Plants for late afternoon sun
jenn
12 years ago
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gobluedjm 9/18 CA
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Late (I Mean LATE) Afternoon Sun
Comments (8)'shade' means little ... on words alone bright shade.. cave ... very bright.. etc ... its hard to be definitive.. w/o being able to understand such ... i have some full sun plants.. in near all day shade.. from 60 foot trees.. but there is clear blue sky above.. apparently.. they get enough light.. that said.. the bigger the flower.. usually means.. the more energy they need.. and as light declines.. its ability to make a lot of large flowers starts to falter.. i guess when it all boils down.. you are just going to have to try things.. also... for most of the growing season.. 4 to 9 or 10 pm.. is a heck of a lot of sun ... presuming that is what you meant ... when 8 hours is usually considered full sun ... there isnt really much that will out and out die ... its all about vigor and performance.. and if something struggles.. you move it to more light ... if you have it ... i am sure our friends will come up with many specific suggestions ... and also keep in mind that a lot of the 'shade' plants are just shade tolerant ... and can take a lot of sun.. usually based on how well they are watered.. its all about whether the plant has enough water.. to offset increased sun.. e.g. hosta... its when they transpire more water than they are able to process .... that they start getting real ugly ... ken...See MoreNew to growing hydrangeas:Weak stems, bugs, or disease?
Comments (1)Hello, Operaghost. A small/limited amount of wilting has happened to me before and I never found an obvious cause. I first looked for borer insects but found no evidence so I finally assumed it was caused by a windy day. The problem "went away" on its own after a few days or so. Wilting/drooping of leaves indicates that the leaves are loosing moisture faster than the roots can absorb them. So lack of moisture, a windy day or placing the shrub in a windy location will cause this wilted look. It is very common during summer time on many hydrangeas. But most wilting episodes involve almost the whole shrub, not just 2-3 leaves. If the wilting episode looks extreme, water � gallon of water immediately and ask questions later. Otherwise, insert a finger into the soil to a depth of 4" and if it feels almost dry or dry then water 1/2 gallon. If the soil feels moist or wet, do not water ..... instead, check the hydrangea again in the morning. If still wilted in the morning, water 1/2 gallon. You can use the finger method in order to determine when to water. Check the moisture daily for two weeks. For a "new" hydrangea, water 1 gallon of water if it feels dry or almost dry. Each time that you water, make an entry in a wall calendar. After two weeks, review your calendar notes and determine how often you are watering (once every two/three/four/etc days for example). Then set your sprinkler to water 1 gallon of water on the same frequency. If temperatures change 10-15 degrees and stay there, re-check using the finger method for another two weeks. Wilting can also be a sign that the roots are rotting. When the roots rot, the part of the shrub above ground does not get enough moisture and you get wilting of the leaves. It is hard to differentiate by wilting from lack of moisture or wilting due to root rot. That is why it is important not to water too much. Root rot normally affects the whole shrub or almost the whole thing. Since your problem appears to be limited to just a few leaves, I would monitor the hydrangea and its soil moisture closely. For now, assume it is either too windy or that it needs more moisture; water according to the finger method. Regarding your other questions/observations, when hydrangeas get insufficient moisture, the leaves brown out starting at the edges of the leaves so again, keep an eye on soil moisture. Too much sun shows up as complete yellowing of the leaves. They turn all yellow or white-ish. To prevent this, I plant hydrangeas here such that they get shade starting at 11am-12pm. Hydrangeas are not bothered by too many pests but there will be some that take a bite and move on. As long as the issue is small and limited as you see, I would take no action. But you could release some beneficial organisms like Lady Beetles, etc Does that help you, Operaghost? Luis...See Morehosta garden in late afternoon sun
Comments (2)It sounds like that should be fine. The sun at that time of the day is not the strongest and they should do well. I would do it. My hostas are in dappled shade most of the day with a little late afternoon sun and are growing and healthy. But I am not the most expert in these things, I'm sure someone else will answer....See MoreIdeas for part shade/late afternoon sun hanging plant
Comments (20)Franksmom, my main flower garden is growing in somewhat similar conditions -- shaded by a giant tree until 11 to 12 and then fried in full sun until around 7. I've learned that shade plants won't thrive in this situation, so I'm always experimenting with full sun plants that (mostly) work. My main problem is some plants develop a definite lean that you have to correct or train (or ignore). Depending on how you feel about wildflowers, coneflowers definitely work -- I'm growing Echinacea angustifolia, E. atrorubens, E. paradoxa, and E. purpurea in the above garden. My go-to never die plants are perennial winecups (Calllirhoe involucrata) and mealy blue sage (Salvia farinacea); they don't seem to mind the reverse shade/sun, but the salvia does lean a bit. Also, I have a Gregg's mistflower that has worked well for years, and this year I'm trying a Havana snakeroot / White mistflower (Ageratina havanensis) that I'm pretty confident will grow in this area as well. As far as annuals go, Salvia coccinea pops up like a weed in this garden. I could check my records for other examples if interested. I've tried a lot of plants with various results, but I feel pretty confident with the above examples....See MoreDick_Sonia
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