You can't fix windburn. But if the trees are properly cared for otherwise, they should generally releaf pretty easily. Trees transported in full leaf in the back of a pick up or otherwise exposed to road wind can be badly damaged due to a combination of the strong air movement and dessication Some (like Japanese maples) to the point of death but other, tougher species, like most fruits, will survive although off to a less than auspicious start. The canopy/branch system should always be loosely tied and then covered.

Yes. Avocados are like citrus - they utilize a lot of nitrogen, so they also will be competing for nitrogen with your lawn. Avocados also do not like their roots disturbed and will not do well in a container culture (with rare cultivar exceptions). If your avocado is doing okay, then remove lawn out to the drip line and a little beyond. Avocados need a little more water on average than citrus, which is why it is probably doing better, and plus, if the leaves are drooping down and protecting the trunk from being constantly hit by the sprinklers, it might make it. Avocados are also susceptible to gummosis (foot root), so they also do not like their trunks constantly hit by sprinklers. And, they're not going to want to get hit by sprinklers. You can pull your citrus out of the lawn, and pot them up, but they can't go back where you had them, they just will not survive being constantly hit by sprinklers. Also, with your lemon tree, if you're getting sprouting from below the graft, this would be the rootstock sending up shoots, so you would want to prune those shoots off at the trunk. I can't tell for sure, because the photo isn't close enough for us to see if they are emanating from below the graft line or not. Frankly, I think you're much better off removing a strip of grass, and planting the citrus in an area where these is no grass and no sprinklers. Place them on drips or micro-sprinklers. Depending upon what kind of guava, if it's a strawberry or pineapple guava (Psidium cattleianum or Feijoa sellowiana, respectively), are less particular and more hardy. Also, they are not high nitrogen users, and don't need the heavier feeding schedule that citrus or avocados require. Patty S.

I'm pretty sure your peach trees have a nitrogen and or iron, and or magnesium deficiency, and or nematode problem. My "Florida Prince" has leaf yellowing and falling with no signs of fungus. Found enough info on the internet to narrow it down to 4 things things. LOL I applied Southern Ag's calcium nitrate, common magnesium sulfate(Epson salt), Sunniland's nematode control, and ironite. My tree is 3+ years old now and produced over 200 peaches this last season. I was using strips of bicycle inner tube to truss the branches up because it had so many peaches. I live in citrus county Florida. Very hot and humid here during the summer.. I spray with a solution of neem oil weekly to keep any fungus at bay. I hope this helps. Im sure it wont hurt anyways. I'll post results in a month or so.

I m a commercial dragon fruit grower from India . we have 10 acres of dragon fruit orchard which is planted 2014. Lat yr we had mega harvest and we are super happy . since a month we faced this yellowing of leaves and it was spread so fast and we wonder want mistake we did to get this yellowing of leaves . so , I did my study and I came across several such sites for help . To be frank all are misleading and I decided to see our mistakes and get back to our routine which we didn't follow in past few months due to expansion of dragon fruit plantations . Finally we start to get back our routine and we got it fixed 100 % with a week time all the yellowing changed to green and yellowing has come under control. so ,what all misleading information I got and it is not true . 1) Excess water will not cause such yellowing of water . ( water retention may cause ) 2) Magnesium deficiency in the soil ?? ( not at all ) 3) Excessive sunlight ? ( not at all ) so what is the reason for yellowing of leaves in Dragon fruit ? In my experience - it is a type of Entrobacter - gram negative bacteria that cause the yellowing especially at the bottom of the leaves . so we came to know the cause and we didnt had such issues before then what prevented us so far ? ... we have been using a foliar spray on regular basis since we planted and we had no such issues or minimal issues. So , my strong suggestion for those experience such yellowing of leaves in dragon fruits is - SPRAY BORDEAUX FUNGICIDE - WHAT IS THIS B..FUNGICIDE ? check in the google . since we planted our dragon fruits for commercial production we use to spray once in a month of copper sulphate + slaked lime + water to prevent such out breaks . this is one of the best solution for yellowing of leaves we have seen so far .Result seen so I thought of taking my time to share such information to help others . You may also try some fungicides and bactericides mixed foliar spray to get intense effect or control . If you use Bordeaux spray on regular basis you will get fungicide - Bactericide - calcium - Magnesium all the nutrients and protection for your plants . Hope I share some useful information .