Air compressor: Which to choose Oil filled or oil free design
adkinsca
15 years ago
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canguy
15 years agodavefr
15 years agoRelated Discussions
air compressor questions
Comments (7)Hey baymee and green valley. Thanks for your responses. If I were to buy a 5HP air compressor, do I need 220V to run it? Or is 110V good enough? I think I'll probably go with an oil one versus the oil-less, since from what I read, they are supposedly quieter. baymee - what brand name and model did you buy a few years back? LOL! Probably can't find one like it, but it sounds like a good one. green valley - So CFM is dependent upon the true "running HP" versus the peak HP claim. I see where you've dealt with a number of air compressors, so any recommendations for a specific brand or two given what I've described as to how I intend to you it? What does the gallon capacity really signify then? Do I interpret this to be "air pressure" that is stored and available for a period of time before the air compressor "kicks in" and replenished the used air pressure supply? If this is so, do I interpret this to mean the larger the gallon capacity, the potential longer period of time 'in between' the air compressor sucking in new air to be stored? I probably 'sound' silly here, but am trying to understand the process/functionality of how the air compressor actually works too. Thanks again for any and or responses/comments/attaboys and/or "you dummy"'s. :) Trust me, I'm thicked skinned. LOL! bbbbosox...See MoreAir Compressor/Nail Gun Combo
Comments (2)I'll just quote some replies on another forum: "What you need to do is decide which air tools you might possibly get in the future and then find out how many cfm or air they use. Most tool catalogs will have the information. If all you are going to use is nailers and small "impact" type tools, you will not need as big a compresser compared to what you will need to run an air sander or drill. I will tell you from experience that an air powered sander or grinder will eat up a lot of air and will need a fairly large compressor if it is going to run for any length of time. I have a 3 hp Sears at home and a 10 hp Curtis at the shop. The Sears one works ok with impact wrenches etc, but fire up the sander and it cannot keep up. The 10hp is a two stage and runs at a higher pressure. It will keep up with almost anything we have in the shop except for the bead blast cabinet. So it really depends on what tools you plan on using." "You can get by with a little 2 gal compressor from Lowes or Harbor Freight. Very light weight. Goes to about 120 psi. But it will cycle often. Will not push a paint sprayer or air wrench, but it will work fine for one nailer. Cost less than $100, sometimes around $75." "You have some basic choices. You can spend $100-160 and get a good quality oilless unit that will do all that you want it to do, be small and portable but still be somewhat loud. Bostich, PCable, etc. Or, you can spend $200-300 and step up to an oil-lube unit in a dual tank or single 4 gal tank design and get better durability and quite a bit quieter operation. Or, check out the Bostich compressor thread that mentions their TrimPro compressor which is super lightweight, quiet and will run trim nail guns and such for $150 or so. What ever you do - I highly suggest not getting the big mombo $200 Coleman type 4-6HP compressors that you see at SamsClub or HD or Lowes - you know, the 3-4' tall jobs... I did that at first, and they are not that great because they are super LOUD and take forever to fill up! My suggestion is to get a good brand small oil-lube compressor and stay away from large units or cheapo units like HF. There are a couple great deals going right now - one in particular is the Amazon clearance sale (check thread) where they are selling a Dewalt twin-stack oil lube with a 2" brad nailer for about $200 - wow - what a price! The brad nailer is worth $100. Also - Sam's Club is clearing out Bostich twin stack oil-lubes for $197 or so. Also a good deal is the Porter Cable twin nailer compressor combo for $175 at Amazon - although it's an oiless - so it'll be louder - it comes with two nailers that are worth a good $150 or so; makes the compressor seem pretty cheap. Either of these choices or their equivalant will handle roofing, framing, trimming, tires, rafts, some airtools and blow guns. Best possible choice for an all-around compressor. I have a friend who bought a HF compressor and that thing has never been right - don't low-rent this purchase and don't buy a husky, ridgid or craftsman - they are designed to be cheap - don't be fooled by the colors or the fancy features." "As others have said, the pancake will work fine for the amount of air you will need for nailers. If you want to get a brad and finish nailer, the porter cable set will be a pretty good deal for you. The pc brad nailer is a really nice gun, the finish nailer is solid not as good as the hitachi, and the set usually comes with a stapler or sander as a throw in. I think Amazon has the kit for $289 or so and they have been offering all kinds of discounts in the last month, $75 off $300 purchase, etc."...See Moregas in the oil of a Kohler engine
Comments (37)As far as changing the oil.............if you have already changed the oil and filter, and no additional gasoline has leaked into the engine.........no point in changing it again until just prior to storing at the end of the season of use. When you get ready to store the machine for winter, I suggest you add gasoline stabilizer to a tank of fresh fuel to "hold" the gas until spring. I recommend changing the oil as the very last action prior to placing the machine into storage. After you fill the engine with fresh oil, run the engine for about 5 minutes at max RPM. While the engine is still running, turn off the fuel shut off valve and let the engine run until it uses all the gas in the carb and quits. These are by no means a complete list of things you can do to protect the machine over winter, but these are related to the problem you just tackled....See MoreKobe Range Hoods - Baffles Vs Oil catchers, which one is better?
Comments (10)Baffles generally capture grease better than "oil cup" systems. In general, you need to disturb the airflow in some way to get the grease out, so apples-to-apples a baffle system will have a tiny bit less airflow than a system that takes out less oil; but often it isn't apples-to-apples. For odors, the "scent molecules" that are in the grease will come out as the grease comes out, but a lot are in free floating, so airflow is what you want. I don't think the difference between the two hoods is going to be noticeable without a flow meter. Personally, I'd get the baffles for the better grease extraction and ease of cleaning (pop them into the dishwasher)....See Morerustyj14
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