I cannot vouch for the quality of the roses from Palatine since I have never purchased from them. However, I do grow roses from other suppliers that are budded onto Rosa multiflora rootstock and they grow very vigorously for me when planted in the ground. I have sandy soil where I live. Roses budded on Fortuniana rootstock grow exceedingly well also. Dr. Huey is good, but the plants usually grow much bigger and produce more blooms on either multiflora or Fortuniana. I do not recommend putting most roses that are budded into containers, except minis. That has been my experience.

Both multiflora rootstock and multiflora descended plants--Echo, Eva Teschendorff, and the early polys tend to be subject to chlorosis in alkaline soil in socal. You would think that additions of Irontite might suffice, but it does not; the preferred method is to provide additions of peat moss over time; however, the tendency to go bright lustreless green will remain. If you are not exhibiting, it matters less than if you are.

FWIW

JimD

I was told by some rose expert friends that Multiflora rootstock is not a good idea in California. In their garden roses on Multiflora grew well for a few years and then declined(not sure why) I have a number of roses that I purchased from Pickering. Most of them still seem fine but some of them have dying canes. My soil is heavey clay.

"Would the California heat kill a rose on multiflora rootstock? "

I seriously doubt that heat would kill multiflora rootstock. If it did, half of my garden would be dead by now because we had very 'California-like' conditions - heat, drought, no rain etc. with the added misery of high humidity this past summer.

Th only issue I read about is chlorosis in highly alkaline soil but if you already use sul-po-mag that may solve the problem. I had to use sulfur in one bed that I made pretty alkaline because I intended to grow herbs in it. I had to reverse the process when I changed that area into a rose garden.

So far (3 years) mine are doing just fine. I am in central OC. They get the same treatment as own-roots and the ones on Dr. Huey.

I checked my soil PH early this morning in the area I would plant the new roses, and it's 6.5. Clay soil. What's the preferred PH for multiflora rootstock?

Sonja

6.5 is perfect. That's what I have in most parts of my garden.

In general, Multiflora rootstock is NOT desirable in California. It seems to have a reasonably limited life span here.

We've grown MANY Hortico and Pickering plants on Multiflora.
As JD says, chlorosis problems plague them.
We have also had annoying problems with multiflora rootstock suckering badly.
If you are going to do it, plant the roses low.
The plant can then transition to its own roots, as the multiflora falters.

Jeri

I don't recall any problems with multiflora, and no more chlorosis than roses on other rootstocks or even own-root. For examples: I have a David Austin, Leander shrub on multiflora, that is nearly 20 years old. We have to whack it down twice a year to a manageable 6 feet tall and it's rarely chlorotic. On the other hand, I have an own-root Salet growing next to Leander that is always horrendously chlorotic even though I give it extra fertilizer and iron. Golden Celebration on Dr. Huey and another own-root are both frequently chlorotic. I also have a 15-year old Elizabeth Taylor on multiflora that is 5 feet wide and 7 feet tall, so tall I have to use a long-handled pruning stick for climbers just to deadhead. Same for Andrea Stelzer on multiflora. Liz and Andrea rarely are chlorotic unless I neglect to fertilize for a long period of time.

Now I have to say that because it is so hot where I live and the soil is rather sandy, and I water daily in the summer, I do have to feed all my roses extra fertilizer during the summer. And lots, lots, lots of organic amendments. So it's possible that I feed my roses so much that most never get a chance to get chlorotic.

Why not give a couple a try? If the pH of your soil is 6.5, your conditions are very different from Jeri and Jim's. One thing that Multiflora does not like is hot roots, so don't leave the plants in pots. I am not a fan of adding magnesium to California soils. The routine addition of epsom salts or any other form of magnesium to California soils is unwise without a soils test. Many California soils are already high in magnesium. It is true that in So Cal some soils are also high in calcium. You cannot know without an understanding of your soils.

I don't think I'm going to be brave enough this year to try the multiflora. I was just about to place the order for them, but then I got to thinking that my roses are second in line to my plumerias. I'm going to wait for my existing roses to mature a little and then maybe I'll try out a few multiflora when I know I can keep a close watch on them. Call me a chicken. I think it's going to be another trip to Armstrongs Garden Center for local roses, though I'm really grumbling about their prices this year! Thanks to everyone for their input!!

Sonja

How much does Armstrong charges for a bare root? I am just curious...

Well, I'm in NORTHERN CA and I have tons of roses on Multiflora, many in pots. We get summer temps in the low 100's and they do just fine. I have a BERYL BACH I got from Pickering probably over 10 yrs ago, and that thing is an absolute monster. The canes are huge and the plant reaches well over 8ft with tons of blooms every yr. I have many other roses that are doing wonderfully well on Multiflora. I've had more suckering with DR HUEY than any other rootstock. The rootstock that I find isn't suitable for my climate is Fortuniana. I got 4 roses from Johnny Becnel Show Roses a few yrs ago, and they mildew worse than any other roses I have. And I don't spray.

I decided to go for it because I was tired of Virusy Dr. Huey plants that I had to eventually shovel prune. Palatine had clean plants that I could not find from own root nurseries. I planted them deep in soil that I made more acidic- like I do for the hydrangeas. So far so good. In the first year, they are doing well, even through the horrible heat we just had. If the plants will grow roots of their own, that will suit me just fine. Some grew faster than others. Some went into 15 gallon cans and are whopper sized plants. I do shade the can sides however so the roots don't get hot. I do this for all my potted roses regardless of rootstock type.

I would rather take a chance on a multiflora root dissapointment and hope I can salvage a virus free rose with some own root development than watch a lovely bush I love decline because of mosaic virus. Dr. Huey grows fantastic in my soil but I am not willing to spend money on plants I will have to yank just as they should be looking great.

I must also add that the family that runs Palatine is really nice and that the plants I recieved were the largest mail order bareroot roses I ever got.