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Slit/power seed vs aerate & drop seed

13 years ago

I'm going to be laying seed over some rounded up areas of dead weeds (70%) and some healthy fescue (30%). I have already cut the grass rather low, but not the lowest just yet. This weekend I plan on cutting the grass to the lowest setting, bagging all of the waste, and planting some seed.

My conundrum:

Should I use a product such as the Lawn Revitalizer, which is a power seeder (much like a slit seeder) - OR - should I get an aerator to aerate and then use my spreader to drop seed on top of that? I will be applying Lesco starter fertilizer after I spread my Lesco fescue blend. I don't plan on putting down any top dressing unless if anyone here can make a case for it.

So power seed or aerate and drop seed?

Thanks!

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Comments (5)

David Moore zone 6a nw new jersey
13 years ago
I would power seed for best results.
I assume your lawn is in shade as you are using nothing but fescue bleands?
drnuke
Original Author
13 years ago
There is only one part of my lawn that is full sun. Why? What should I do for the full sun area?
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I'm in central Jersey as well. About two years ago I did the same but included power raking as well. It included seeding with TTTF and a water holding mulch. For a little smaller piece of land it cost me $600. Results were great, so it was worth it. All depends on the landscaper you use. Capt Tom
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There's a machine called a slit seeder that creates slits in the soil to improve the contact. I haven't used one, but from what I've read, many people use it to create the slits, but not to drop the seeds because they sometimes do that part poorly. If you use one, it's best to make two passes, with the second at 45 degrees to the first (not 90, since that can produce a "checkerboard" effect). Using a 45 degree angle supposedly tricks the eyes into missing the pattern. I would not do both core aeration and slit seeding. If you core aerate, you're exposing a bunch of soil and the goal is to improve the seed-to-soil contact.
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Well, I did a re-seed of my backyard that dogs and drought had messed up. I mowed low, then rented a Bluebird seeder. Rental places are pretty loose with the terms they use. The one I rented was like a flange type dethatcher with a seed hopper on top. It also has a rubber skirt at the back taht helps cover up the seed. What I would call a "real" slit seeder has a disc to open the soil and a tube that drops seed into each furrow (slit).I looked for a true slit seeder to rent but could not find one here. But, to answer your question, with that one, I ran it over the yard about three or four times in different directions without seed in it set at its deepest setting. This loosened up my soil on top which was pretty packed. I then put seed in it, raised the depth about halfway and the seed came up perfectly. In little rows, I might add. Hope this helps your decision making.
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The attached drop spreaders seldom work properly so I don't use them. I broadcast the seed, then use the slit seeder. The depth of the slicing blades should be adjusted so that they will cut into the soil even in low spots. Ideal depth is 1/4" but 1/4" to almost 1/2" will work. If you have soil that is so uneven that you are cutting 1/2" or more into high spots and making no cut into low spots, you need to level the lawn or not use a slit seeder. Setting the depth too deep can impair seed germination and make operating the machine harder. At the proper depth, the blades will help pull the machine forward but not so much that you need to hold the machine back. Almost all are not self propelled and are a bear to push up hill, so operation at a diagonal or parallel on slopes is a must. They make for very good results with KG, not so much with larger seed grasses. This post was edited by yardtractor1 on Thu, Aug 21, 14 at 13:53
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David Moore zone 6a nw new jersey
13 years ago
kentucky blue grass, or scotts makes a mix for just sunny areas.
tiemco
13 years ago
Please tell us what kind of turf seed you are planting. I assume you are using TTTF. This is the best choice since it will blend with your existing lawn, and can tolerate both full sun and moderate shade. It is also the best cool season grass for the transition zone where you live. KBG in Tennessee is possible, but it's an uphill struggle. Also if you do go with KBG there are some cultivars that do better in your area, and I can almost guarantee you won't find any of them in a big box store or bag put out by Scotts. Check the NTEP trials to see which ones perform best in your region if you want to go that route.
gsledge
13 years ago
aeration and broadcast seed. Make sure u run the aerating machine like a crazy person as if u tear it up now and can get that seed in the holes and nooks and cranies you'll be happy in a few weeks! Also, the aeration allows water to seep in the ground so much better and if u do this once a yr or 2 it fights compaction!

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