OK, well your pH is low, but that's easier to fix than high pH, and I would wait a month between lime applications, longer if you don't get much rain. Nitrogen is an easy fix with fertilizer, but I would definitely wait till early fall, when it is cooler, because adding a lot of nitrogen now can increase fungal disease incidence. I used the Scott's fungal control and I still got brown patch, but only on my spring seeded tall fescue. Don't do any seeding until late summer or early fall. I know Georgia is a lot hotter than CT, but you are in the mountains, so I assume your climate is cooler than say Atlanta. Regardless, seeding in the summer is a losing proposition, get your lawn in the best possible shape to seed in the early fall. When you do overseed, pick the cultivars that do the best in your area, check the ntep trials for this info.

>>are there problems with mixing too many different seed types in a lawn? If you match color and growth rates, not really. Yes, they'll compete. That's actually a good thing--the one that does best in a given area will dominate. If the colors are the same, and they grow at the same rate, you'll notice--but you won't care. :) My initial lawn, from the builder, was a tri-mix of KBG, fescue (several kinds) and rye. Over time, the KBG dominated due to my care regimen and the fact that the lawn is pretty much full sun all the time. It was never obvious that there was competition going on, and never a problem. >>Are there any organic fertilizers you would recommend for helping to change soil structure compacted soils? Like Yardtractor said, ALL organics will help change the soil structure over time. Without exception. However, some are better than others because you can drop more of them without experiencing problems like the reek of decay. Soybean meal is a great feeding for the lawn, requiring about 15 pounds per thousand square feet four times per year to give a perfect feeding. However, dropping sixty pounds per year isn't going to change the soil at any fantastic rate. The equivalent feeding using cracked corn or corn meal (I prefer cracked corn as it flows through my broadcast spreader more easily) is 60 pounds per thousand square feet. At 240 pounds per thousand per year, it'll change the soil profile much faster. Corn is one of those things you can also pour on, unlike most other organics. One huge source of (frequently ignored) organic material is mulch-mowing all fall leaves. I don't get so many, so I import them from known-good lawns without problems to the tune of 100 pounds per thousand square feet per year. You have leaves in plenty right there. My top flight year (year 2 of organics, after the soil had built up bacteria and fungi to support rapid decay) was over 1,300 pounds per thousand square feet, for a grand total of 37 pounds of nitrogen equivalent per thousand that year. Do that with synthetics and you just sterilized the soil--probably for at least a year. Organically? The lawn flourished, as did the gardens, everything was deep green and grew like mad. Doing that took me from an organically tapped soil in 2005 to a soil with 14% organic matter this year--and most years featured nowhere near the application that one year did!

OK, so seedlings are coming up everywhere. Moreso in the shady areas which were seeded with a "Rebel shade grass" mixture of fescue. I haven't done anything about the no walking on grass issue besides trying to walk as softly and with as little shear force as possible. I am still moving sprinklers, but I try to walk as little as possible on the grass. I will let you know how it goes and should be posting pics to keep you updated.

Alexh has some good points. Definitely get a soil test. I wouldn't waste the 6 dollars on a kit though. Soil testing is very cheap at most Universities/soil labs. One of the best ones it at Umass (13 bucks). Logan Labs in Ohio charges 20, but they have a very good test as well. If you have hard compacted soil you definitely need to loosen it up. Sure tilling the top six inches would be great, but it would require someone with a tractor and a box blade if you have a large yard, and it needs to be done correctly or you will end up with a lumpy yard with many high and low spots. There are ways to add organic matter and condition your soil without heavy machinery. Core aeration is a start. Also treating your yard with soil conditioners containing Yucca extract over time will loosen up your soil. If your soil is high in magnesium and low in calcium then your soil will be tight (this will be revealed by your soil test). Organic matter will feed the soil microbes and make the soil looser, hold water better, and you grass will do much better. Periodic applications of organic fertilizer such as compost, Milorganite, soy bean meal, corn meal, alfalfa meal, etc is a great way to raise your OM levels. One thing you didn't mention, but probably played a big part in the death of your grass was fungal disease. If you have hot humid summers then fungus is always a threat. I live in CT and I have fungal issues. Even the best cultural practices doesn't guarranty you won't be affected. There are some natural products like Serenade and Actinovate that you can use prophylactically to prevent disease. Corn meal applications in spring are also supposed to help prevent fungal outbreaks. If you do get disease a good fungicide is usually the only cure. Heritage G is a very good one, Eagle is also good. You can find those at Lesco. As alexh pointed out your grass needs water. In my opinion it's the most important thing to keeping grass happy, especially in the hotter months. It's important to remember not to water at night in the summer as that will keep the grass moist for a long period of time, allowing fungal disease to flourish.