Landscaping under a shady oak
KoolkatTampa
10 years ago
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thetradition
10 years agoalys_esmond USDA 5b Toronto
10 years agoRelated Discussions
landscape design ideas - shady formal garden
Comments (7)I would challenge your description of the area as being "devoid of landscaping." What you have there is landscaping that consists of a large tree. Seen as a positive, the tree already gives the area, in my opinion, much of what you seek: elegance and tranquility. I'd bet it's a lovely shaded glade in summer, although the foliage is too high to address the excellent point made above regarding visibility from the neighbours. Address that somehow, make the entry arbours that you suggest, and add a chair and a small table for your book and beverage, and you could already put that in a landscaping magazine. Unfortunately the tree can also be seen as a negative. The tree requires most of the nutrients and moisture that the ground there has to offer. Depending on what kind of tree it is and whether it has shallow or deep roots, you may or may not be able to plant much else successfully. The amount of weed growth is indicative of how likely it is that you can grow other plants - note the bare ground on your hellstrip, out by the street, that announces that THAT tree does not share well. There is a bit of growth between the houses, so you may be luckier there. But also, the debris from the tree gives plants below a bit of a challenge, and they may suffer; at the least they won't tend to look nice - again, depending on what kind of tree it is. For example, hostas grown near a tree that sheds constantly look like heck their entire growing season. I guess I belong to a minority that believes children can be taught not to climb into a fountain, if a fountain is what you want, but tree debris cannot, and will indeed have to be considered in your design - ask me how I know! What might be more fun and easier to maintain is a birdbath. What will work? I think you need to think of dry shade conditions when you pick your plants, and of hardscaping that can be easily cleaned of tree debris, or that still shows through piles of it. I don't really get a sense yet of what you want this area to do, which is what would dictate how to start - with a pathway, a seating destination, or just something that looks nice. If the latter, with a formal style, then a vignette of evergreens, coniferous and broadleaf, enhanced with hellebores and ferns for instance, would be excellent - if plants will grow and thrive under that tree. That's the million dollar question. One plant that I'm pretty sure could be amazing there, at certain times, would be cyclamen. You can also go container in a situation like this - that's what I do in the areas under my willow, but a willow tree is in a class of its own for interference. KarinL...See MoreLandscaping under Oak tree Pt 2
Comments (6)Coffee, how long have the broms been growing there - I'm wondering how long it takes to get that many, LOL. Great collection. I think that was a forum troll - someone just looking to "stir the pot" - a couple of other forums have had them lately, too. Carol...See MoreShady Oaks fall order
Comments (3)Shady Oaks always came in 12 packs... so I think it must be "9 for them, 3 for me..." - just a thought! Thanks for the update... in spite of buying wholesale from Shady Oaks since, I think, 1994 - I have not received any official communication from them about closing their wholesale operation... good product but they've always treated their customers like an aggravation and now, apparently, reconstitution under a new name. I guess Hans Hanson was pretty smart to jump ship to Walters in 2009... hope the new company has a better orientation toward the customers who pay thier freight......See MoreLandscaping help for shady zone 4 garden (with pics)
Comments (4)What a great house! I've been think about this . . . I think your boxwoods just have some winter damage, so I would for this summer just cut out the tan parts which are dead, and leave the rest. You may be quite surprised at how they start to fill in over the next couple of years, and they provide a consistent evergreen backbone, but if they don't you can remove them when you are ready to plant. Leave everything as is for now, except get a scuffle hoe (AKA stirrup hoe) and stir up the mulch or dirt with the weeds several times over about a week so the vast majority of the weeds die. Then put down cardboard (go around the plants) and add mulch over the cardboard. Put in a tidy edging to keep the grass out, either a deep cut V or a buried plastic or metal edging with a line of bricks along the inside edge to give the mower wheels a surface so you don't have to edge it. This will give you at least a tidy look for this season while you plan. If you want to, put a couple of large pots with flowers at the stair base. All the beds should come out at least as far as the landing at the bottom of the steps so you have room to layer in the plants rather than just have a single row. You can make it as deep as you want, but leave some room at the back to do maintenance. My foundation beds range from 