Hi,

Here's a link.

See the 4 drop downs for:

Selecting the file:

Holding the file:

Checking the result:

Lowering the depth gauge:

This shows sharpening with a file but is the same principle with any stone or sharpener.

https://www.stihl.com

If you're using cheap, soft steel chains, you're wasting your time.

eta: dirty wood will dull saw chains in short order.

thanks, but i got an electric sharpener. This one:

https://www.harborfreight.com/lawn-garden/outdoor-power-tools/chainsaws-chippers/chainsaw-accessories/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-63803.html

the controls let you advance and (using the brake handle) lock the chain in place. Once in place, it can be pulled into the grindwheel.

the wood is a felled tree in my yard; we've had several heavy rains, so it should be about as clean as it's going to get. (the trunk is elevated off the ground by the toppled roots and other pieces already cut.

I hand file 72 teeth. Three to five strokes per tooth and the I go to the next one. This takes me a leisurely 10 minutes. I file the rakers about three times per life of the chain. I cut mostly oak and some maple.

If you would look at the drop downs, it would give you a comparison to see if your cutter teeth are coming out right.

It doesn't matter what kind of sharpener you're using; if the angle of the tooth isn't right, or if you aren't making the edge of the tooth razor sharp and/or your depth gauge (rakers) are not the correct height in relation to the cutter, you can't expect it to cut properly.

It's a good idea to carry the proper file(s) with you because even with the best equipment, a light 'touch up' with a file every once in a while, makes the cutting a lot less work. Don't wait until the chain dulls completely before sharpening it.

You'll also want a depth gauge checker (shown in the drop downs) so you can file down the depth gauges to the proper height in relation to the cutter tooth. Too tall and it won't cut very fast, too short and the saw can get dangerous and stick or jump out of the cut.

You want nice big chips coming off the saw. If the chips are like saw dust, then somethings not right.

Using a chain saw is a skill that takes time to develop. It's always best to work with someone that knows the language before attempting this yourself. It's not something you want to learn the hard way.

I'm still a little suspect on the quality of your chain but if it's sharpened correctly, it should still cut good for at least a while before you have to stop for another sharpening.

Best wishes.

Bill

always_beezee,

we used to keep the rakers a bit on the short side, seemed to make the cutting go faster.

The little time it took to sharpen a saw, made it so much easier to cut.

Yes, a good sharp file of correct diameter for the tooth is standard operating procedure. ;-)

deserthawk,

Just to add, when you use that sharpener, don't let the tooth get so hot that it turns blue. Turning blue is a sign that the temper in the steel is degrading. This can lessen the hardness of the steel making a good chain inferior.

I'm still apparently doing something wrong.

I'm definitely not blueing the metal.

Here's an 11 second video. A hint of ozone smell just as i released it.

mov format

mp34 format

i'm coming to suspect the chain, as well. Is there a place out there comparing hardness, etc., of varous brands?

it came in a two pack; one of the depth gauge (?) is slightly bent on the first chain, so it sticks, and i'll sacrifice another to replace one with the same problem on the original chain that came with the kobalt saw. I haven't used a link tool in 35 years, but i recall it as rather straightforward.

I've never used an electric chain sharpener but your video seems pretty aggressive grinding for one tooth. And It's almost like you're grinding down into the chain itself (too low) instead of the upper cutting part of the tooth. It'd hard to say without being there.

A cylindrical file makes a hollow or concave face on the tooth. Your video almost appears to show the wheel is putting a flat surface on the tooth or it not touching the right part of the tooth at all.

You only need to file or grind enough material off to bring the tooth back to a sharp edge.

Are you sure the grinder is adjusted properly so it contacts the tooth at the right angle?

You should check where you bought the sharpener to see if it's adjusted correctly.

And no matter how good the cutter teeth are sharpened, if the rakers are near the same height as the cutter teeth, you won't get much cutting done because the rakers will ride in the bottom of the cut and not allow the cutters to drop down far enough to find wood.

Wish I be there to check things over. :-)

Here's a video about Chicago chain saw sharpener:

Note the depth stop control that keeps you from going too deep into the chain and how little you have to touch the chain with the grinder wheel to get a new edge (like all videos, the guy talks a lot, so it gets a little drawn out). ;-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch:

deserthawk,

I agree with BillMN in that you are too aggressive with the grinder. In the video that BillMN provided, the gentleman is grinding with very short bursts (half second or less). Depth control was good (not cutting into the link). I would suggest that you readjust your grinder and take your time.

Your rakers in your video look high compared to the teeth but seeing it in person is different than a video or picture.

BillMN,

When I put a new chain on, the first thing I do is take 4-5 strokes with the file to the rakers. I like you, like a faster or I should say, a more aggressive cut.

Take care both of you, Bernie.

And just to add:

The less you grind to get a sharp edge, the longer your chain will last.

Once the cutter teeth are shortened back to where the little mark is on top of the tooth, it's time for new chain. Teeth that are too short can snap off during use and fly through the air at high speeds.

Always use the proper recommended safety equipment when using a chain saw.

Go as far as the dullest cutter requires then make the rest match that its sharpened when the smooth wear mark is gone i was a professional sharpener for the local saw shop all hand file