 2) Exactly what primer & tone of color were used? BENJ MOORE PRIMER FRESH START ACRYLIC. STONE SOMETHING, A MEDIUM COLOR AT 50% WAS USED TO TINT. 3) Your own joint-compound repairs were done OVER this newly primed surface?? YES, BUT IT REALLY WASN'T THE SEAMS, IT WAS MORE SLIGHT LOW AREAS IN THE SKIM COAT. 4) Were YOUR repairs primed over? YES WITH THE SAME BENJ MOORE FRESH START. 5) What do you mean by the "joint-compound with a latex additive"? Or, am I mis-reading this? HUSBAND CORRECTED ME THAT IT WAS A VINYL SPACKLE. 6) At any point...was the wall ever sanded AND vacuumed off?? THE WALL WAS SANDED DOWN TO A SMOOTH FINISH AND WIPED WITH A DRY CLOTH PRIOR TO PAINTING. This is what we determined. Yesterday morning was foggy/dewy. This is being painted in our future house (old construction though) where no a/c or heat was run. Husband said the windows had condensation on the outside. The bubbling occurred most on the wall near the windows. The clue to our answer is, "Why didn't we have problems the first time we primed but had problems the second time we primed when the same products were being used each time." Now that we know the cause and will run the a/c or heater to dry any area prior to painting ever again, BUT what's the best way to handle what we have now? - Sanding, patching, repriming the bubbled areas...is it going to peel in adjacent areas? - If it didn't bubble, is it ok to paint the final coat of Benj Moore Regal Eggshell? Or do we need to Kilz now to try to prevent the whole wall from peeling off? Any insight is REALLY, REALLY appreciated. He worked a long time on that large entry way with 15' ceilings and are just sick over it. Thank you.

Sorry I was in a hurry due to the word limit. I tried less water, I tried more water. Less sun and more sun. I tried small amounts of fertilizer. I cut more holes in the planter to make sure it was draining properly. The snails were nipping at them but that shouldn't kill off an entire vine so I treated for bugs and for fungus. Nothing seemed wrong with them other than some holes in the leaves (from the snails) and the fact they were dying. I believe it's Miracle Grow Garden Soil in the planter. The morning glories are the only thing in there except the trellis. I figured being vines they choke anything else out. Many of my neighbors have them basically growing wild. I have no idea why mine just died when they were doing so well. Any advice for next season would be appreciated.