What types (i.e. Kentucky Bluegrass, Fescue, Rye) of grass did you put down, and what have the temperatures been like? Did you overseed or install new, and do you see any green at all?

You put this seed down a week and a half ago in RI? If so then you are about two months too late. I am in coastal CT so our climates are probably similar, and soil temps right now are certainly not ideal for germination. A few things could have happened to your seed. No germination, which would be the best case scenario as it will hold over and germinate next spring (this is a long shot). Your seed probably germinated, but the low temps won't allow it to mature enough to make it through the winter (this is the most likely outcome). If you do see any germination, it's probably the perennial rye grass in your mix, the fine fescue and or KBG probably won't germinate. Just out of curiosity, were you watering your new seed at all?

That's what I was wondering about tiemco.

we are in Delaware and we just got a dusting of snow and the temps have been around 60F for a high although the nights have been in the 30s and 40s. I was watering the grass with a sprinkler until the snow/rain. I was wondering if it's a soil issue but I don't know if that's a problem or not. I was told back in early october to reseed now by a couple knowledgable experts. I was away just about all of september and then applied weed-b-gone which killed a lot of weeds off. So after that I reseeded. The weather for the last week in October has been about 10 degrees below normal.

I was told spring is the 2nd worst time to seed and fall is the best and I guess summer is the worst because I tried to plant some seed in summer and it won't grow even when I watered it. Is winter OK for seed to slowly germinate? When should I try to reseed in Spring? April? Thanks.

For Delaware the best time to seed is probably right around Sept 15, a little earlier for elite KBG that takes longer to develop, say Sept. 1. Second best would be a dormant seeding, that is applying seed in late Fall/early Winter right before the first major snow fall. The seed won't germinate until soil temperatures rise in spring, but you won't have to water very much unless it is a very dry season. Spring seedings are tough for a few reasons, but the earlier you can get seed down the better in spring. Once soil temps are above 50 (55 is better) then you can seed, but germination times will be longer than a fall seeding. Your grass will have to contend with weeds in spring, but using an herbicide called Tenacity can limit weed pressure. Seeding in summer is never recommended unless you live in an area where the growing season is very short, or you really know what you are doing and have a means of keeping the seed bed continually moist.

Thanks tiemco. I might put dowm some more seed down although I wonder if the seed I already have down will be OK. Maybe February is not a good time to reseed? I guess the cold for a few months helps it germinate. I am learning a lot here and appreciate the help. Can I use Tenacity or Weed-B-Gone while the grass seeds germinate? Grass seed is pretty expensive. Thanks.

February is a great month to dormant overseed. The seeds you put down in late October probably started to germinate, but I have a feeling they are not going to be viable next spring. Some seeds need a period of cold to become activated, like crabgrass. I have read that this isn't necessary with most turfgrass seed, although it won't hurt it. Seeds are temperature and water sensitive. If you put seeds out (cool season grass) and the soil temps are below 50 degrees, they aren't going to germinate. If you put seeds out above 50 degrees, with no water, they won't germinate. Only when the two variables are right, then you will get germination. A seed that has germinated isn't guaranteed to develop into a mature plant if conditions don't allow it. Grass generally needs 6-8 weeks of growth before the first frost to make it through the winter. Weed B Gone shouldn't be used on any new grass until it has been mowed a few times, but Tenacity can be used on new turf. With all herbicides be sure to read and follow the label for best results.

tiemco thanks for taking the time to give me advice. I'm saving the comments on a word document so I don't forget. I'd like to try to turn my lawn around myself but it'll take a few years to get rid of the weeds and get new grass to grow.

No problem. Sometimes it's easier to kill everything in summer and start fresh in fall if there are too many weeds. Also it gives you time to get your soil in shape. You can't grow great grass with poor soil. If you are really serious about having a nice lawn, then I would recommend a soil test.

I'm not sure I have the money to do all that might be needed. I can imagine putting soil down and reseeding would be expensive and with my luck the seed wouldn't grow afterward and I'd have major erosion. I might put some soil down in the bare areas and reseed the entire lawn in February again. The neighbors have decent lawns so I don't think my soil is terrible. We seem to get a lot of moss growing on bare soil however and that prevents grass from growing.

I used to be in the camp of people who said "I'm sure my soil is fine, my grass looks OK" Then I renovated my lawn and it just wasn't performing very well. So I gave in and did two soil tests, total cost 40 bucks. Well it turns out my front yard had a pH of 5.5 and the back was at 4.4! In addition it was depleted of all macronutrients and some micronutrients as low pH soils often are. Well since then I have been working on the soil and the grass has responded (pic of it this summer in this thread http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/lawns/msg0621330425292.html). You cannot grow great grass in poor soil, and you will wasting money by trying to do so. You have moss problems, well guess what, moss generally grows in low pH soils with poor drainage (shade also helps moss thrive). Do yourself a favor, get a soil test. I recommend Logan Labs' basic soil test ($20). In terms of cost for a renovation, it's not much more, and you don't have to bring in new topsoil. I won't go into specifics here, but the extra expense is only that you will need double the seed of an overseed, and maybe some topdressing, and that's about it.

"get a soil test. I recommend Logan Labs' basic soil test ($20). "

Yes, that's pretty inexpensive. I will do it in after the holidays in January (before I reseed in February). I hope people can give me advice once I get the results. Thanks teimco.

It's very difficult to do when the ground is frozen, so either do it now, or after the spring thaw.