6'-12' deep. Then you should start planning. Watch carefully how much light each side of the house gets. For instance, the side with the big maples will be both shadier due to the overhanging trees and drier due to the maples' roots. You can get a soil test done to see if your soil is acid or if it is alkaline or neutral as far as pH, and also see what the texture is (clay or sandy or loamy or most probably a mis of all 3.) See if water stays in a a hole for a really long time or if it drains relatively quickly. Think about whether you want the plants to come above the level of the porch or if you like the open view of lower plants from the house and looking at the house. Starting now, begin looking at and thinking about plants: - Notice that the garden linked above used shrubs and perennials to give longer season interest (though please don't plant them closer than recommended since that will create much future maintenance.) - Consider foliage (as mentioned in the article) - color, size, shape, and texture. If you only have fine-texture in green, it will be less of the varied look you are going for, so you want a range of leaves that are skinny, broad, ferny, gold, green and variegated to carry the garden when plants aren't blooming. Many shade plants bloom early, so count on foliage and annuals for summer color. - think about all 4 seasons: evergreens or bright bark or interesting branching for winter, spring and summer bloom and the foliage I already mentioned, and fall bloom and changing foliage color. - Many of the specific plants mentioned in the article won't work for you, either due to lack of hardiness in zone 4 (oak leaf hydrangea) or wrong light levels (catmint/Nepeta) so you will need to research zone 4 plants that like bright shade, darker shade, and perhaps part sun. - Visit gardens if there are open garden days in your area, notice ones in your neighborhood and as you travel around. When you see plants you like, post them on the Name that Plant forum or here to get IDs. Look at websites with garden eye candy and get books with photos from the library. That way you will start to find plants that appeal to you. Here's an article on planning a long border. The repeating part is important for it to look cohesive. Again, many of the specific plants won't work, but it may give you ideas. Some plants to check out that are hardy for you: Shrubs and shrub-sized perennials: Hydrangea paniculata/panicled hydrangea comes in various sizes from 3'-12', is long blooming, but likes at least a half day of sun or all day bright shade. Hydrangea arborescens/smooth hydrangea such as Annabelle - bright shade to morning sun. various long-blooming cultivars are pink, lime, or white, but all are about 4' Red-twigged dogwood (Cornus alba or C. sericia) come in various heights and will give you winter interest as well as some have variegation or nice fall color. Will want part sun. Kalmia latifolia/mountain laurel - evergreen and likes full shade to part shade Aralia 'Sun King' - large with gold foliage, but a perennial - part or bright shade makes the gold brighter Kerria japonica - part shade Any of the 'Lights' series of deciduous rhododendrons/azaleas - bright shade or part sun; spring flowers and fall color; needs acid soil Blueberries will grow in part sun and have flowers, berries, and fall color; needs acid soil bulbs: Daffodils - pests don't bother them and they are long-lived. Plant behind perennials so the dying foliage is hidden. Need half to all day sun. Allium Purple Sensation - part sun to full sun, but another bulb that critters won't eat Perennials: Astilbe - full shade to morning sun is fine as long as it doesn't dry out. Hosta - huge range of foliage size and color but deer like them. Part to full shade. Jacob's Ladder/Polemonium Primrose - not all like shade or will be hardy, but most will be Siberian iris - Wants 3-4 hours sun or more to bloom well. Polygonatum/Solomon's seal has variegated types Crested iris - spring bloomer, full shade is fine. spreads slowly. Digitalis - some are perennial and some biennial; toxic; half sun to full shade Ferns - shade is fine, though there are an enormous number of kinds and not all will be hardy for you Aquilegea/columbine - mostly sun to mostly shade Dicentra (AKA Lamprocapnus)/bleeding heart - mostly shade to mostly sun Hellbore - mostly shade to mostly sun Epimedium - part to full shade Closed gentian - part shade, moist Brunnera is available with green or silver-patterned leaves full to part shade Aconitum - shade is fine, but may look better in brighter shade to part sun; toxic Pulmonaria/lungwort - silvery patterns on leaves and pink/blue flowers Ligularia Mertensia/Virginia bluebells Phlox divericata Actaea Aka Cimicifuga AKA bugbane - dark red varieties shade is fine Anemone canadensis (spring) or A. Honorine Jobert (fall) - will spread vigorously, so plant to pull bunches of it out annually There may be sedges that work, but I am not familiar enough with their zone ratings to be sure Thalicturm/meadow rue Tiarella/foamy bells have flowers and many have colorful foliage...See Moremorningloree
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Michael AKA Leekle2ManE