Where did I go wrong with my morning glories?
urban_sidhe
8 years ago
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zen_man
8 years agourban_sidhe
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Poor results with veggies in Al's mix - where did I go wrong?
Comments (2)I'm not sure how to say it's almost assuredly not 'Al's mix' that is to blame w/o sounding defensive, but I'll try to explain something before we try to get to the root of your troubles. If I say it's not the soil, based on my own knowledge of how it performs, it would be easy to discount what I say as simple bias; but when you scan the threads & see that hundreds of others have had excellent results, it makes it easier to see that without bias or being defensive, I can assure you that the poor results you had were not because a recipe I supplied was poorly formulated. That leaves us now to explore what the trouble might have been, and where to start looking for a solution. I can tell you though, that you'll need to offer additional input after I sketch a framework quiz. Note that I haven't rejected the soil as a possibility - only that if you followed the recipe, it wasn't the recipe at fault. We know that elements can combine to make a compound that may not resemble any of the elements in any way. Similarly, soil ingredients that may be perfectly suitable in many situations can be mixed to form a soil that is wholly unsuited to container culture, and the reasons could be myriad. The soil blends I recommend are meant to operate as a system, using as few parts as possible to provide the primaries of good aeration, water/nutrient retention, and structural durability. There is a fair amount of adaptability built into the soil. You can increase aeration or water retention by making a few changes, but once you get too far away from the particle size guidelines I mention, things can go south in a hurry. So, the first thing I would ask you to do is describe the soil. How much of what ingredients and about what sizes were the parts? The pine bark was uncomposted? What did you use for fertilizer - what rate - how often? The fertilizers you used listed the elemental nutrients included and their %s - what were they? Did you lime the soil? Do you have pictures of the stunted plants? The mix is fine for starting seeds - seeds LOVE a well aerated mix & thrive in it, as long as other cultural conditions are favorable - air:water ratio, adequate light/ temperature/ nutrients, nothing phytotoxic in the soil, no elemental toxicities (too much of a particular element). When using uncomposted bark, there would be a certain degree of N immobilization that needs compensating for, something to consider, too. Al...See MoreCan you tell me where I am going wrong with my seedlings?
Comments (3)those jiffy peat pots are notorious for containing active cobweb mold spores just waiting to get wet to start colonizing the pellet. Take some H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide) and mix it with water at a ratio of about 3 parts H20 to 1 part H2O2 and give the mold a couple direct shots. You'll want to mix this up fresh every time because H2O2 breaks down into water when exposed to light - now you know why the bottles are always brown... ;-p As a fungus, cobweb mold is a very fast colonizer and will "lock-up" a substrate (your peat moss) in no time flat and your plants are literally drowning inside the moldy peat moss because the gas exchange has come to a standstill inside your little pots. --- If you're plants down bounce back after that you'll have to either chaulk them up as a lost cause or - if you're really dedicated - you break them out of hte pots, remove as much "dirt" as you can from their roots and dip their roots directly in full-strength H2O2 and then planting them in a new medium. But unless you're dealing with some really exotic plant that's a real pain to germinate from seed (i.e. gerbera daisies) I wouldn't go through the hassle. Considering seeds are only a couple dollars each, you have to weight the effort .vs. the opportunity cost of just starting over. <shrug> I should go back to school for mycology, heh....See MoreWhere did I go wrong with pre-emergent application?
Comments (6)I'm in Greenville SC, so not too different of a climate zone. Fall of 2014, I had a similar situation as yours, but much worse. Sodded Bermuda with a massive number of broadleaf and grassy weeds (maybe about 3x what your pics show). Battled those down all of 2015 and did a lot of reading and research to figure out what my weeds were and what was the best way to make the next year better. I went with an application of Prodiamine, which is the same active ingredient in Stonewall. I had planned to do a split application, but decided the 2nd app wasn't needed because of our mild temperatures. So, it was about 0.2oz/1000 sqft applied Sept 12th 2015 with my sprayer. I went with the liquid for better coverage. This was my first time using it, and I am very impressed with the results. I have almost no broadleaf weeds so far this year *except* right around the edges of the lawn where I probably didn't spray well. In your 2nd pic, I believe the weed on the right is a Carolina Geranium, and the middle one is some sort of thistle (Creeping Thistle?). Not sure about that left one, however, Prodiamine should have fairly consistently knocked out those first two. That makes me think either the application wasn't enough, wasn't timed correctly, or wasn't spread evenly. So, if I had to suggest a change for next year, you might try the liquid instead of the granules, and apply about a month earlier. Target Sept 15th for our area, but with Prodiamine, it lasts a good amount of time in the soil, so earlier won't be a bad thing....See MoreWhere did I go wrong with my tomatoes?
Comments (3)Yup. Next time, either start them all at the same time, or raise up the little pots so that the plants are all at the same height, then put the lights very close to the leaves. Not knowing where you live (and when you can plant them outside), I could suggest that the super tall ones that you plant them lying down so that only the top leaves stick up. If planting out is a long way off, I would cut those very tall ones to above the first set of leaves, then cut the tops to about 6" and root them in water (or soil). Then you will have more sturdy plants to put in the garden when the time comes....See Moreurban_sidhe
8 years agozen_man
8 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agourban_sidhe
8 years agomnwsgal
8 years agodocmom_gw
8 years agoGerris2 (Joseph Delaware Zone 7a)
8 years agobellarosa
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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